Making an oil and beeswax finish

Hello Rick;
—-just noticed this question you’ve put up, as I was surfing around in the middle of writing a blog//story only to realize I now need to go and create some more photos for my story….LOL.

First question I would have to ask is; ”what is the recipe that you are using?”

Next I’m wondering what you mean when you say that you checked it this morning and the mixture had ‘solidified’. In my way of working a finish into the wood, (boiled linseed oil and beeswax) I would add that this is a ‘hand rub finish’ and that the lesser you apply is the best way to go….and then comes more of many lesser coats also. When you speak of ‘solidify’ I must admit that that makes me want to ask as to how thick was the coat you put on, was the application done by hand and rag and then did you come back and remove any extra finish//residue that had not as yet soaked into the wood….say after 20-30 minutes or so?

While I use boiled linseed oil and beeswax for a wood finish, I must admit that I’ve never had it ‘solidify’ on me yet….since what remains after the excess is wiped off, is only whats all-ready now absorbed into the wood.

I will admit that I have had the residue become ‘gummy’ and take weeks to dry when I one time put this mixture on too thick and did not re-move the over-excess.

Hope this helps some….and if not, well write some more and we’ll see what else is happening.

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://rusticwoodart.tumblr.com/

I am using equal parts of turpentine,beeswax, and blo. The recipe called for the turpentine and beeswax to be combined after shaving the beeswax. The concept is that the turpentine will dissolve the beeswax overnight. When i checked the mixture this morning it was solid. I got the recipe from Woodsmith magazine.
I have not used it on anyhthing yet.

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

Hello Rick;
I’m not sure about the recipe there, as I’ve not done the mix that way. I would suggest shaving the beeswax and then combing along with the gum turps or mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil….but what I’m not seeing here is the next step! Try setting the mixture in a window where the sunlight is going to cast it’s rays upon it (and yes this make take some time for the mixture to dissolve)....or if you in more of a hurry, you might try my next step.

Take a large pan and fill with some water (paying attention that you do not float the can in the water) and place on a stove, do not bring the water to the point of boil, but now place the mixture in a smaller can and place inside the pot of water that is being heated. Care-fully stir the mixture, paying attention so as to not splash the mixture outside of can and onto the stove. Now when the mixture is dissolved, you can apply the warmed and dissolved mixture to the wood with a small rag and after letting sit for 20-30 minutes, be sure and wipe off all excess mixture that has not soaked into the wood.

Remember that when applying the wax mixture, lesser is better and then do multiple coats.

Here is a picture of a table I completed for a show back last April, where I used boiled linseed oil and beeswax on a curly maple top. The legs are white oak done up with multiple coats of shellac.

Again….I hope this helps some, and if you still having an issue with the mixture be-coming solid, ask some more and we will try and explore further. I really believe though that the problem//opportunity is in the understanding that the mixture needs some warmth to it, in order to get the wax work-able as a liquid. If one is not wanting to use the sun and a window or a stove top, they also sell glue pots which work safe also. I might add that in the winter time I also use the top of one of my wood stoves to heat the mixture up into a more work-able liquid.

Once again….;

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://rusticwoodart.tumblr.com/

I used to make beeswax/linseed oil/turpentine and it always solidified, especially in cold weather. It should be slightly soft. In hot weather, its’ soft.
I switched to a different recipe, 1 parts coconut oil to 5 – 6 parts beeswax. When its’ cold, I do 5 or less parts of beeswax. When hot, I go more towards 6 parts. I got this recipe from a local beekeeper as a safe finish for my daughter’s toys and furniture.

ok thanks Frank that helps..

I will give that a try cmaeda next time

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

Well, I am trying out the mixture. I stirred it and some beeswax was still solid, but not as bad, it seems to be doing ok.

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

Frank has given you some good direction.
So Rick- What kind of furniture do you plan to apply it on??
I asked about this same type of formula on another forum and the majority of the responses were less then positive. Basically I was told by a bunch of people, that the amount of protection is so minimal that its not worth bothering with all the mixing. I abanded the recipe so i cannot help you with your problems.
I have gotten into doing some rocking chairs and would love to find a durable finish that would also give that
hand rubbed, satiny feel.

Dave

I am not making furniture I am going to put it on some toys and games that I make

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI