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Blumotion slides help

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Forum topic by Ben posted 01-09-2013 03:04 AM 1212 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ben

203 posts in 1509 days


01-09-2013 03:04 AM

So I ordered the first small batch of slides – tandem undermounts – to start building a few drawers.

They are 21” slides and my drawers will be inset. What I’m wondering is, can I build a box to any length or does it have to be 21”? There are little prongs at the back end of the slides and I’m wondering if these need to attach to the box at all?

But since my drawers will be inset, I’m wondering if I could build, say, a 19 or 20” box to provide the illusion of the true full extension or even “over extension” to come out to my counter top overhang or at least outside my face frame.

Thanks.


26 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1759 posts in 1280 days


#1 posted 01-09-2013 03:06 AM

21 ” slides are usually meant for lower cabinets, which are ~ 24” deep.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Ben's profile

Ben

203 posts in 1509 days


#2 posted 01-09-2013 03:07 AM

Yes, these are going in my lowers. But you didn’t answer my questions.

View cutmantom's profile

cutmantom

282 posts in 1687 days


#3 posted 01-09-2013 03:18 AM

the little prongs are what hold the back of the drawer from tipping up, if the slides didn’t come with instructions try the blum site, there is a jig they make for installing these but is very expensive but if you take your time, maybe make a sample drawer you can do it

View huff's profile

huff

2804 posts in 1937 days


#4 posted 01-09-2013 03:24 AM

Ben,

Blum recommends the drawer box be 21” and yes the tabs are suppose to fit in a hole in the back of the drawer box. All that being said, I’m not sure how well they would hold up over a period of time if you shortened the box and relied strictly on the front locking devices to hold the drawer box to the slides.

I think you’re trying to get the drawer slide to do something it wasn’t designed to do. You may want to use the KV8405 22” side mount full extension slides which has the 1” override to give you that extra extension you’re looking for.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View Ben's profile

Ben

203 posts in 1509 days


#5 posted 01-09-2013 03:27 AM

Thanks huff.

No, it’s OK. too late at this point to swap slides. I’ll just do the 21” box and it will be fine.

I guess I’ll slide my first box up against the prongs and use that to layout the holes. Is just a round hole for that thing, or a special slot?

On Blum’s site they have an arrow pointing to the prong, and another picture showing the jig, but that’s about it.

View huff's profile

huff

2804 posts in 1937 days


#6 posted 01-09-2013 03:32 AM

Ben,

Regular drill bit, but I can’t remember the size for the hole at the moment, but will check tomorrow when I go out to the shop. Set-up a drill stop so you don’t drill completely through the back of your drawer box. That doesn’t hurt anything if you do, but you don’t have to have the hole all the way thru, just enough for the tab to fit.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2545 days


#7 posted 01-09-2013 03:36 AM

Motion guides are not sold in imperial measurements…….. 300, 350……..500 550, 600…etc. It is a european system and the length of the drawer side is determined by the length of the guide, the drawer front mounting method, being an additional drawer front or where the drawer front of the actual drawer is exposed. All considered you should first read the instructions before asking questions to those who haven’t a clue what they are speaking of ?

the combinations and permutations of how to install these guides and what can go wrong is virtually endless

see if you can get your money back and buy a “simple” easier high end guide

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1483 days


#8 posted 01-09-2013 03:38 AM

I have the jig and it is well worth it. Makes the the installation quick and easy for the locking device and the rear hole for the slide. The holes for the locking device need to be drilled at an angle so the jig makes this easy.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

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Moron

4666 posts in 2545 days


#9 posted 01-09-2013 03:50 AM

OMG

the jig does it all ?

who’ld a thunk ?

albeit I agree the jig, in the right hands, saves a lot of time, but its still the mind that cuts the parts out the right size and machines them correctly, and then sets the jigs

GaryL………….look at your jig and the hole and tell me the hole isnt square to the cabinet or the drawer ? unless we are speaking of the “clips” in which case they are drilled into the drawer bottom and or front in which case the drawer front is ? exposed, flush, over laid ?…..so on and so forth. Regardless, I cannot imagine being unable to secure clip to bottom of drawer ?

over and out

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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GaryL

1077 posts in 1483 days


#10 posted 01-09-2013 12:58 PM

The “clips” aka “locking devices” (I know, strange name) front holes, the ones that go into the drawer box front, not bottom, are angled slightly.
And yes, the jig has nothing to do with the drawer box constuction. It registers against the box for the locations of pilot holes and rear hole. The notch needs to be cut in by the fabricator. Lately I have been cutting the hole bottom off the back drawer piece and gluing and stapling the drawer bottom to the back. This is with Ultraply drawer bottoms, so not so much to worry about movement.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View ducky911's profile

ducky911

220 posts in 1441 days


#11 posted 01-09-2013 04:42 PM

if you make the drawer bigger than 21 than you can move the release tabs back from the front. Keeping the back setup the same.

View huff's profile

huff

2804 posts in 1937 days


#12 posted 01-09-2013 06:48 PM

ducky911,

That’s true, but then you have to move the slides back further inside the cabinet or the drawer box would stick out the front of the cabinet. You could pick up the thickness of the faceframe since he’s doing an inset drawer front, but anything more than that wouldn’t gain you anything. Another words, he could make the drawer box 21 3/4” instead of the 21 recommended. The travel length of the slide is still the same.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View huff's profile

huff

2804 posts in 1937 days


#13 posted 01-09-2013 07:21 PM

Ben,

The drill bit for drilling the holes in the back of the drawer box for the tab on the slides is 6mm. 17/64” is what I use since I don’t have a 6mm bit. Sorry, forgot to get that when I went to the shop this morning.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1621 days


#14 posted 01-09-2013 07:27 PM

You are correct in saying that the drawer should be shorter than the slide to give the illusion of a full extension when the drawer is fully opened. As the prong fits into the back of the drawer, you would need to add a packing piece to the back of the drawer and insert the prongs into that to achieve the effect you want. I wouldn’t do it though as I value the extra depth more than trying to have the back edge of the drawer lining up with the face frame.

View ducky911's profile

ducky911

220 posts in 1441 days


#15 posted 01-09-2013 10:01 PM

Huff,

You must think I am some kind of a nut!

the drawer can not stick out of the front of the cabinet…that would be nuts.

I have here in front of me four drawers 17” deep with 15” blummotions on them….they do NOt stick out the front of the cabinet…..I moved the front release clips back from the front of the drawer about 2”

showing 1 through 15 of 26 replies

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