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Thoughts and recommedations on table saw extension table

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Forum topic by dschlic1 posted 467 days ago 2521 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dschlic1

143 posts in 467 days


467 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: table saw table

I am new to this forum and would like to get some thoughts and advice on designing and building an extension table for my new table saw. Santa brought me a small bench type table saw for Christmas. I used it to make a tool hanging pegboard in the shop area of mu garage. This project started me thinking about how to improve the usability of this saw. The first improvement I am thinking about is to increase the table area of the saw.

I want to increase the size on all four sides of the machine. So I am looking at starting with a 4’ x 4’ table with the saw more or less in the center. When I use the saw, I mount (bolt) it to two heavy duty sawhorses. These provide a very steady and soild stand. Becasue of this I am thinking of mounting the table to the saw, rather than mounting the saw to the table. The two sides of the saw have mounting holes to fasten the table to it. Going this route will allow me to store both the saw and the table seperately in out of the way places.

I intend to frame the table with 1×4 and 2×4 lumber for bracing. I also intend to cover the table, once completed with a laminate (Formica or such). The table of the saw measures 26” wide amd 20” deep. I would like some thoughts and advice on the material to use for the top. Because this table will be portable, wieght is a consideration. I am considering the following materials:

1. 1/2” MDF. Good flat surface, but heavy
2. 1/2” softwood plywood. Warpage my be a problem
3. 1/2” hardwood plywood.
4. 1/4” or 1/8” hardboard. Would need extra bracing, but is light.

I am leaning to using the hardboard.


14 replies so far

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1656 days


#1 posted 467 days ago

I wouldn’t put the saw in the middle of the table just because its dangerous having to reach too far to access the saw and because it might make mounting a fence very difficult. I would suggest searching LJs for tale saw workstations…there are tons of them.

But, basically, I just wanted to bump this…it’s a good question.

Welcome to LJs!

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2299 posts in 1075 days


#2 posted 467 days ago

I’d use columbia purebond plywood. It’s poplar core, so it’s pretty light. I haven’t had any issues with warping.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

143 posts in 467 days


#3 posted 466 days ago

I may change the placement of the saw in the table. The reason I first was looking at puttint it in the middle is that this table will really be used only for cutting large sheets and panels. The large size already makes handling difficult. However I wanted to get enough leadin to the saw. The table on the saw measures about 20” in the cutting direction. Once the large peieces are cut, the table will be removed.

Ok, I looked up “columbia purebond plywood” on the web and it is hardwood ply. There is a wholesaler locally, I will have to see if there is a dealer.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

756 posts in 523 days


#4 posted 466 days ago

I like Baltic birch ply. No voids, smooth surface, many equal thickness plies. Comes in a 5×5 sheet, various thicknesses. Beautiful stuff. Any plywood can warp, however, so you need to check that out when you purchase. Even though I have a pickup that easily carries 4X8 sheets, I have to carry the BB sheets on the roof rack—no big deal as long as you don’t have to drive too far.
You’ll want to route grooves for your miter gauge or crosscut sled.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2299 posts in 1075 days


#5 posted 466 days ago

BB ply is great but can be pretty heavy since it’s pretty much all solid birch wood. Great stuff though; I mainly use it for jigs.

I ordered my purepond online from home depot.
I used it to make my shop cabinets.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1683 posts in 1126 days


#6 posted 466 days ago

i’m going to do this with a little 10” c-man POS that i keep wall hung for when friends need a hand on site:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MJHT7I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View doncutlip's profile

doncutlip

2832 posts in 2054 days


#7 posted 465 days ago

Here's what I built

-- Don, Royersford, PA

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2299 posts in 1075 days


#8 posted 465 days ago

Don, that’s a real nice outfeed table.
I added it to my faves to hopefully build later this year.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View robjeffking's profile

robjeffking

26 posts in 604 days


#9 posted 465 days ago

Have you considered 3/4 MDF instead of 1/2” for more rigidty. This is how my table turned out using 3/4

View Lynden's profile

Lynden

45 posts in 1645 days


#10 posted 465 days ago

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

143 posts in 467 days


#11 posted 464 days ago

In my wanderings over the internet I discovered several after market fence systems. I am seriousily considering going that route. Because my saw is rather unique and non-standard, I will have to fabricate a frame out of angle that bolts to my saw that the after markey fences can then be mounted to. A sample design:

Some fences I am looking at:
A very unique fence

Vega Fence System

Biesemeyer 42 Commercial Fence

View toolie's profile

toolie

1683 posts in 1126 days


#12 posted 464 days ago

i’d probably save the money on the much improved fence system and get something like a 4512 from HD using a “20% off any single item” HF coupon. for $400, you’d have a much better fence than you have now and a 1.5hp belt driven dual voltage motor, CI table top, a riving knife, an integrated mobile base, better dust collection, a 3 year guaranty and the backing (with registration) of ridgid’s LSA. guess my feeling is, no matter how expensive the lipstick is that you put on a pig, it’s still, in the end, a pig. unless that’s one very special bench top TS.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2299 posts in 1075 days


#13 posted 464 days ago

+1 on what toolie said. If you’re planning to drop a bunch of time and $$ on upgrading your current saw a new one might be a better choice.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

143 posts in 467 days


#14 posted 462 days ago

Just got a price on fabrication of the metal frame. Way over budget. So I am back to making the table out of wood. I am going to make it out of 1/2” birch plywood. Before that I will need to make some jigs. I will probably start posting these as projects.

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