best handplane

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Forum topic by airman posted 580 days ago 1052 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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48 posts in 1843 days

580 days ago

The Wood Show will be here soon and I have almost convinced myself to buy a good hand plane. Any thoughts as which one it should be? I’m not necessarily talking brand as much as which model. All suggestions appreciated

18 replies so far

View Alexandre's profile


1417 posts in 818 days

#1 posted 580 days ago

Depends… A #4 Lie Nielsen brass is my dream…
with a pm-v11 blade.

-- My terrible signature...

View Loren's profile


7400 posts in 2275 days

#2 posted 580 days ago

Among bench planes, a fine #4 is a nice thing
to have as it used for final surfacing. The heavier
castings in premium planes add mass and the
thicker irons help make fine cuts. More
concentrated mass helps a plane take finer


View Francisco Luna's profile

Francisco Luna

936 posts in 2021 days

#3 posted 580 days ago

Low angle, bevel up Jack plne with 25, 38, 50 degrees and toothed blades.

-- Nature is my manifestation of God. I go to nature every day for inspiration in the day's work. I follow in building the principles which nature has used in its domain" Frank Lloyd Wright

View MonteCristo's profile


2094 posts in 816 days

#4 posted 579 days ago

Lee Valley planes are good value. They are way better than big box junk and not as expensive as Lie-Nielsen. The latter are usually ranked tops among the widely available ones but they ain’t cheap ! Don’t go cheaper than Lee Valley as there is nothing more frustrating to use than a cheap plane !

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View rockindavan's profile


283 posts in 1263 days

#5 posted 579 days ago

If you don’t have a block plane, thats your best bet. I have the Veritas NX60 which is a marvelous piece of work. My brother has the DX60 which lacks the rust resistance but he prefers the patina.

View sikrap's profile


1001 posts in 1986 days

#6 posted 579 days ago

It depends greatly on what you want to do with it. A good block plane is almost a necessity. In that vein, the Lee Valley low angle w/adjustable mouth is a fantastic plane. If you can afford it, the Lie Nielsen rabbeting block plane is also a fantastic tool. If you’re looking at bench planes, its really dependent on what you want it for.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View exelectrician's profile


1528 posts in 1054 days

#7 posted 579 days ago

A refurbished Bedrock eagerly won with crazy bidding on ebay, will be your pride and joy for as long as you have it. I love to do the refurb part so saving a bunch in the process. Either way the plane becomes part of you with the sweat equity and care and attention to every detail.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View PurpLev's profile


8476 posts in 2276 days

#8 posted 579 days ago

is this for actual use or just to “have”?

if it’s just to “have” than – any plane might do.

if it’s for actual use – than if you don’t have any hand planes a block plane would be a good place to start. any other hand plane sort of relies on yet another plane to work together (jointer + finish for example), but a block plane is very versatile and can be used in conjunction to machine work, as well as hand tool work (chamfering, end grain, cleaning up, rabbeting, etc)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View airman's profile


48 posts in 1843 days

#9 posted 579 days ago

I plan on using it mainly for getting a straight edge and for smoothing. Is a block plane still a “best” bet and if so which one?

View JayT's profile


2179 posts in 838 days

#10 posted 579 days ago

getting a straight edge and for smoothing

I’d be looking at a #5 then. It is long enough for some short jointing and still able to work as a smoother, as well.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View Don W's profile

Don W

14845 posts in 1195 days

#11 posted 579 days ago

Getting a straight edge on what? Typically a joiner is for getting straight edges (a #7 or #8). A smoother (#4 +/-) is for smoothing, and a block plane is for detail work, rounding edges, fitting joints etc.

I typically recommend starting with a good block, then move to a #4.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. -

View OnlyJustME's profile


1562 posts in 1004 days

#12 posted 579 days ago

then again Paul Sellers uses a Stanley #4 size for just about everything. I would also recommend a nice #5 a.k.a. Jack plane though. It’s not called a Jack plane for nothing(jack of all trades). A jack plane (usually around 14” in length) with a small block plane would be a good start. whether you want to go vintage and rehab/tune it up or brand new is up to you. I like to save a few $$ and spend some time tuning up a vintage plane and getting to know it better. Of course i can’t afford the good new ones either but that’s besides the point. lol

-- In the end, when your life flashes before your eyes, will you like what you see?

View racerglen's profile


2293 posts in 1408 days

#13 posted 579 days ago

Love the thought Alexandre, a L/N with a L/V, Veritas blade….....................

-- Glen, Vernon B.C. Canada

View Kimchi4u's profile


18 posts in 623 days

#14 posted 579 days ago

The best hand plane is the one you’re most comfortable using.

-- Project Coordinator at Nord Alta Construction

View Manitario's profile


2300 posts in 1510 days

#15 posted 579 days ago

If I had to limit to one hand plane, I’d buy a bevel up #5 from Lee Valley. I have used it for everything from dimensioning to final smoothing. It also is easy to get a couple of different blades with different blade angles to work figured wood. That said, if I was just buying a new dedicated smoother I’d go with a Lie-Nielson #4 or 4 1/2.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

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