Finishes

Jacob This question hopefully is going to get a lot of responses. I use blond shellac on some items as a finish on others as a sealer before lacquer and staining. I color my shellac some times. I do not make bowls and utility items so do not use any oils. All my finishes are sprayed on. The exception now and again is wipe on polly applied with a piece of old
tee shirt normally 6 coats or more over a period of 4 days. Regards Tamboti

-- Africa is not for sissies

I use General Finish Wood Turners Finish. Water based-food safe- low odor. Love the stuff !!!!!

-- William from the oldest town in Texas

For things intended to be food safe, I use mineral oil and beeswax. I made my wife a rolling pin for Xmas and used Howard butcher block conditioner, which is a blend of mineral oil, beeswax and carnuba wax. I turned my first couple of bottle stoppers and used My land’s friction polish. I’m going to do a pair of goblets soon and ordered some Circa 1851 for those.

-- Rich;) -"Dada make a big mess?" "Yes Dada made a big mess."

Forgot I’ve also used Mahoney’s walnut oil. I’ve been wanting to try the General Finishes Turners Finish.

-- Rich;) -"Dada make a big mess?" "Yes Dada made a big mess."

If it will be used for food, three coats of mineral oil (second wrapped with Saran Wrap for 2 or 3 days).

For artwork I sometimes use multiple coats of CA glue (apply thin coats using a rag with the piece still on the lathe). Other times—off the lathe—I apply multiple coats of a mixture using varnish, mineral spirit, and occasionally some BLO. When using the homemade wiping varnish I apply a coat of warmed bees wax mixed with kerosene when I’m done to give the piece a special feel when touched or, commonly known as the hand. It takes a few days, but the smell of kerosene does go away.

If it’s going to be used on casework, I leave it unfinished and then finish with the process I use to dye and finish the rest of the casework.

-- "I dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road and no one questions its motive"' - Anne Nonny Mouse

What does wrapping the mineral oiled workpiece in Saran wrap do?

-- Rich;) -"Dada make a big mess?" "Yes Dada made a big mess."

In my book, if you own a lathe you should have a three wheel buffing system. A lot of times, buffing and waxing on the three wheel buffer is the only finishing I do on a project. It’s not only great for turnings, but for finishing any other small project.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Seems like the stuff from General Finishes is a favorite in many categories. I have used three or four of their products, always good results. I guess I’ll have to try that Turners Finish now.

-- Dan V. in Indy

Kreegan, some insist mineral oil doesn’t evaporate but my experiments lead me to believe some of it it does disappear into thin air. That or the air polymerizes it on the surface.

Taking two pieces from the same board, coating both with a generous coat of mineral oil, and only wrapping one . . . In a day the unwrapped’s surface is dry to the touch but it takes up to three days for the wrapped section. Also, when restoring the dried out wood handle on a kitchen knife that has been repreatedly washed it only takes a couple wrapped coatings to restore vs. half a dozen coatings without wrapping in Saran Wrap.

Hence, I think the wrapping results with more of the mineral oil being absorbed by the wood.

-- "I dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road and no one questions its motive"' - Anne Nonny Mouse