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I can finally resaw straight

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Forum topic by Douglas posted 01-17-2013 03:30 AM 1221 views 7 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Douglas

307 posts in 1249 days


01-17-2013 03:30 AM

Well, its my bandsaw, a Grizzly G0555P 14” that I got about a year and a half ago. It came without the riser block, and I upgraded to that shortly after getting it, for 12” of resaw capacity. At the same time, I also got a Wood Slicer 1/2” 3-4 tpi blade. I thought I was in great shape, put it on, and made my cuts. But for the most part I wasn’t re-sawing anything, just making thinner “flat” cuts, and those went fine. But in the last 3-4 months, I have had reason to make some taller cuts, and resaw cuts, and dammit, the blade was wandering. Badly.

Frustrated, I read up, and watched videos, on how to tune and set up a bandsaw. I crawled around, made the adjustments, and while it got better, it still was drifting too far. I sort of walked away from it for a while, not sure what I was doing wrong. The problem was eating at me, however. Great blade? check. Did all the setup stuff I was supposed to? check. So why were my cuts getting crooked?

Then last week I had to do some resawing again, and I couldn’t stand having this problem anymore. Reading up on how to set things up, again, I saw someone mention of how an incorrect setup can screw up your blade, and that getting a new, good blade is a good place to start tuning up a bandsaw. Interesting. Thinking of how I got here, I realized that it was over a year ago when I got the great blade, but the saw was set up poorly. I ran it that way for a year or so. THEN I did the setup properly, but I’d probably already screwed up the blade. One was always throwing the other off, and that’s why I didn’t get the results I wanted.

So last week I ordered a new Wood Slicer 1/2 3-4tpi blade. When it arrived, I tore my bandsaw down, and slowly and methodically cleaned it all up, put on the new blade, and set it up correctly. Guess what? Perfect resawing at last…

(The lens makes that last one look crooked, but its dead straight all the way through and along the cut). color me happy.

So, lesson learned. When trying to solve a problem, do all the steps at the right time in the right order, or some part you assume is going to fine could screw everything up.

-- Douglas in Chicago - http://dcwwoodworks.com


17 replies so far

View lab7654's profile

lab7654

252 posts in 936 days


#1 posted 01-17-2013 03:38 AM

A good lesson for everyone. Lots of variables play into our projects, we just have to find and fix the bad ones- in the right order.

-- Tristin King -- When in doubt, sand it.

View chrisagnew's profile

chrisagnew

15 posts in 2414 days


#2 posted 01-17-2013 03:44 AM

Doug:

holy smokes brother, I am right where you were at. Would you say its true that you dont need to get involved with a fence that compensates for the drift by angling it if the band saw is set up right?

I have tried setting the fence but that didnt work well either.

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1699 days


#3 posted 01-17-2013 03:51 AM

Woodslicers are a low tension blade. Common knowledge suggests tension isn’t high enough if your blade is wandering, but with a Woodslicer chances are it’s too high. Glad you’re cutting straight again.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View Douglas's profile

Douglas

307 posts in 1249 days


#4 posted 01-17-2013 03:53 AM

chrisagnew: I’m not a fan of adjusting the fence for the drift. I just don’t think there should be any drift if you set it up right. But I’ve heard that before, and even Highland Woodworking sends a sheet of instructions with the Wood Slicer blade, and it talks about adjusting the fence for drift, too.

But I watched Alex Snodgrass’ presentation on this YouTube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU , followed Michael Fortune’s set up tips in the “Bandsaw Basics from Fine Woodworking” iPad app (which is just a re-do of his tips from the mag), and even saw Scott Phillips on the American Woodworker show fly through 12” logs effortlessly and straight, while mentioning how adjusting the fence for drift was a silly idea.

