Newbie with a rust question

The splotches shouldn’t effect performance any as long as they’re sub-surface. You might be able to get them off by working at the surface with some sandpaper and WD-40, but you need to do a large area around them to avoid creating a divot. I’d start somewhere in the 100-150 grit range and work up to whatever level of shine you want to see….it’ll take some effort.

Maybe someone has a chemical suggestion that’s less work….

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

I use naval jelly with steel wool for rust removal. I then clean with mineral spirits and apply a coat of Johnson’s paste wax.

-- Kepy

I got my TS after it spent 3 days under water, so it was worse than yours. Naval jelly or almost any decent rust remover and scotchbrite pads will work. All advice above is legit as well. There are many way to skin the cat.

I use fluid film to keep rust away. Its a little easier than wax, but either works just fine. What I like about the fluid film, if I leave a piece of “not so dry” lumber laying on the top, a quick spray and it will remove the surface rust. (I work with green lumber on occasion)

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Don W,

What exactly is fluid film and where do you buy it?

MisterBill

Fluid film

but I buy it at a local auto part store.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

here’s a portion of a unisaw restoration video series that deals with cleaning the CI top:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSJjN8jvdp4&feature=relmfu

moving to progressively finer wet paper grits will result in greater smoothness and finish. here’s my uisaw top before and after:

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

naval jelly and a long sanding block for finishing,I use mothers on my top, but then I use polish also and rough grit to start then a fine grit to smooth out the rough grit does that make sense, anyway my rust problems have stopped but I keep my saws planer jointer all covered with a blue type tarp all the time they only cost 10.00 or so and save you alot of headaches down the road fighting rust, but my shop is a metal building with no heat so I spend alot of time oiling and polishing but not like I use to, I remember when I got my first tablesaw I put it together and took all the cosmo off and left it a couple days well it rained every day come back out and it looked bad it took a whole 3 hrs to get the rust off it was brand new so I learned my lesson keep them covered.

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country