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Technique question: How to rip very thin board

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Forum topic by SomeClown posted 584 days ago 1169 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SomeClown

63 posts in 1613 days


584 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: technique help table saw rip jig

I have a quick question on technique that I’m sure is simple, but I haven’t figured out how to do it safely yet. I have a bunch of 3/4” pine boards I ripped down to 2” wide to use for some quick trim on my old built-in workbenches in the garage. 3/4” is a little thick for my liking in this case, so I’d like to rip the 3/4” in half. When I looked at it, and tried setting it up a couple of different ways on the table saw however, I couldn’t figure out how to do it in a way that made me feel safe. Here’s what I did:

(1) I first removed the blade guard and put in the riving knife so I could get the fence close enough.
(2) Then I stared at the whole thing for a while, finally realizing that my push stick was nearly 3/4” itself and so wouldn’t work well.
(3) Then I went to bed and now I’m posting here. :)

Thanks, everyone!

-- There are 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.


13 replies so far

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3334 posts in 1446 days


#1 posted 584 days ago

I usually resaw at the bandsaw. Then send the strips through the planer to clean up the faces.
If I didn’t have a bandsaw, I would set up a featherboard and cut 1” into one edge. Then flip the board end-for-end and complete the cut. This way your pushstick will be clear of the blade.
The faces will still need to be run through the planer.

Good luck

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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lew

10002 posts in 2388 days


#2 posted 584 days ago

I have ripped material by doing about what you have done. Just raise the blade up until it is just a hair over 1” (for 2” wide material) Run the piece thru the saw. Flip it over (end for end) and run it thru again. Your push stick should still work OK.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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SomeClown

63 posts in 1613 days


#3 posted 584 days ago

Yeah, after dust collection a bandsaw will be my next purchase more than likely. But, right now I have a nice, new saw, a fine homebuilt router table, and a large collection of essentially standard job-site tools. The Freud thin-kerf blade on the table saw makes a more beautiful cut than comes from the lumberyard!

At this point I’m thinking maybe a featherboard on the top, and a really thin piece of wood for the push stick might do something for me.

UPDATE Just saw the post from lew. Maybe I’ll try that tonight.

-- There are 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3378 posts in 1603 days


#4 posted 584 days ago

I would not set the blade height quite so high. I think it is better to leave a thin strip connected down the middle so you don’t have loose pieces to deal with.

You can snap the last 1/16” by hand or run your pocket knife down the middle to pop it apart after sawing.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Jeff in Huntersville's profile

Jeff in Huntersville

399 posts in 1827 days


#5 posted 584 days ago

Use a sacrifical push stick. Allow the blade to cut it until your strips are through the blade.

View SomeClown's profile

SomeClown

63 posts in 1613 days


#6 posted 584 days ago

See, this is why I love this site. No matter the question, I get a lot of fairly quick and useful responses. So much to learn, but you guys make it fun!

-- There are 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

962 posts in 1323 days


#7 posted 584 days ago

I will attempt to shoot a picture of my push stick tonight and post it for you. It has a replaceable 1/4” blade that works great for your situation.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112015 posts in 2209 days


#8 posted 584 days ago

Here’s the safe way to do it.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19940

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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SomeClown

63 posts in 1613 days


#9 posted 584 days ago

a1Jim: Nice setup, but I’m trying to rip the other edge. In your pictures there, take the wide board there and stand it on it’s narrow side and re-saw it. So, I have a 2” wide board, 3/4” thick. It’s not the 2” I need to rip, it’s the 3/4” part. So I’ll end up with a bunch of 2” x 3/8” (minus saw cut-out) strips.

-- There are 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.

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a1Jim

112015 posts in 2209 days


#10 posted 584 days ago

SC
That’s what that jig does is cut the thin strip on the fall off side of the saw bald(no kick black) .you set the jig to the thickness you want and keep moving the fence over so that your wood touches the jig set at 3/4” . of course if you only start with 2” boards you need a good push stick.

Just read your post again.Are you trying to resaw(1/2 of the thickness of the wood) into 3/4” strips?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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SomeClown

63 posts in 1613 days


#11 posted 584 days ago

a1Jim The wood dimensions are 2” x 3/4” x whatever length. I want 2” x 3/8” x whatever length.

-- There are 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

907 posts in 657 days


#12 posted 584 days ago

I just make a 1/4” sacrificial push stick out of plywood. But I don’t like the kind that are simply a notch in the end. I make mine so the notch is set back from the leading end by several inches. Gives a lot more control. I use them until they’re worn out. On a really thin cut, the push stick actually gets shaved by the blade a little. Your 3/8” (minus blade thickiness) shouldn’t be a problem done this way.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3378 posts in 1603 days


#13 posted 584 days ago

You set the blade at 15/16 high and 3/8 from the fence, then push your 2” tall strip through.

Then turn it over, keeping the same side against the fence, and push it through again and the blade will never touch the push stick.

It will be at least an inch below it at all times.

And there will be a 1/8” strip of wood down the middle of the workpiece holding the two halves together.
On older saws this little strip also serves to keep the wood from pinching the blade but that function is handled by the riving knife in your case.

This strip is easy to snap into. You can set the blade slightly higher to make this strip a little smaller if that separation part is too difficult; or slice it apart with a knife or hand saw if you prefer.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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