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Forum topic by poser516 posted 89 days ago 544 views 0 times favorited 33 replies Add to Favorites
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poser516

38 posts in 135 days


89 days ago

Hello you all.
I’m looking to purchase my first tablesaw. I’m not a woodworker but am using it to make wood surfboards. I will be ripping 9-10 foot 2 by material into thin strips with the saw.

If you go here:
http://woodworking.jettools.com/Categories.aspx?cat=333114

You can see the two saws i am interested in. THe one on the left, labled “benchtop”, looks nice and easy to move around and pretty basic. it’s around 350 dollars. It has legs, which is mandatory for myself. They have another one, the contractor saw, to the right, which is about double the price, maybe a little less.

I’d rather not spend that much money but if I have to, I will. Ill mainly be ripping cedar and redwoods and woods of that weight. Will the saw on the left be enough for me? or do i need something like the contractor saw?

Thanks for all of your help,
Bobby

View Brad's profile

Brad

67 posts in 310 days


89 days ago

Just my 2 cents but I would keep an eye out on craigslist. You may find as you start getting into woodworking you’re going to want some more versatility from your table saw. You can find an awesome TS on craigslist for about what you’re going to spend on the small bench top TS. Jet makes great tools though so really you couldn’t go wrong. Just make sure whatever you buy has a quality rip fence… nothing worse than spending all day creating scrap.

After a few purchases on Craigslist I’ve found tools unlike other items aren’t really “used” they are just dirty. After a little clean up even the worst looking tool will perform like a champ.

-- Great Coffee= 8oz strong coffee, 1tbsp brown sugar, 1tbsp 1/2&1/2, 1 heaping teaspoon mahoganny

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

355 posts in 185 days


89 days ago

there are plenty of delta contractor saws going on sale on craigslist – some are pretty decent!

-- My Drinking Club has a Woodworking Problem...

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

29 posts in 199 days


89 days ago

FWIW … I bought a Jet 708100 almost two years ago. Here’s a review I posted a while back: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/333

-- The Dane, Wisconsin

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poser516

38 posts in 135 days


88 days ago

hey yall.
thanks for the tips. craigs list has treated me well in the past but so far haven’t found anything that looks satisfactory on there as far as table saws go. im also most hesitant with used table saws because i don’t want a junky fence.

the 7089100 looks great, but is twice as much. is it excessive for me to purchase that tool? dane, how big in feet is it?

View David Harms's profile

David Harms

46 posts in 279 days


88 days ago

i too was in this same position several months ago, and I nearly went with a bench top model, save a few extra hundred dollars and get a contractors saw that has full cast iron wings you wont regret it. I picked up a delta contractors saw at the houston wood working show earlier this year for $495ish and have no regrets about the purchase and know that it unlike a bench top saw will serve me well for years to come.

I dont want to stear you away from jet they are a great brand but compair the prices on the delta.

-- David - Houston, Texas.

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

605 posts in 290 days


88 days ago

I bought my Dewalt DW746 off of Craigslist..just keep an eye on the list and when you see something up check it out….thats what I did.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

1400 posts in 224 days


88 days ago

Looks like Home Depot is selling the contractor model for over $200 less than Lowes and most of the other places …better hurry before HD finds out !!! Unless you’re going to be ripping all that cedar , etc. outside , you probably ought to consider a good dust collector as well ….AACHOO !!!! After experiencing a DELTA benchtop saw and a REAL saw …...I opted for the REAL saw which was a JET cabinet saw which is probably more saw than you’ll ever need …I would go with the contractor saw myself : ) You don’t mention if the surfboards are for yourself or if you are opening a business….

-- Dusty56@comcast.net

View damnHippie's profile

damnHippie

27 posts in 312 days


88 days ago

I have the bench top version of the jet table saw. It is very powerful for the price, and the table is very flat. But the fence is a bit wobbly until locked down (making it hard to know if it is parallel to the blade), the miter slots are narrower than most (making it hard to find an aftermarket miter gauge), and on mine the blade isn’t parallel to the miter slots and isn’t adjustable.

With all that in mind, I use the saw on a regular basis and am very pleased with it. Just gotta know what you’ve got, I guess. If possible, buy one you’ve seen in person and have had a chance to inspect.

