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Rigid 3660 blade alignment problem

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Forum topic by Calmari posted 451 days ago 494 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Calmari

6 posts in 1491 days


451 days ago

I am having problems getting my blade aligned square to the miter tracks on my Rigid 3660. I was swapping out my blade and noticed that the splitter wasn’t parallel with the blade, did a little more checking and found my blade was out of square with my miter tracks. It is absolutely kicking my butt trying to get this blade square. For this saw, squaring is done by adjusting the trunnion via a lever at the rear of the table which is supposed to move the back of the blade left/right. The problem that I am having is that when I adjust the lever it shifts not only back of the blade but the front as well.

I am using the combo square method Marc demonstrated in his T/S setup video. I set the square to just barely kiss the blade at the front, then take the same tooth to the back and check the distance and then adjust the trunnion at that point. When I get it adjusted in the back I check the front again and the front has shifted, probably 1/32 of an inch. I got the blade the closest I could and then tightened the trunnion bolts. Then it got interesting.

I went to check the blade bevel stops and couldn’t tilt the blade past about 15 degrees without it binding up. I put the trunnion roughly back to where it was before and was again able to tilt the blade. but the blade was back out of square.

At this point I am at a loss. I bought the saw used a couple of years ago off CL and hadn’t had any problems with it until now. Anyone happen to have any experience with this particular saw and can offer some advice?


8 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5135 posts in 1873 days


#1 posted 451 days ago

Table saw tuneup video

Sometimes it’s easier to do the alignment with the saw upside down…takes gravity out of the equation.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1683 posts in 1126 days


#2 posted 451 days ago

how many, and which ones of, the trunion bracket bolts (i believe there are 6) are you loosening to attempt the adjustment?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

863 posts in 2111 days


#3 posted 451 days ago

toolie’s question sounds like the key…

Found a copy of the manual for your saw here

Sounds to me like the eccentric on the rear center bolt is moving the entire trunnion assembly, front and back. If I was doing this, I would loosen the outside bolts on both the front and rear trunnions. I would loosen but leave the front center bolt fairly tight since the process seems to depend on pivoting around that bolt. Loosen the rear center bolt (where the adjustment lever is) but again, I would leave it fairly tight or it won’t hold where you adjust it until you can tighten the outside bolts again after adjusting.

My old 113 Craftsman saw doesn’t have that fancy lever to adjust the trunnion. It is basically “loosen the bolts, tap it with a block of wood” to align it. I found with this saw that loose and tight are relative terms. If I loosened the bolts too much then everything would shift as I tightened them again. Instead, I just loosened them a little (enough to allow the trunnion to move but still keep the trunnion tight against the table).

edit:
I am sorry. Reviewing the manual again, I may have front and back switched on the description above. Without having the saw in front of me, I can’t say for sure. I am sure you can figure that out.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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Calmari

6 posts in 1491 days


#4 posted 451 days ago

I loosened all 6 bolts then tried to set the distance from the insert side at the front of the blade to at least 1/8” per the manual. After that I tightened down the front center then went to the back for the adjustment.

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toolie

1683 posts in 1126 days


#5 posted 451 days ago

sounds like you are on your way.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Calmari's profile

Calmari

6 posts in 1491 days


#6 posted 451 days ago

Problem is that even following the manual and doing the adjustments the correct way I am still getting movement at the front of the trunnion that seems like it is making it impossible to get the blade trued up to the tracks. It also doesn’t explain why the rear bevel bracket is binding. I am going to head back out to the shop and look thru the manual and start over and see if something was missed. Since I didn’t assemble this I can’t vouch that it was done entirely correctly. Please keep the ideas coming and I will check back later.

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Calmari

6 posts in 1491 days


#7 posted 451 days ago

Got it aligned. Took the motor off to lessen the weight on the trunnion, took the outside bolts completely out and loosened up the centers quite a bit. Got the front locked down at 1/8” and tightened it all the way down and then made the rear adjustment and locked down the center there then put the outsides in and locked them down. Re-checked square and it was still dialed in.

Still had problems with it binding on tilt, so I ended up taking my Dremel and shaving down the areas where it was binding up, shot some Boshield in the runs and worked it back and forth several times with no problems.

Thanks to those that responded!

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

863 posts in 2111 days


#8 posted 450 days ago

Oh yeah! I removed the motor mount entirely when I adjusted my old 113. Mine was more of a clearance issue, though – I couldn’t get inside the cabinet to move the trunnions easily with the motor in the way. Once I had the trunnions aligned and tightened down I reinstalled the motor mount.

Glad you got it solved.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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