LumberJocks

Euro Hinges - Part II

« back to Woodworking Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by niki posted 85 days ago 132 views 1 time favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites
View niki's profile

niki

393 posts in 616 days


85 days ago

Good day

Today, I would like to share with you my drilling methods.
I never used the Hand Drill method but I added it just in case somebody doesn’t have Drill Press or Drill Stand.

The 35mm hole should be drilled at 3~6mm from the door edge.

As you will see, I’m drilling at 4mm (5/32”) from the edge but, you can use any other distance.
I found that, the 4mm dist. gives me good overlay with the 18mm (23/32”) thick cabinet walls but if you want to be on the safe side, you can choose 5mm (3/16”) that maybe will be better for 3/4” thick cabinet wall.

The bigger the hole distance from the edge, the bigger the “overlay”...in other words, if the 4mm dist. will give you a door that is flush with the cabinet wall, the 5mm will result in the door protruding 1mm out of the cabinet wall but, it can be adjusted very easy and, maybe it’s better to have some “playing distance”.

Just take a few scraps and experiment with both 4mm and 5mm and decide what you like more.

The 35mm hole should be drilled to at least 11mm (7/16”) depth but, I love it a little bit more and usually, I drill to 13mm (1/2”).

Regards
niki

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

View TomFran's profile

TomFran

2371 posts in 531 days


84 days ago

Great tutorial! Your methods are especially helpful for those who don’t have or can’t afford all the expensive gadgets.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

View niki's profile

niki

393 posts in 616 days


84 days ago

Thank you Tom

As you know me, I’m against buying jigs and fixtures as long as I can do it with cheap home-made or other ways.

And, also on “part III” – Door installation – I keep my word and do not use any jig.

For Pro’s that are working on “production line”, the story is different…there are many jigs including the “System 32” but, as my wife told me ones – “hey, it will be cheaper to buy the furniture” and she is correct…those expensive jigs are good only for one thing – concealed hinges installation – well, in average, I install 5~10 door a year…

Best regards
niki

View OutPutter's profile

OutPutter

234 posts in 527 days


84 days ago

Another presentation of the highest standards Niki, keep up the good work.
Thanks,

-- Jim

View TomFran's profile

TomFran

2371 posts in 531 days


84 days ago

”as my wife told me once – “hey, it will be cheaper to buy the furniture”

That’s a fact! Unless you’re doing this everyday, or have an unlimited budget, you could go broke buying every new jig or tool that comes along.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

You must be signed in to reply.

Your Online Shop - Your Support Is Greatly Appreciated - Your Woodworking Showcase - 3 Ways To Help, Financially - Your Woodworking Community

Woodworking StoreApparel StoreMake a Donation
Bookmark And Share This Page
  • View all advertisers
  • Advertise with us

DISCLAIMER: All views and comments posted by members are not necessarily those of LumberJocks.com or of those working on the site.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase