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new ridgid r4512 or used jet jts-10?

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Forum topic by tanuki posted 01-16-2013 10:51 AM 1531 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tanuki

5 posts in 647 days


01-16-2013 10:51 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

I’m setting up a little shop for the first time, want to build some kitchen cabinets, trying to figure out my best affordable table saw option. Was going to go for the Bosch 4100-09 but was persuaded that it would not be accurate enough. Read through many of the posts on the Ridgid 4512 and am leaning that way, but wondering if a 10 year old Jet JTS10 would offer greater accuracy, and for less money. Also, concerned about not having a riving knife and pawls on the older table. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.


17 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5514 posts in 2064 days


#1 posted 01-16-2013 11:18 AM

Accuracy is a result of alignment, setup, blade choice, material flatness, technique, etc. Both of those full size saws have similar potential for accuracy (or inaccuracy). If one has a better fence and/solid cast wings for a cheaper price, those features may be attractive to you, but neither has an advantage in accuracy.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View jap's profile

jap

1232 posts in 743 days


#2 posted 01-16-2013 01:35 PM

i’d recomend the R4512

-- Joel

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

13769 posts in 1364 days


#3 posted 01-16-2013 01:37 PM

Does the Ridgid have a riving knife? The Jet probably just has a splitter. I’d go riving knife, with most everything else being equal!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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Darkeyce

25 posts in 734 days


#4 posted 01-16-2013 06:03 PM

Hey Tanuki,
I’m having similar thoughts, although my choices were a Porter-Cable-270-something and the Ridgid r4512.
I’ think I’m going with the R4512. The PC was $100 more and apparetnly HD will honor competitors coupons, so i’m rolling i there with a Rockler 20% and a HF 20% (both are 20% off one regular priced item). So, regardless of which one HD takes the R4512 will work out to about $425. at that price i don’t think it can be beat.

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SamuraiSaw

464 posts in 653 days


#5 posted 01-16-2013 06:41 PM

I’ll take the Jet over the Rigid any day…................

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

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toolie

1769 posts in 1317 days


#6 posted 01-16-2013 07:12 PM

the R4512 will work out to about $425. at that price i don’t think it can be beat.

good move. and if one HD won’t take either of those coupons, try another manager at the same store or a different store. i’ve even called 800-homedepot and afer explaining the situation to a CS rep, they instructed a reluctant ASM to accept a harbor freight 20% of coupon.

the reasons to choose the 4512 over the jet are numerous, but the 90 day satisfaction guaranty and the LSA are two important ones. if you try the ridgid and don’t like it, just return it. can you return the jet?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View tanuki's profile

tanuki

5 posts in 647 days


#7 posted 01-17-2013 12:53 AM

Thanks guys. The Ridgid it is, even though I have some trepidation about the set-up after reading Furnitude’s detailed reports. The riving knife is a big factor for me here, the Jet I was looking at didn’t seem to have even a splitter, DIYaholic. I early on also considered the Porter Cable, Darkkeyce, but read some discouraging stuff about plastic bits breaking, and its steel table seems less appealing than the cast iron on the Ridgid. And thanks for the tip on HF coupons, Toolie, I never would have thought of that. I have a feeling I’ll be back with a question or two about set-up and alignment.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3458 posts in 1660 days


#8 posted 01-17-2013 02:57 AM

Don’t waste any time getting it set up and tested.
HD has a 90 day return policy and if you have one with the alignment problem you need to get it replaced right away. That problem, if you have it, will not adjust away. It can’t be fixed; only exchanged.

The LSA for me is a non-issue. I wouldn’t haul that heavy sucker to my nearest service depot for it.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View toolie's profile

toolie

1769 posts in 1317 days


#9 posted 01-17-2013 04:13 AM

good suggestion by crank49. there are 4512s that report changing miter slot/blade parallelism as the blade elevation is changed. but i do recall seeing a thread on either woodnet or the ridgid forum where an owner with the problem used clamps to overcome the defect. i’d set the cabinet on a bench and check parallelism with a dial gauge. if it changes as the blade elevation is adjusted up and down, i’d return it. thankfully, it only weighs 250 lbs, so moving it shouldn’t be that big of an ordeal.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

13769 posts in 1364 days


#10 posted 01-17-2013 04:21 AM

Good luck. Don’t forget to keep us informed of the setup and any alignment issues.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View tanuki's profile

tanuki

5 posts in 647 days


#11 posted 01-17-2013 04:33 AM

Toolie, you may have seen that write-up by Furnitude that I mentioned. He wrote “One of the criticisms I keep reading about saws with table mounted trunnions is that you can’t align the blade to the miter slot. I can say definitively that the blade on this saw can be aligned. It could be an easier process but it is certainly doable.” And then he links to an excruciatingly detailed description of how he did it, with the clamps as you recall, to hold things in place while he tightened the screws. Annoying, but doable. So—when I get my saw, should I expect the thing to come out of the box in perfect (or near-perfect) alignment? Is Furnitude exceptionally fussy, or just eager to take on a challenging task? He stated that after he did his alignment “the blade is now between 2/1000th and 3/1000th out of parallel with the miter slot.” Is this a reasonable target?

View crank49's profile

crank49

3458 posts in 1660 days


#12 posted 01-17-2013 06:25 AM

I have one of the defective machines.
I don’t need a gauge to detect the problem.
And, it is not fixable by any amount of adjusting.

I have had it perfect, within .001” anyway.
Then you raise or lower the blade and you can watch it shift, first one way, then the other.
It moves about 1/16th of an inch sideways while going up or down.

Then if you think you can put it back to the original height and be okay, think again.
I does not return to the same place; ever.

Knowing how well I can control my temper I suspect I will fix mine one of these days. . . with a 16lb sledge.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5514 posts in 2064 days


#13 posted 01-17-2013 11:16 AM

The blade can be aligned on these saws, but it is tedious. Alignment is set at the factory, but can shift during transit and setup, so it needs to be checked, and often adjusted.

Several of the earlier models had a defect that caused the alignment to change when the blade height was changed….that has supposedly been fixed, but its possible that old stock still exists in some stores. That issue affected the R4512, 21833, the Dayton and Menard’s versions of the saw, as well as the Grizzly G0715P that used a similar trunnions system (likely from the same manufacturer).

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1769 posts in 1317 days


#14 posted 01-17-2013 03:52 PM

+1 on knottscott’s comments. the problem i was referring to is not the act of aligning miter slot/blade parallelism. i have two table mounted trunion saws and both are within .001” of perfect. it ain’t all that hard. the other problem, where the parallelism changes as the blade is elevated and lowered, would, if uncorrectable, mean there is a defect in the trunion system of the saw probably rendering it almost useless. but you can return it for one that might not have that specific defect.

should I expect the thing to come out of the box in perfect (or near-perfect) alignment?

you should expect that it probably won’t be perfectly aligned and should anticipate having to set it up yourself. this will serve two functions. first, you’ll gain familiarity with how the saw is constructed and how it operates. second, you’ll know that it is accurate to the extent you wish to pursue accuracy. again, it’s not all that difficult. many WWs point to cabinet mounted trunions ad being some kind of panacea. IMHE, that hasn’t been the case.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Scott's profile

Scott

103 posts in 913 days


#15 posted 01-17-2013 05:27 PM

lol @ Toolie, “it only weighs 250 lbs”

I know you’re comparing it to cabinet saws that weigh a lot more, but I had a hell of a time getting it into my basement. I really wouldn’t want to reverse that process to take it back :)

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