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| Forum topic by Preserved | posted 153 days ago | 651 views | 0 times favorited | 20 replies | ![]() |
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153 days ago |
Hi Everyone,
I’m having a hard time trimming this down to size. My plan was to use a circular saw with a guide but ended up getting a very poor cut with tear-out on the top and burning. I was using this 40t blade blade (new): http://www.toolbarn.com/dewalt-dw3594b10.html Would a better blade help? More teeth? http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0760X-Diablo-Finish-4-Inch/dp/B001CZEU0S Would I be better trimming to within 1/8 inch and then cleaning up the edge with a straight router bit?? Any suggestions appreciated! |
20 replies so far
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#1 posted 153 days ago |
Can you clean it up with a plane with a very sharp iron? or an edge sander? I think a router bit would be worse. I have cleaned up end grain with a jointer too. Very, very light pass, very slow feed rate and tape the end so you don’t get tear out. If you’re going to round the corners you can do it first and not worry about tear out. Not sure if it’s your blade, saw or setup. A saw with some vibration will do that even with a good blade. I don’t think my festool would be perfect but I’m sure it would be better than the results you’re showing. -- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply. |
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#2 posted 153 days ago |
I would use a router with a straight bit, I just recently built a desk with a similar top and that’s what I did. Cut a little from the end before doing the main pass (careful you’ll be climb cutting) and you should be able to minimize the tear out. -- Perilous to all of us are the devices of an art deeper than we ourselves possess. --Gandalf the Grey http://davidwahl.org/category/woodworking/ |
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#3 posted 153 days ago |
Yes you can clean up the cut with a router,as with any end grain router trimming I always start at the right and do a climb cut for 6” or so to prevent blow out and then router from left to right taking very light cuts using a guide -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#4 posted 153 days ago |
^ Jim explained it better, but that’s exactly what I was saying. -- Perilous to all of us are the devices of an art deeper than we ourselves possess. --Gandalf the Grey http://davidwahl.org/category/woodworking/ |
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#5 posted 153 days ago |
Seems we were typing at the same time David thought you explaniaion was fine. -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#6 posted 153 days ago |
Use a straight edge and score a line all the way around the top with a razor knife, then route it like Jim and David said. The score will prevent any chip out and give you a target to route to. Take very tiny amounts off at a time. Keep the bit clean, built up resin causes heat , dullness and burns. -- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978 |
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#7 posted 153 days ago |
Do exactly what Jim said. -- jay, www.allaboutastro.com |
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#8 posted 153 days ago |
Using a spiral cut bit will also help…......... -- Friends don't let friends use right tilt contractor saws...... |
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#9 posted 153 days ago |
Thanks guys! I’ve used a router this way before, didn’t know it was called a climb cut. Since I’m taking so little material off, this should be easy to control. Wdwerker- scoring with a razor seems like a great idea too! I’ve got at at least 4 inches to cut off (planer sniped ends) so I can practice before I get to the real cut. |
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#10 posted 153 days ago |
I just looked up spiral cut bits, they are expensive! I don’t have one! |
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#11 posted 153 days ago |
the spiral bit is worth every penny though! it’s like the diffence between using a dull hand plane straight on on the end grain vs. using a really sharp skewed block plane. |
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#12 posted 153 days ago |
You have to be careful with spiral bits – easy to be seriously aggressive when you least expect it. If you are just cleaning up the edges, I would use a low angle plane set for a fine a shaving as possible. It is better to take ten really fine passes than one that looks like crap. Using a router the same way – small cuts, but I would create some sample pieces to play with and get the “Feel” of what and how your router will behave on your wood. This may take you longer but it is far better than turning your counter into firewood. -- David in Damascus, MD |
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#13 posted 153 days ago |
David, Any tricks with the low angle plane? I have one, and love using it..but in cased like these I find that I end up with something other than a 90 corner between the two planes. My sides end up not vertical. Perhaps I just don’t have the eye for it. |
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#14 posted 153 days ago |
To address the blade issue – a 40 tooth blade is not intended to make nice clean cross cuts. Ok for house framing, but maple butcher block I’d say not. |
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#15 posted 153 days ago |
Thanks for all the replies. What a cool thing this forum is. I ask a question, and within hours I get multiple expert responses! How did I get along 10 years ago? Thanks! Looking forward to trying these suggestions. |
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