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| Forum topic by trz | posted 130 days ago | 452 views | 0 times favorited | 14 replies | ![]() |
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130 days ago |
what’s the best way to bore a centered hole through an 18 in long 3×3 turning blank? |
14 replies so far
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#1 posted 130 days ago |
Shell auger should be the best. The nicest ones use air to blast out (gun drill) but otherwise pull out often to clear chips. -- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/ |
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#2 posted 130 days ago |
I read that topic wrong. -- Project Coordinator at Nord Alta Construction |
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#3 posted 130 days ago |
In the old days they would use a pair of squares standing next to the auger bit so they could sight down the bit and stay straight as they turned. They’d drill half way through, flip it end for end, and drill the other half. Windsor chair makers still do the eyeball trick. It’s pretty accurate if your bit is sharp and you take your time with a brace and not a power drill. -- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes Wednesdays at: http://www.stumpynubs.com |
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#4 posted 130 days ago |
Gun boring bit. -- *Arachnoleptic*: The frantic dance performed just after you've accidently walked through a spider web. |
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#5 posted 130 days ago |
Cut the blank in half, using a core box bit in a router table make matching grooves and then glue it back together. -- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless. |
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#6 posted 130 days ago |
If you have it, a lathe would be handy to drill a hole that long. You’ll need a hollow center on the tailstock and an auger to drill with. I made mine out of a long electrician’s bit. If you don’t have that, GaryL’s idea would work fine. |
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#7 posted 130 days ago |
for lamps we cut the groove first then glue up to turn. used gun drills for fishing lures. feed very slowly so the drill doesn’t track the grain. for through holes on 6” spear fishing handles it was one shot through. for the 12” drill from both ends and then run past the meeting point. |
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#8 posted 130 days ago |
Like these guys said when I built a lamp I used a router and a core box bit. Mark the ends so you can get them centered and glue them together. After I parted the ends off I had to drive a rod through the hole to knock the glue out. There was squeeze out. Worked well for me. |
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#9 posted 130 days ago |
thanks for all the advice. just to get all the answers I can, i asked the same question to the turners on there forum. thanks again. might try the lathe |
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#10 posted 130 days ago |
Lee Valley sells parabolic tip drill bits that drill straight in end grain, but 18” is too long for them . . . -- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe"" |
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#11 posted 130 days ago |
I have three very long drill bits, right about the 16” to 18” range. The 3/8” one is an auger style. A 1/2” one I have stashed somewhere, is about the long, and is a spade style bit. I’d have to look at the third as to size and length. Ships augers, or electricians installer’s bits. At least that is where i got mine. “Sparky” was bad about losing them long bits. later, I’d find them as I was cleaning up the job site. If you want, I can find them, again.. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
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#12 posted 130 days ago |
Traditionally, boat builders bored long shaft holes with a barefoot auger (no spur or lead screw), using simple jigs to line up the drill. They tended to be very long because propeller shafts often had to be long. The barefoot configuration is to avoid being deflected by the grain. Otherwise, I agree with the router groove in 2 halves. |
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#13 posted 130 days ago |
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#14 posted 129 days ago |
i managed to find two of mine. Both are about 16” long. one is a 3/8” auger, the other is a 7/16” drill bit. Still haven’t tracked down the 1/2” spade bit that is the same length. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
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