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Band saw alignment

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Forum topic by Mainiac Matt posted 01-07-2013 01:15 AM 792 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mainiac Matt

4049 posts in 995 days


01-07-2013 01:15 AM

After shredding my top rubber tire on my 14” Jet, I ordered a pair of urethane replacement tires from Sulfur Grove.

Tires are just a 1/32” or so wider than factory rubber tires. But after being stretched and conforming to the hump, I was able to get the edges tucked in all the way around, and the I rolled a dowel around between the tire and wheel to even out the stretch in the tire as best as I could.

So far so good… Remounted the wheel and blade and re-watched the Snodgrass You-Tube video on BS alignment.

And here is where my troubles start…..

No matter where I set the blade to run on the tire, it is walking back and forth over 1/8”.

It never did this b4…..

Any ideas?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!


10 replies so far

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10988 posts in 1357 days


#1 posted 01-07-2013 03:24 AM

What width blade are you using? Have you tensioned it properly before spinning the wheels? I could not get an 1/8” blade to track on my 17” saw. I called Grizz for help and we went through all the usual fixes to no avail and then the tech guy suggested decreasing the tension. INSTANT fix!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Loren's profile

Loren

7625 posts in 2314 days


#2 posted 01-07-2013 03:42 AM

Do you have another blade?

When fussing with sewing machines, you replace
the needle first if it’s not working right. With
bandsaws try another blade to diagnose.

Band saw tracking is something of an art
in my opinion, but you can start by making
the wheels co-planar. Co-planar tuning is not
the only method, but it does work well
and is worth the effort with some saws.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2097 posts in 855 days


#3 posted 01-07-2013 04:08 AM

I am not so sure that your stretching/tucking idea was the way to go. It might have been better to simply attach the tire and either trim that 1/32 off or just leave it. The blade is supposed to be in the center (more or less) anyhow and the wheel should have a slight crown to it so it seems to me the tiny bit of excess should not be a bother. Maybe the stretching is allowing the tire to squeegee around ??

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4049 posts in 995 days


#4 posted 01-07-2013 02:33 PM

blade is a 1/2” Timberwolf that has been lightly used and is still very sharp. I may have another in the shop to test… but I’m not sure. I don’t use the BS often and change blades very infrequently.

Crown is in the wheel and transmits through to the tire…

I’ll try backing off the tension.

Interestingly, Snodgrass says do not attempt co-planar alignment.

I wondered if I shouldn’t have trimmed the tire width with an exacto blade…. I may pull the tire off and do that if I can’t figure this out.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View toolie's profile

toolie

1764 posts in 1295 days


#5 posted 01-07-2013 02:49 PM

1. dump the t-wolf blade. i’l bet the weld is imperfect. is it doing this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrxBP8YBKYM (look @ 25secs through 35 secs). if yes, bad weld.

2. get a lennox blade from iturra design. tell lou about your problem and ask him to please weld one up perfectly for diagnostic purposes.

i’d do the new blade before struggling wiith the tires again. i spent 2 months chasing a problem on a POS jet 18” BS (new urethane tires before i contacted lou) and only lou diagnosed the problem and fix correctly. good luck.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3199 posts in 840 days


#6 posted 01-07-2013 04:40 PM

Please make sure the blade is properly tensioned and tracked.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4049 posts in 995 days


#7 posted 01-07-2013 05:54 PM

Yes toolie… that’s exactly what it’s doing…. but I don’t think the weld is bad, as it didn’t do this b4.

However, when I cleaned the blade prior to re-installing, I did notice that there is an ever-so-slightly kinked section…. which I was able to mostly bend back into smooth.

I’ll give Iturra a call and see if he can help me.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4049 posts in 995 days


#8 posted 01-07-2013 06:09 PM

Just got off the phone with Lou…

That man obviously knows about bandsaws.

With out me even mentioning it, he says “check to see if the blade is kinked”

So now I’ve got 3 new ones waitin’ for the brown truck to bring them home to Papa.

Call Itura at 904 642 2802 and you won’t regret it.

He says that if they set up a web. site they’d be flooded with customers and he wouldn’t be able to take care of them all the way he’d like.

When’s the last time you heard somebody tell you that customer service was more important than sales volume?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2097 posts in 855 days


#9 posted 01-07-2013 07:23 PM

Ya, Iturra Design is a good bandsaw source. I bought a bunch of stuff off him – not being on the Internet is certainly bucking the trend . . .

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View toolie's profile

toolie

1764 posts in 1295 days


#10 posted 01-07-2013 08:52 PM

ssnvet…........glad you were able to get the issue resolved. BS performance is HEAVILY dependent on blade quality.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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