Forrest saw blades

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Forum topic by Steve posted 01-03-2013 03:13 AM 1252 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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188 posts in 2023 days

01-03-2013 03:13 AM

Stopped in at Lee Valley today and purchased a 10” Duraline HI-A/T 1/8” kerf blade, and a 8” Forrest Dado-King, what I want to know is how the Duraline blade would be for ripping veneer plywood. If this blade is not adequate for ripping veneer plywoods which one would you suggest I purchase? Also need a good blade for ripping hardwoods up to 8/4. These blades are costly the two I purchased today were around $450.00 I have heard great reviews on the Forrest blades and in my opinion you get what you pay for.

4 replies so far

View HillbillyShooter's profile


5811 posts in 2316 days

#1 posted 01-03-2013 04:31 AM

Rip away, since you don’t really rip plywood as it has alternating layers with the grain direction at 90 degrees to each other. If you’re talking about cutting with the grain of the surface as ripping, that’s no problem as the Hi-A/T does it great. The Hi-A/T shines at cutting across the grain of the surface, minimizing any tear out top and bottom. I have the same blade and love it. Also, check out the new Forrest 70-tooth plywood blade at considerably less and does near the same job (have it too and use it most the time,saving the Hi-A/T for really good veneer). See:

For ripping, I use either of these: (1)

or (2)

Good luck and enjoy. I agree Forrest are the best currently available and you get what you pay for.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1169 posts in 2554 days

#2 posted 01-03-2013 04:49 AM

Considering Forrest says that blade was designed for cutting – among other things – veneer plywood, I’d say it would probably work just fine. Make a few test cuts and see what happens.

I’ve never used that blade, but I’ve sawn a bunch of MDF core veneer ply using Freud 50T combo blades (both the full and thin kerf versions, LU84R/LU83R) and they both do an excellent job if they are kept clean.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3671 days

#3 posted 01-03-2013 04:58 AM

Hardwoods move after ripping so arguably the quality
of cut doesn’t matter that much – you’ll still have to
joint the ripped edge.

However, as a practical matter, the Forrest Woodworker
30 or 40T blade is very, very good and to some extent
you’ll be able to rip glue joints with them. Standard
kerf blades yield cleaner edges if you have the power
in the saw to drive them. Forrest does a good job
on the blades, but their are a lot of decent brands
that don’t cost as much – Freud, et al. Just avoid the
thin kerf blades if you want the cleanest cuts from
a cabinet saw.

View knotscott's profile (online now)


8056 posts in 3399 days

#4 posted 01-03-2013 11:13 AM

The Duraline will leave an extremely clean cut in plywood, though it’ll pose some resistance in thicker materials depending on which tooth count you bought. If you’re concerned about price, I’d wouldn’t bat an eye at going with the Infinity 010-080 Ultrasmooth or the Freud LU80 instead of the Duraline…..all fairly similar designs.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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