Which Brand Blades?

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Forum topic by DavidNJ posted 01-21-2013 07:45 PM 2666 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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389 posts in 1956 days

01-21-2013 07:45 PM

I’ve been primarily considering Freud and Infinity, with Forrest always in the background.

For the miter saw, in another thread, it appears that Infinity or Forrest would be a better choice than Freud. However, what about for the table saw?

Note: I primarily use to Freud Diablo blades now: a 24T ATB ripping blade and a 90T Hi-ATB cross cutting blade. The Diablo blades have Freud’s non-stick coating. Note: that coating sometimes comes off on the wood; the first time I saw it I thought I was cut and bleeding.

I’m considering 3 blades:

24T Flat tooth ripping blade

40T Hi-ATB general purpose blade

80T Hi-ATB plywood, veneer, and crosscutting blade

The specs between the two brands are effectively identical, with 2°. All of the Freud blades have their non-stick coating. The 40T Infinity has a non-stick coating, the rest are nickel plated. The Infinity coated blades are ground on the arbor center removing any slight regularity from the coating.

The 24T and 80T blades are virtually the same price between brands in full kerf; the 40T Infinity is $45 more than the Freud: $110 vs. $65.

In thin kerf the 24T and 40T are $15 less combined for both brands. However, Infinity doesn’t have a thin kerf in the Hi-ATB 80T; Freud’s thin kerf is $19 less. All three blades from Freud in thin kerf are about the same price as Forrest Woodworker 80T Hi-ATB, $154 vs. $155.

Which blades would you recommend? Which kerf or combination of kerfs would you recommend?

10 replies so far

View RogerM's profile


792 posts in 2362 days

#1 posted 01-21-2013 08:42 PM

Buy the Forrest Woodworker II (standard kerf) and quit worrying about which blades to buy. This one will do almost anything you need and do it well.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

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792 posts in 2362 days

#2 posted 01-21-2013 08:52 PM

Also, see for a similar thread.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View HoosierDude's profile


48 posts in 2978 days

#3 posted 01-21-2013 09:14 PM

I’ve got a Forrest Woodworker II (standard kerf) in my table saw. It does an all around great job. If you cut a lot of plywood, use a zero clearance insert and that cures the cross-grain splintering problem inherent with plywood. The only time I ever change the blade is to clean it or use a dado blade. :)

-- Paul Lyons

View DavidNJ's profile


389 posts in 1956 days

#4 posted 01-21-2013 11:44 PM

Roger, Forrest sells their very expensive blade in quite a few configurations: 30T, 40T, 48T…there is also a 20T. It comes full kerf, thin kerf, and ultra-tin (.080) kerf. Woodcraft also has a

Note the 48T is a 25°ATB, the 30T and 40T are 15°ATB. It appears Forrest has changed the fundamental design. Forrest recommends raising the blade for ripping, using the 30T for thicker rips, etc.

The comparison with the WWII was done in another thread. The overwhelming consensus was that the Super General and Premium Fusion were equal or superior to the Forrest WWII (now that is throwing gas on a fire). This was also indicated in the Wood Magazine Retest:

Price would favor the Freuds, at least for the 40T Hi-ATB: $60-65 for the Premium Fusion vs $100-110 for the Super General and $118-$140 for the Woodworker II.

I’m not saying the Forrest blades are bad, just that their are comparable blades for less. And as a poster in then link you posted said, these are combo blades that sacrifice a little on both sides; a Hi-ATB veneer tooth with a ripping hook and not quite ripping gullet. I will use it for ripping thinner stock (3/4”-1” and under) and some crosscutting.

View hokieman's profile


182 posts in 3716 days

#5 posted 01-22-2013 02:06 AM

I must have gotten a lemon woodworker II blade. Everyone raves about them but mine has not impressed me. I get all kinds of saw marks and a lot of the reviews say it is close to a jointer finish,

View knotscott's profile


7980 posts in 3338 days

#6 posted 01-22-2013 10:44 AM

I doubt you’ll find many folks who’ve tried all of them, so opinions will likely be based on how people feel about what they know. The blades you’re comparing are very close in design, and I’m sure they’d all be very difficult to tell apart based on the cuts when comparing the same style of blade for the same cuts. You should find the Super General and Fusion will be better at fine crosscuts and ply, and leave a cleaner ripping edge than the 40T WWII, but the WWII will be a bit more efficient in ripping thicker materials. Infinity and Forrest are family owned American business, Freud is part of a conglomerate. Infinity’s owner is the son of Carlo Venditto who was part of Freud, CMT, and Jesada earlier in his career. Infinity and Freud blades are made in Italy, Forrest is made in the US. Forrest will be the most expensive of those, but I don’t believe they’ll offer a performance advantage.

Overall I’ve been more impressed with the 6 or 7 blades I’ve used from Infinity than the 8 or 9 I’ve used from Freud, and the 4 I’ve used from Forrest….every single Infinity blade or bit I’ve used has been really impressive. I’d go with full kerf for your saw….switching between kerfs will cause the cursor to deviate from the zero reference, and will need to be addressed every time you switch kerfs. Buy from whichever company you’re most intrigued by…they’re all good companies with good products.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View RogerM's profile


792 posts in 2362 days

#7 posted 01-22-2013 06:47 PM

David, Understand what you are saying. One other factor which, in my opinion, puts Forrest above most others is the carbide that they use which tends to stay sharp a very long time. I cut a lot of hardwood with mine and can go for as long as one to two years between sharpenings. I know of no other blades that exhibit this kind of performance.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View Woodbum's profile


806 posts in 3028 days

#8 posted 01-22-2013 07:39 PM

IMHO Forrest WWII blades are the highest VALUE blades that are available. Not the lowest price, just the highest value in a combination blade. Their dedicated rip blades are outstanding, as is their Dado King 8” set. They run true, stay sharper longer and Forrest’s sharpening service is very reasonably priced when they do finally need sharpening. Plus they are made in America by the Forrest family. I am sure the Freud and Infinity blades are good and lower priced, but I had a Freud with the gimmicky red teflon coating that ended up chipping off, no thanks twice. As always my advice is to buy the very best that you can afford, even if it means foregoing the purchase until you have saved up to make it.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View Darell's profile


434 posts in 3557 days

#9 posted 01-22-2013 07:58 PM

I just bought the Freud LU79r010 plywood blade for my tablesaw. Loved it so much I bought the Freud LU79r070 for my circular saw. No chipout from either blade. And, I’ve never had any red bleed off on my wood. I have a Forrest WWII that I’m not impressed with at all. The first WWII I got left edges that looked rough sawn. Sent it back and they replaced it with one that cut smoother but still not up to snuff. It was difficult to push the wood through the blade. Sent it back for sharpening and they finally got it right. Sort of. There was no charge for what ever it was they did. It still is not the equal of the Saw Stop blade that came with my saw or my Freud LU83r010. I hate to say that about an American made product but I have not been impressed with my experiences with Forrest blades. I guess it’s like anything out there. Some love one thing and others something else.

-- Darell, Norman, Ok.

View Earlextech's profile


1160 posts in 2653 days

#10 posted 01-22-2013 08:41 PM

Forrest hands down. Spend the money and you’ll never have a problem with them. A mediocre saw with a great blade cuts great, a great saw with a mediocre blade cuts mediocre.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

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