So I said screw the drift approach, and went for the “straight” approach. Now that I can do it, I feel that’s the way it should be.

live4ever: I think my tension was a bit hight as well, which didn’t help

-- Douglas in Chicago - http://dcwwoodworks.com

View chrisagnew's profile

chrisagnew

15 posts in 2414 days


#5 posted 01-17-2013 03:56 AM

Beautiful advice brother, thanks. Gonna look into the wood slicer, how about the guides on the grizzly ( i have the same saw) did you replace them as well??

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

811 posts in 799 days


#6 posted 01-17-2013 03:57 AM

Douglas,

I am glad you solved your problems. I use a different brand on by 17” Grizzly with good results.

live4ever,

I never heard of a low tension blade. I know how to tension my Timber Wolf blade, how do you do a low tension setup?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View Douglas's profile

Douglas

307 posts in 1249 days


#7 posted 01-17-2013 03:58 AM

I was going to go cool blocks, but didn’t. One change at a time. Now that its working, I might not. It if ain’t (or is no longer) broke…

-- Douglas in Chicago - http://dcwwoodworks.com

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2169 days


#8 posted 01-17-2013 04:28 AM

Great post. I just went through the riser block installation a few weeks ago myself. I had read a lot of info also that talked about setting the fence up to the blade drift. I set up the saw to cut veneers for marquetry. I happen to have the 14” Powermatic saw. I also bought the Wood Slicer blade. I followed the tension info that they sent with the blade and I also followed the Powermatic manual which was quite the same. I find that I dont have any drift. I can set the fence square to the table and blade and it cuts just perfect. I was amazed at how easy it was to cut the veneers. I have been cutting boards that are about 8 to 10 inches wide and have been very happy with the performance of the blade and saw.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View mcase's profile

mcase

438 posts in 1818 days


#9 posted 01-17-2013 12:03 PM

Yeah,

That’s a great video. When I got my first Bandsaw I was unfortunate enough to also buy Bull Sh-t artist Mark Durginsky’s book with all the total BS about Co-Planar. It cost me a lot of pain and time setting it up ala’ Durginsky and it never ran right. Like Snowy I got the PM 14”. I finally set it up the PM way and it works fine. I wish that the Snodgrass video was around back then. Anyway whoever put that video out there has performed a public service IMO. Glad it all worked out.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1700 posts in 1611 days


#10 posted 01-17-2013 03:28 PM

I have that same grizzly with the riser and woodslicer blade. It cuts straight and true …....for a while. The blades go dull after a while and start wandering . I suspect it was more the ware on your first blade than your set up that gave you the problem. I bought 5 woodslicer blades at a time and change when necessary. I plan to try a carbide blade soon to see for myself if they last any longer. I am resawing a lot of cedar and some oak.

-- In God We Trust

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3288 posts in 862 days


#11 posted 01-17-2013 08:57 PM

Awesome buddy! Great resawing job!

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2135 posts in 1798 days


#12 posted 01-17-2013 10:33 PM

I have had great results with the same saw. Cool blocks are a good option for those that have block guides. I think the roller guides are superior on this saw. Properly adjusted on top and bottom, little drift will occur compared to saws that use the block guides.

-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1996 posts in 966 days


#13 posted 01-17-2013 10:55 PM

Thanks for the video

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View chrisagnew's profile

chrisagnew

15 posts in 2414 days


#14 posted 01-27-2013 12:07 AM

Went thru the whole program today with the Snodgrass video on youtube. Nowhere near as hard as I thought it may be. Did exactly what he said and I cant believe but I resawed a piece of walnut and it came out pretty darn good. Not great because I have a hokey resaw fence and a cheap blade but all I would really need to do is break out a plane and even it out a bit.

That was a great post by doug, It got me motivated to finally sit down and get it done. Gonna get a wood slicer or timber wolf or much better blade and work on a resaw fence and I am confident I will be in good shape.

View ScottinTexas's profile

ScottinTexas

108 posts in 637 days


#15 posted 01-27-2013 12:21 AM

Thanks for the info. I think my next major purchase will be a bandsaw but I have a LOT of research to do first.

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