-- 10 fingers, 2 eyes, and healthy lungs. for now. :P

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

748 posts in 352 days


88 days ago

Have you considered a band saw? Much safer and you could probably get away with a small one. Build it into a bench so you can support the long boards and make strips to your hearts content without all the noise and danger of kickback.

Just trying to think outside the box.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

View Tom Adamski's profile

Tom Adamski

226 posts in 307 days


88 days ago

Bobby,
It is not so much what you are cutting as it is the importance of it. I’m sure you want to make the finest surfboards and you should have the best tools you can to be the best craftsman you can be. I agree with Brad & PurpLev, keep an eye out for a used Delta contractor saw (if you want to save money) or check out CPO Delta and have them ship you one brand new. Two further points, one, if it is a Delta, make sure it has an external motor (you can see it mounted to the back of the saw). Two, if it does not have a fence in good condition, you can get a replacement T2 fence from Delta or even Lowes. Good luck and remember, buy the best tools you can afford and you’ll only cry once!

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


88 days ago

thanks for all of the help everybody. im amazed at all the information you have all just given me. im gonna look into the delta contractor saw right now and see what I can come up with. i did think about a bandsaw, chicowoodnut, but it seems like it would be difficult to get perfectly straight strips off of one. I guess I would have to clamp a piece of straight stock on the side of the blade, and use that as the fence? Would that be accurate?

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


88 days ago

just doing some looking around. why are jet tools so expensive?

I was looking through the delta contractor tablesaws on their website and they have like 5 or 6. which is it that you reccomend, david?

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


88 days ago

how about the delta 36979?

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

748 posts in 352 days


87 days ago

Yup, you would have to make a fence as you described. Thinking back on my comment though, the one I linked is too small for ripping really long boards. I rip on my Jet bandsaw but it is a 14”.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

View ryno101's profile

ryno101

156 posts in 201 days


87 days ago

My two cents as well… I have posted a review of the benchtop model, and agree with DamnHippie… the fence is a bit wobbly, and inaccurate, you can see in my review how I’ve gotten around it.

If you’re looking for accuracy and precision out of the box, go with something that’s got a “real” fence… if you’re looking for power, reliability, solid construction, and are willing to do some tweaking, I’d say the benchtop Jet is a good saw for the money.

-- Ryno

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

538 posts in 122 days


87 days ago

It’s Horses for courses I would always emphasize that it’s better to spend a bit more and buy a full cabinet saw .It will be better in the long run.Unless portability is a big feature for your woodworking future demands .If not try to get something with a full cabinet and don’t dispel a used saw in good condition my 2 cents sorry if I dissapoint with my comments but it’s how I feel.good luck in any case .Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

355 posts in 185 days


87 days ago

poser the differences between the delta contractor saw models are usually the type of fence thats included with it… no fence << T2 Fence << Bisemeyer Fence, and the length of rails for the fence – 30” << 52” the bigger – the more money.

that being said – I’m not really a fan of Delta tools, they are for most very mediocre, and you can see that in many reviews of people that own those tools. I think the Jet tools are slightly better in quality – thus the higher price tag – sure people will argue about this, but I’ve been where you are at, and I did my research, and that’s what I found out.

I know you’re trying to keep this under a budget- but if you really are looking for a long term investment saw – I would look into the Hybrid saws – they are one step above the contractor saws, and provide a much higher quality – in terms of features, and power. Also- most of them have an integrated dust collection system build in as opposed to benchtop/contractor that has their bottom open, and all the dust just falls off to the floor and into the air.

just one more thing to look into, and keep your mind busy ;)

-- My Drinking Club has a Woodworking Problem...

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


85 days ago

ok guys, thanks for the info. as far as a cabinet saw goes, im just not in a place in my life to buy a saw of that nature. that actually coudln’t happen right now. a contractor saw…maybe.

forgive my ignorance, but
what is a miter slot? is it just where the blade comes out of? why would I want different widths?

View jcees's profile

jcees

473 posts in 335 days


85 days ago

The miter slot is the groove that runs parallel to the blade on either side. It allows you to use different jigs, accessories, sleds, fingerboards and whatever. As to the saw, go with the heaviest and most powerful you can afford. You will not regret it. Also, you’ll want the best/heaviest fence system too. [Biesemeyer et al] Check the real horsepower rating on the motor and IGNORE the Peak HP rating which is a useless number and misleading as heck.

BTW, Chicowoodnut made a fine suggestion about looking at the bandsaw. It has a smaller kerf [the space created by the blade] and if you use a good resaw blade you can rip strips all day long. Bandsaws come with fences too. I’ve got both. I also got a virtually virgin Delta 14” for $500 on eBay a couple of years back. Deals are scarce but can be had with a little patience and diligence. Also, check the newspaper, that’s how I got my Powermatic 66 for the price of a large contractor’s saw. Schweeet!

always,
J.C.

-- "Imagination is more important than knowledge" -- Albert Einstein

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poser516

38 posts in 135 days


83 days ago

man, i don’t know whether to get a bandsaw or a tablesaw now. Ill be ripping wood up to 10 feet long, and if it’s a 2X6 a bandsaw would make it much less work for me because I could ripmuch wider strips, and would need much less glue joints. I also need my strips relatively square, and I planned on doing it with the tablesaw but if a bandsaw could do it, it seems like a much safer bet. you think?

is this a good idea? the tool seems way more user friendly.

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poser516

38 posts in 135 days


83 days ago

ok guru’s.

im cecking out the delta 28-206 bandsaw. my question.

Is the height of the neck adjustable with these things? I read through all of the measurements that they offer but I didn’t see anything about the size of cut, height wise, that the saw can take. how do I tell?

is 1 horse power enough? their lowest model is 3/4, and the next one up is 1 hp. that should do it, right?

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


83 days ago

ok guys, im having some trouble here.
im looking at the delta website,
and out of the tablesaws im looking, the two base models, all of the specs are teh same, including the sfpm, only one is 1 hp and two speed, and one is 3/4 hp and two hundred bills cheaper. if the saw cuts the same speed, why would I want more ponies?

View marcb's profile

marcb

199 posts in 210 days


83 days ago

1 HP is good. I have a 3/4 HP 14” saw and can resaw at least 6” of stock easily so 1HP will do you good.

I did som resawing on Brazillian cherry (5 1/2 inch) this weekend and that is a HARD wood makes hard maple look like chump change.

The max height is a hair over 6” on that without a riser.

Ouch on the price though. I’m cheap. I got my saw for less than 1/4 of what amazon is asking.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

355 posts in 185 days


83 days ago

1HP Bandsaw would good enough for ripping wood. a band-saw has 2 limitation distances that you need to check

1. depth of throat – meaning the distance between the blade and the bandsaw chassis – the limitation here is the width of boards that you can feed through the bandsaw. This is also referred to as depth of cut

2. height of throat – meaning the distance between the band-saw table top, and the top-blade-guard at it’s highest position (yes the top guides are adjustable on all bandsaws) – this is also referred to as height of cut or maximum resaw height.

from what I can tell – all 14” should be more than enough for your ripping needs as they are between 6”-12” maximum height. you should check how deep/wide the throats are though if you’re planning to rip really wide boards.

I don’t think that a contractor table saw will have any problems with ripping 2×6. Sure the bandsaw will be a safer way to do it- but also a slower one at that as a table saw really excels as a ripping machine.

-- My Drinking Club has a Woodworking Problem...

View marcb's profile

marcb

199 posts in 210 days


83 days ago

Essencially More HP == faster feed and larger thickness capacity.

You can also max out the power of the saw with big cuts. Forcing teeth through wood is pretty hard so you have X amount of force you can apply you can’t exceed that.

My 3/4 HP saw has a riser but I haven’t had a wide board to test over 6” yet, so I’m not sure how big I can go.

View Jimmy808's profile

Jimmy808

16 posts in 139 days


83 days ago

Hey Bobby,

Before you buy a band saw. Take the wood you have down to a mill or cabinet or carpenter shop and they will cut it for you for a minimum fee. If you are in Hawaii . I know a guy that will do it for $35-75 bucks. Depending on how much you have. Or you could buy the veneer pre-cut. Do a google search on wood veneers.

I know a guy that surfs on a wood board in Hawaii. They work terrible! look nice…..
jimmy 808

-- Jimmy

View Bigdogs117's profile

Bigdogs117

854 posts in 157 days


83 days ago

I have a General International contractors saw. I compared it to the jet and delta. It was hands down better than either of them in my opinion for the price. $700 I think. Probably more than you want to spend, but it is a great saw and you’ll no doubt be happy with it (once you put it together,LOL)

-- http://rusty@midohio.twcbc.com

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


82 days ago

thanks guys, seriously. I appreciate it so much. I have nobody else to ask.

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


82 days ago

thanks guys, seriously. I appreciate it so much. I have nobody else to ask.

so the specs are:

  1. Motor: 3/4 HP, 120/240V (wired 120V), 1 Phase, 60 Hz
  1. Motor Control: NA
  1. Blade Width: Max. 3/4 “
  1. Blade Length: Min. 91-1/2”; Max. 94”; Standard 93-1/2”; Length (with 28-984 height attachment): Max. 106”; Min. 103-1/2”; Standard 105 “
  1. Speeds: 3,300 SFPM
  1. Capacity Blade to Frame: 13-3/4 “
  1. Capacity Under Guide and Wheel: 6-1/4”; With 28-984 height attachment: 12-1/4 “
  1. Max Rip To Right Of Blade: NA “
  1. Max Rip To Left Of Blade: NA “
  1. Table Size: 16” x 16 “
  1. Table Size Front to Center of Blade: NA “
  1. Table Tilt: R-45°; L-3 °
  1. Table Height: 42-3/4 “
  1. Height: 65-1/2 “
  1. Width: 31 “
  1. Depth: 17-1/2 “
  1. Weight: 201 lbs

purplev, i don’t see anything about the depth of throat or height of throat. can you help me out? Im guessing “depth” is the depth of throat?

this is the page. i really like the machine.
http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11198#

it’s only 3/4 hp, and the next one up is 1 hp, and like 2 hundred more, with every other spec exactly the same, except it has an enclosed bottom. do i need the 1 hp? the most dense wood ill probably be ripping is redwood. is 200 dollars worth it for 1/4 more hp and an enclosed bottom?

View marcb's profile

marcb

199 posts in 210 days


82 days ago

In terms of the 1/4HP I don’t think so, but I’m biased because my saw is like that one ;)

I resawed 5 1/4” brazillian cherry Sunday, that is a DENSE wood. It was a little slow but it came out nice.

View marcb's profile

marcb

199 posts in 210 days


82 days ago

what purplelev is talking about is the distance from the blade to the curved casting. Which is about 13.75” on a 14” saw. Its the usable space on the left hand side.

View poser516's profile

poser516

38 posts in 135 days


79 days ago

thanks guys.

View Gofor's profile

Gofor

73 posts in 323 days


78 days ago

The task will be ripping 2” thick boards into thin strips to laminate into a plank that will then be shaped into a surfboard, correct?

For a table saw to rip 2” thick 10’ long boards consistently, you need a powerful saw with an long outfeed table. The saw needs to be solid. A portable table top saw won’t do it, or if it does, not for long. A 1 1/2hp (i.e. 13 to 15 amp) belt driven saw will be the minimum. IF properly set up with a straight flat outfeed, and a glue-line rip blade, you may be able to get what you need providing your 10’ long lumber is flat and not twisted.

If the lumber is not straight and flat, then you will also need a long jointer to make it so, unless you choose to do it with hand tools (i.e hand planes), or a thckness planer.

A bandsaw will also cut the boards but you will need to flatten/square and smooth the edges for glue-up.
this can be accomplished by a thickness planer or belt sander.

By the way, woods like cedar and redwood coming off either saw in 2” x 2” x 10 foot lengths are going to be bowed, probably twisted and will really illustrate the term “gnarly”. you are going to need a lot of clamps to get them glued up straight.

By your posts, it appears to me you have little knowledge about woodworking, wood characteristics when cut, and the tools and processes. Before buying anything, you may want to consider taking a night class a the local community college, etc, (if available) on woodworking to get familiar with how to cut, what tools will do what, what glues to use, etc. It will save you a lot of money not buying what won’t do what you need, not to mention the cost in wasted lumber (10’ boards aren’t cheap). Most have you choose a project, and I would suggest the surfboard as yours. That way you can have someone show you how to do it, what it takes, and you will at least end up with your own custom board. After that, the sky’s the limit.

Go

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

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