|Forum topic by 404 - Not Found||posted 594 days ago||768 views||0 times favorited||8 replies|
594 days ago
No matter how I look at this job, all I can see is pitfalls.
It is going to be beech, the diagram above shows board orientation only.
There’s a profile to be routed on the ends and front edges.
If I make it from solid beech, the pieces will contract and expand at different rates and eventually it won’t be right. There’s also the end grain to end grain joints which more than likely won’t be perfect. It will inevitably be weak at the joints too.
The only redeeming quality of doing it this way is it wouldn’t take long to make or be terribly complicated to do either.
I could veneer the whole thing on a sheet of mdf. The downside being this will take an enormous amount of time, taking in to account the edges will have to be lipped with solid, then veneer over the top of the lippings, then there’s the curved centre piece to do as well. And to stop it puckering up, it will have to be done both sides. With my primitive veneering set up and the reach that is required for clamping where the boards turn the dogleg, it’s going to be a pain, a test of ultimate will, a heartbreak climb uphill…_
Veneer sections f&b on mdf, join them together. This is still going to be time consuming but easier than option 2, simply for gluing up. On the downside to doing this, we return to the weak joints mentioned in option 1.
This is where you guys come in. What have I missed? What would you do?
I’d appreciate any suggestions or insights you may have. Option 2 is my preferred method, but I’m really not looking forward to doing it. As a postscript, the primitive veneering method mentioned includes making the 1/16 veneers myself. There is a very good chance that my saw won’t be able to handle that much beech.