Repeatable thin rips on a table saw

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by fstellab posted 01-14-2013 03:31 PM 5483 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View fstellab's profile


86 posts in 2053 days

01-14-2013 03:31 PM

Hi Folks,

I got a nice table saw (R4512) because I am going to embark on a project that will require me to do a lot of ripping hardwood to 2” and 1/2” strips. So now I am looking for a ripping sled, possibility 2 ripping sleds one for the 2” the other for the 1/2”. It is essential that these rips are the same size day after day, so I am thinking anything adjustable, including my fence will not work.

I have looked all over this site and other places for non adjustable plan, some of Incra stuff will work, but at that price I can hire a professional.

The wood I will be using (Macacauba) eventually is very hard, right now I am training my self with poplar.

I have on order:

Table Saw tune up kit
Zero-Tollarance Insert plate
Tenryu RS-25524-U 10” Rapid-Cut Ultra Thin Saw Blade
10” Coated Thin Kerf Crosscut Blade
I have the Gripper and the usual Table Saw Safety Kit

Here is the plan:
I need to make scores of slats that will be part a vented shelf. These slats are roughly 1/2” x 2” x 18”
The wood will be 13/16”s x 4” x 48”

I plan to cut a 2” rip from the wood, then turn the 13/16” x 2” x 48” on its side and cut it in half, yielding a
1/2” x 2” x 48” slat.

I really need some sort on jig that will help me make those cuts exactly the same day after day.


-- Fred Stellabotte (

23 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile


4687 posts in 2319 days

#1 posted 01-14-2013 03:38 PM

These jigs work well. You can make your own easily, they are a simple design if you don’t want to spend the money.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View IrreverentJack's profile


727 posts in 2810 days

#2 posted 01-14-2013 04:16 PM

Fred, There are quite a few thin rip jig posts on the site. You might be able to just turn a feather board around in the miter slot to use as a stop when you adjust the fence. I would also use a few feather boards while ripping the slats. -Jack

View peterbb's profile


37 posts in 2255 days

#3 posted 01-14-2013 06:48 PM

I would keep a “reference slat” that could be put between the blade and fence when setting the fence position.

Alternatively, you could make two jigs/fences that would ride in the mitre slot, and be clamped to the table so they don’t move, and are the desired distance from the blade.

The dimensions you mention don’t add up – don’t forget to allow for the blade thickness when calculating the width and thickness of your slats. My blade is 1/8” thick, so I would get two 1 15/16” wide slats from your 4” board – IF the board is really 4.000” wide.

Slicing a 13/16” thick board in half would give me two 11/32” thick slats, allowing for the 1/8” blade kerf.

-- Peter

View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4186 days

#4 posted 01-14-2013 07:03 PM

Ditto what Peter said about using the reference slat to set your fence. That’s going to be just as accurate as any jig you could make, IMO.

Have you actually tried ripping a 13/16×2” board as you propose? It’s a tricky cut, and not one I’d want to be doing repetitively.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Loren's profile (online now)


10275 posts in 3615 days

#5 posted 01-14-2013 07:08 PM

In addition to the fractions issue, 48” strips won’t
come out straight. The wood will move after
you rip it both times. Not always noticeably,
but it will often.

View MrRon's profile


4719 posts in 3211 days

#6 posted 01-14-2013 08:20 PM

There is something wrong with your math. If you rip a 2” wide strip from 4” wide stock, the left over piece will be 2” minus the saw blade kerf. Ripping the 2”x13/16” will give you 0ne 2×1/2 strip. The most you can expect to get from the wood you are going to use is: two pieces, 1-7/8”x1/2”; cut that to 18” long and you will have four pieces; the rest will be scrap.

View MT_Stringer's profile


3160 posts in 3198 days

#7 posted 01-14-2013 09:57 PM

I made a jig similar to this one for ripping 1/4 thick slats to make some crates. It works well.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10048 posts in 4020 days

#8 posted 01-14-2013 10:37 PM

View Alongiron's profile


647 posts in 2660 days

#9 posted 01-14-2013 10:44 PM

If you have a band saw, I would rip the pieces on it using a good wood slicer blade from Highland woodworking. Finish the pieces off by using a thickness planer, this should help you to remove any saw marks and insure that all of the pieces are exactly the same

-- Measure twice and cut once.....sneak up on it! Steve Lien

View runswithscissors's profile


2725 posts in 1992 days

#10 posted 01-15-2013 01:53 AM

Okay, here is an idea I haven’t tried, though I may have seen it somewhere. Start with a 4’ piece of 1X4 (or 2X4). Run it most of the way through the TS to take off a strip from the edge the width that you want (actually the width minus blade thickness). Finish the slot where the arc of the circular blade didn’t cut with a BS or handsaw. Cross cut the board just enough to remove the strip. Fasten some sort of handle to this board, close enough to the near end that you will be able to push it through without having to overreach. Now you have a board 4’ long with a little hook at the end. Place your work piece against the board with the end resting against the hook. Run it through the blade. For your next cut, and all subsequent, just repeat. Once set up, there’s no need to move the fence through the whole operation. Should go quite fast.

Just looked back at your specifications. For 18” slats, wouldn’t it be easier to use 3 footers? Otherwise you’re going to have a lot of 12” offcuts to shovel out of the way. You could start with 6 footers, if available, or you could get five 18” out of an 8’ board with only 6” of waste.

As I say, I haven’t tried this, so there may be something I’m overlooking. Perhaps someone will see the flaw in this scheme so I won’t waste my time trying it, as now I’m quite curious to see if it might work.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View tomd's profile


2149 posts in 3738 days

#11 posted 01-15-2013 02:03 AM

I agree with Bondo. I cut alot of thin strips and I use Rockler’s thin strip jig, inexpensive and very accurate.

-- Tom D

View fstellab's profile


86 posts in 2053 days

#12 posted 01-15-2013 03:14 AM


I purchased the wood woodworkers source, they have Board Feet kits … so I don’t know exactly what boards I am going to get. AllI know is that they will be 13/16th’s depth and no length > 48”.

The length of the slats will be 12” or 24” depending on the wall unit, so I am thinking I will cut the boards down to 12” or 24” before I make the slats.

As for the Saw Blade, I called the folks who are supplying me the wood, they suggested I get:

Tenryu RS-25524-U 10” Carbide Tipped Saw Blade ( 24 Tooth ATB Grind – 5/8” Arbor – 0.079 Kerf)

So I did, it wasn’t cheap.

Again, my primary goal is to make them all the same size, if that actual size is off a bit that’s no problem.


-- Fred Stellabotte (

View shipwright's profile


7966 posts in 2765 days

#13 posted 01-15-2013 04:32 AM

Am I the only one who uses the fence? These show a short piece but I’d cut longer ones the same way, they’d just be easier.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees.

View fstellab's profile


86 posts in 2053 days

#14 posted 01-15-2013 02:48 PM

> Here is a Jig that will also do it… Just fine…
>—Have Fun! Joe Lyddon – Alta Loma, CA USA – Home: ... My Small Gallery: >”

Hi Joe,

That is a neat jig … I think I will give it a try … starting out with 2 holes instead of the sliding slot, then when I am done with the project, I will extend the holes into the slot for future use.

I really want a jig for this project that I can put into place quickly put is still safe and consistent.

-- Fred Stellabotte (

View DS's profile


2894 posts in 2388 days

#15 posted 01-15-2013 03:35 PM

I really need some sort on jig that will help me make those cuts exactly the same day after day.

This statement makes me think you are going into some sort of serious production with this item.
If that is the case, I would use a production method for it.

That is to say, If I were going to do this as a business, I would use a gang rip and a moulder to make these pieces accurately and in volume. This could be done for the slats as well as the end rails. For volume production, this is the only way to go.

You don’t even need to buy this equipment, as many hardwood suppliers or molding houses will run this for you for a nominal fee. Otherwise, this would be very monotonous one-by-one day-after-day and the quality would be unreliable.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

showing 1 through 15 of 23 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics