Finishing Tips, Recipes and Tricks

Great idea, Steve!

It would be nice, once the “complete” list is created, to convert all of the information into a single document and then post it here- or on a file sharing site. That way everyone could go to a single “click” location.

Lew

Using Deft Danish Natural Oil:
Using paper towels, apply a very wet coat, keep wiping it on so the surface maintains a “wet” look. Keep this up for about 15 minutes. Then wipe dry using a new paper towel. If you encounter a sticky spot, use your wet paper towel to rewet the area and then wipe dry.

Allow to sit for about a week until you can touch the surface and it does not feel tacky. Do a quick buff-sanding with an old abralon 500-grit pad. Using paper towels again, wipe an area wet (no more than you can cover in 5-10 seconds) and then immediately wipe dry with your dry towel. Work from the top down so that drips do not fall on areas already done. Allow to dry for another 24-48 hours and you are done.

This is what the finish looks like when completed on black walnut sanded to 500 grit:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8768

-- Rich, WNY, www.nyrockingchairs.com

Lew- I think you’re on to something…
Rich- Thanks, that chair is awesome!

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

Great topic Steve. For wood turning finishes I use EEE-Ultra Shine for cutting & polishing & Shella Wax on top burnished on. I have found the application very good but like many waxes you need to repeat the process when it wears down.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

I would like to find out more about Isogard. I have seen the finished results on wood turned products & it produces an excellent finish. It is a two part epoxy type application, acetone is one of them. If anybody has any experience with it some knowledge on how it is applied would be appreciated.
http://www.collate.co.nz/nas/TechnicalFiles/512/p6643/WT514%20Isogard%20V2_0.pdf

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

Hello Steve;
—and thanks for including a link on the tung oil blog//story!

I’ve got to say as I’ve stated before, finishing is one of the best parts of the whole process for me and after working the wood and getting to the point of finishing….I actually look forward to the time spent on finishing. Hmmm, I wonder does this make me weird or….maybe it’s just that I fried my brain long ago and I’m in a daze by this time.

I am presently working on a long blog//story to be coming up soon, on the finishing of the walnut counter top, that will include some information about:

1.)—shellac, de-waxed and waxed….mixing your own and store bought….
2.)—tinting your own shellac….
3.)—how to apply and the many coats or few, like when is enough-enough….
4.)—what types of brushes are you going to use….and you might be surprised….
5.)—surprises and myth busters and all that mis-information out there, that has been promoted to make us think we can’t do or should not use shellac….
6)—and experience. Maybe I will not all-ways agree with those books that we read and maybe after reading what I have to say, you will decide to not follow what I write and thats all-right with me, but you will be informed and then you can choose you’re own path. And then also, my experience level with shellac amounts to….should I say. I mean when we start thinking about shellac, maybe we should also consult with the lac bug….

Ah yes, finishing….tried a new one out today on some 28 year old pine board and batten siding that has also been mixed in next to new pine board and batten siding. The name of that wood oil finish is Penofin….just love it.

Well I’m out of here and once again,

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://frank.wordpress.com/

Steve -

Excellent post! Great gathering of some wonderful finishing information.

David @ The Folding Rule

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

Grumpy- I’ve never seen that wax before.. I’ve been reading a little about it since your post and it seems like an awesome product. (and it looks easy, just my style)
Frank- You’re welcome Sir… when you get done, post us a quick link here
David- Thanks- great link to shellac information…

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

Here are a couple more I’ve found:
Finish for Curly maple
Staining Cherry with a less blotchy finish

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

Steve,

Great idea for a topic tab!

I think finishing is often hurried and the results show it.

A listing of finishes used for different woods, and some photos of the results would be a tremendous help.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Hey Steve, here is a link to my bog on liming.

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

Steve, Check out my blog on Pen Finish using linseed oil & Superglue
http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Grumpy/blog/5865

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

another one for the ‘favorites” pile. Thanks!

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

Great topic Steve, favorited and for sure read through several times in the future.

-- Urban logger, http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/

Holy smokes, this will keep me busy for days. Thanks. Just reading through the 1st link and as ever I am totally impressed by the lengths that fellow hobbiests go to to help others.

-- Doug, woodworking in Alabama

Here are some I’ve pulled from the net… I haven’t tried them, so take it at face value.
======================================================

Oil Varnish

The first one is for an oil/varnish blend. This finish is similar to Watco Danish Oil, Deft Danish Oil, or Minwax Antique Oil Finish.

Here are the Ingredients:

1 Part-Boiled Linseed Oil
1 Part-Varnish (I use gloss polyurethane)
1 Part-Mineral Spirits (I usually use a little bit less than this)

This finish is applied the same as the above products.

1. Wipe the finish on with a rag.
2. Let it sit for about 10 minutes.
3. Buff the remaining finish off with a clean cloth.
4. Don’t put your old rags near an open flame…They can catch on fire.

You will need to put on at least three coats. I usually put on four for the heck of it.

Each Coat needs to dry about 24 hours

You can also tint this finish with non-fibered roofing tar to get a walnut tone…I haven’t tried this yet.

Wipe-on Poly

This one is pretty simple. It is similar to Formby’s Tung Oil Finish, and Minwax wipe on polyurethane.

3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand…I like ACE because it’s cheap)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits

1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved

Again, you will probably want to put on three coats.

Paste Beeswax

This is a finish that my dad has used for years…It was also used by my grandfather.

1 Part Beeswax (It works best if you shave the beeswax with a block plane)
1 Part Turpentine

1. Mix ingredients together in a jar with a tight sealing lid. Grandpa used a Jelly jar, Dad uses a tin can.
2. When the Beeswax is dissolved your ready for business
3. If the mixture is too thin, leave the lid off and let some of the turpentine evaporate.

Wipe a thin coat of the finish on your work with a rag. Let it dry about 20 minutes or so, and buff it off.

If you add some linseed oil to the recipe you can use this as a finish for raw wood.

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

You will find some more Finishing goodies here…

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/woodidxfin.html

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=1389"