How to cut these angles?

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Forum topic by 1thumb posted 01-04-2013 01:01 AM 911 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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78 posts in 2183 days

01-04-2013 01:01 AM

Prelim talks on fabricating something similar to this music producers desk. Pretty simple actually other than the, for lack of a better term, wrap around top. I’m thinking of finding the proper angles, attaching a strait-edge and plugging in the circular saw, finish out w/jig saw to avoid overcuts. Not sure if surface will be laminate or oak plywood. Any other input on layout, fabrication would be appreciated. I’ll be making this onsite
Sorry, doesnt look like a good upload on photo. dimensions approx: 96”x 30” d

4 replies so far

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4037 posts in 2261 days

#1 posted 01-05-2013 05:03 PM

The onsite fab adds a layer of complication because you don’t have access to the accuracy of stationary equipment. I would do all I could to pre-cut, fit and dry assemble in the shop before a dust free assembly on site. The customers respond very favorably to a craftsman with the skill to fabricate off site and assemble a precision fit keeping their site clean and available to them until day of installation. They also appreciate the quick turnaround of their space that way.
Pushing a circular saw across a laminate or veneered surface is a night mare waiting to happen, mostly due to chip out. If you can control that, then it will just be a bad dream. Been there, done that. High risk of taking regretable shortcuts.

Having said that, and determining that there is just no way to preassemble, I would bring my Festool saws (plunge and sabre), guide and some masking tape. Lacking that I would bring a router with a bearing bit to trim the fitted joint. The router approach almost guarantees a chip free joint. Festool has excellent dust collection capabilities.

No special tips on layout, just the usual careful measuring, drawings or templates, or story sticks.

Don’t know how to be more helpful given this (lack of) detail, but will respond to more questions.

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL One should always prefer the probable impossible to the improbable possible.

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78 posts in 2183 days

#2 posted 01-06-2013 07:16 PM

Thanks Dan,

Don’t have a shop other than a couple pair of saw horses I can set up in the back yard. I’m a mobile, millwork machine, a finish carpenter w/truck and tools. The client knows this, wants me to knock off the music producers desk in the picture and save him money. Searched for that image but didn’t get a hit from
Based on others I looked at, I’d estimate the cost of this one at $3k.

Of course by saving him money sacrifices have to be made. Some grain tear around the edges of the top will be one of them. Good blade on the skill saw and the grain tear will be minimal, I think. Will need to set up a strait edge so the half round or whatever I trim out the raw edges out with will lay nice and flat. Will mock up a template for the top, put it on saw horses let him sit behind it. I like the the flush cut router bit idea, but I plan on doubling up top, two 3/4’s or a 3/4 and 1/2 sheet, temp them together w/brads and cut them at the same time.

Now, a woodworker or furniture maker probably wouldn’t like it but I think it will look great. Not much to it, a top, two boxes, one glass door and a skirt. I think it will be fun. Quoted him $1500-1750 maybe more depending on finish and price for 12 quality casters. Thanks for the response and sorry for the long winded reply. Like your website, bookmarked it. My father worked in Olney back in the 1950’s.

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3674 days

#3 posted 01-06-2013 08:14 PM

I would consider making a template for he top out of 1/4”
tempered hardboard. It’s cheap and tough. Rough cut
the inside corners with a jig saw, then use a pattern
routing bit to make the final shape. If you make the
template carefully, you’ll have straighter (and square)
edges and you can glue hardwood lippings right to
them and have a very nice glue line. Of course if you
wanted to put plastic laminate on top the nice glue
lines wouldn’t be seen.

Many of the consoles I’ve seen like this have a real
wide lipping (like 2” or 3”) rounded over after being
attached with a large radius roundover bit. The
lipping is usually attached after the laminate is glued
on and trimmed. Without a lipping planer ($$$) however
you run a very serious risk of carving up the laminate
or veneer trying to flush trim the top lipping flush
with the laminate. One workaround is to make the
lipping proud by 1/8” or so with a small roundover on
the inside edge, using biscuits to align the glue-up.
This sort of lipping is not an annoyance and controls
spills as well. The easy way to do it without the
lipping planer is to just do your best at flushing the
lipping, flush fill any gouges with bondo and glue
laminate on top, then shape the lipping and laminate
edge together.

I hope this helps. The customer will probably want
the nice details like the large lipping and will probably
be willing to pay for it if you explain how nice it
will be.

Are you going to do the finishing?

If so, the time spent finishing will work out to a lot
more than the time it takes to apply and trim

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78 posts in 2183 days

#4 posted 01-06-2013 08:28 PM

Thanks Loren,

Pretty sure if I go ahead with this it will be the oak veneer w/o laminate. I noticed that large round over detail too. Depending on what he wants I’m planning and doing some pre-fab applied moulding around the edges. I discussed the finishing with him and you are correct, that will take a long time depending on how many coats, how glossy of a finish he wants.

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