Gorilla glue

Ditto, but my favorite is Titebond III. I have a small bottle of Gorilla glue I’ve had for several years. Bought it because of all the hype. Never use it.

-- Bruce from Central New York

Brunob;

Hi! The first bottle I had for ages. I used that after I read all the hype. I didn’t like it, I used it just to get rid of it. But, I bought another bottle & a bigger size. I found out that it works great on filling holes & gaps, the are not exposed to the eye. It’s like using STUFF, that you spray in to fill gaps. But this is in a liquid form.
I haven’t used Titebond 3 yet. What’s it like??

Not into the Gorilla glue; if you get it someplace you don’t want (squeeze-out, or your hands), it is very gooey and sticky to remove. With Titebond, you just use water – and according to a test in FWW I saw recently, stronger.

-- -Be Blessed!, Patrick

Never used it myself—even if I would like to try, it’s not on sale where I live—but all the hype comes from this:

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/msojka/blog/5594

Hope it helps.

-- Jojo, shopless in Kyoto · http://www.japanese-woodworking-tools.com/ · http://twitter.com/japanesetools

I use it all of the time. While my main “go to” glues are TB III and Lee Valley’s GF glue, the GG definitely has a purpose. I do a lot of mixed media (Wood/aluminum/brass/copper/stone/corian/glass) and use a lot of oily exotics, and the GG/poly glue is one of the few glues that will bond them…..and I’ve tried them all.

So: For “regular” glue ups? No real advantage….but want to get funky? It works great.

My .02

Ryan

-- If you can't set a good example, at least serve as a horrible warning... www.rarewoodcreations.com

Im in the same boat as Jojo, it is not on sale here, however i would like to try it just for the experiance.

Callum

-- Look great, get your TTK merchandise now! http://www.printfection.com/thetimberkid/ Check out my site http://thetimberkid.blogspot.com/

It’s good stuff I use it sometimes.it is messy no doubt but it is also good glue very good.don’t get it on your fingers otherwise you will have to wear it off.I reckon it’s a great product for certain applications.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

can’t stand gorilla glue, it’s a mess to use. I use titebond III, it has almost 10 minutes of open time, and is alot stronger than gorilla glue. I’ve used it several times and then tried a little test that I had heard Sam Maloof tried(not sure if he did or not, just a rumor from a friend who used to visit with Mr. Maloof once a year). I glued 2 pieces of wood together with gorilla glue and let them dry. I then tried to break the 2 pieces apart, they broke at the glue line. You don’t have that problem with most PVA glues.
It’s promoted as a waterproof glue, but titebond III is waterproof also. But it’s like everything else, it comes down to what you prefer to use. I prefer not to use it.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

My go to glue is TBIII also, I started using it after I read a review in a magazine. It is so tough stuff, once it dries the wood will break before the glue does. My only complaint is that if you get it somewhere you don’t want it and it dries it is a pain to clean up. It will sand and makes a great gap filler if you have the patience to apply a couple of coats to get it to stick all the way. if you get it on your clothes you need to wash it out quickly as it will soak into the fabric and will not come out.

I have had luck with denatured alcohol to get it to soften….but still haven’t found a great solvent for it.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Titebond III is my choice. Epoxy is my next choice over Gorilla Glue for tough jobs.

-- Pat, Colorado

I’ve used a couple of bottles of it, but no more. Yeah, it works really great, but it does ooze and is a mess. What I really don’t like is that after a while it gets harder to squeeze out – on one bottle I had to use a C-clamp to get it out! So I don’t think I’ve ever used a whole bottle. I’m thinking other glues hold just as well, and at least you get what you pay for.

-- Don, Royersford, PA

I wouldn’t have tried it, if it wasn’t for the Gorilla Glue Challenge.
It came at a perfect time—as I was about to glue rocks to my “fairy door”. It worked perfectly—fitting to the odd shape of the stone and foaming up to fill the crevices. As for the excess, I just cut if off with an exacto knife.
As for messy on the fingers, I have a bowl of water ready (you’re supposed to have one surface damp) and I use a wee little varnish remover (or something like that.. can’t remember the exact container… ) and off it comes.

As with most things it is “right tool for the right job”, all depends on what you are trying to do.

I remember one of the friends of “Roarockit” used it for veneering layers of wood together for a skateboard. It was pretty funky after coming out of the veneering bag.

-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

For Christmas last year I’d just made a new piano stool on my lathe for my wife, and used gorilla glue for the first time….When my 360-lb sister-in-law sat on it and began to play, I got really nervous. But all’s well! Oh, yeah,...check my tagline, which I’ve been using for quite a while….

-- If Stradivarius was alive today, he'd be using Gorilla Glue.

I use it and like it, but only for situations where I’m joining a non-wood surface to a wood surface, like gluing a rare-earth magnet or a piece of T-track to a jig or fixture, otherwise I [mainly] use TB III or (if doing restoration) TB liquid hide.

-- ShopCat

I will use Gorilla glue on projects that might get immersed or exposed to water on a regular basis. Otherwise I use Tite-Bond III.

Yes, it is very messy; however, I have found that I can plan for that. Especially so if I can remember not to use to much of the the stuff. Otherwise it looks like a can of the spray foam exploded on my project.

-- Chris

One of the WW mags (forget which one) had a joint stress test article several months ago and Gorilla had one of the lowest ratings of how much force it took to brak the joint I’ve used it occasionally but dont like the mess or cleaning up the hardened foamout. For some of the oilier woods though it’s one of the small handful of options out there where PVA wont work. I still think I’d prefer epoxy but for a few select things I’d still use Gorilla or other polyurethane glue.

-- Use the fence Luke

Gorilla Glue has it’s place as stated above. I use Titebond III because of it’s longer open time (10-15 minutes) and it’s water resistance. Lately I’ve been using Titebond II Fluorescent and a black light, it shows glue spots that you can’t see with the naked eye.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

PS – Information about Titebond II Fluorescent Glue can be found with the like below.

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductCategoryTB.asp?prodcat=1

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

Thanks for the post, John.
My eyes are getting older, and it seems like wife’s are getting better, I’ll be ordering that glue.

-- http://www.twinoaksgrowers.com

I like it for birdhouses and other projects that use porous woods like cedar and have to remain outside all year.
I haven’t found much use for it in making furniture yet.
Maybe this contest will show me some new tricks.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner