LumberJocks

Drilling a blank on lathe

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by dpoisson posted 01-01-2013 03:43 PM 852 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View dpoisson's profile

dpoisson

172 posts in 1611 days


01-01-2013 03:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: lathe drilling chuck

Howdy folks, I am at a point in my life where I want to start drilling on the lathe. I usually make game calls, but looking at making other things as well (perhaps small bowls eventually, ornaments, etc).

I know I need a jacob’s chuck to hold the drill bit.

I also need a 4 jaw chuck to hold the piece of wood.

So far, so good. Where it gets a bit fuzzy is with the jaws and what they can hold. For my game calls, I need to hold game calls blanks (as well as the ornaments I have in mind) that are 1.5” to 2” sq. I would hold these on the outside. Does it matter if these aren’t perfectly square?

For bowls, I just know I’d like to eventually make some…I pretty much know nothing about them. My lathe has 6 (8?)” swing with 1/2HP. So I could make platters or small bowls with it I believe.

In a perfect world, I would buy a chuck that can do everything I want it to without purchasing extra set of jaws.

Would this fit the bill?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CUG3418CCX.html

Cheers!

David

-- http://picasaweb.google.ca/dpoisson


13 replies so far

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

811 posts in 807 days


#1 posted 01-01-2013 04:04 PM

Chuck the game call between centers and turn a round area for the 4 jaw chuck to grip. Additionally, turn a slight taper so that the round part farthest from the end is slightly smaller, this will cause the chuck jaws to pull the wood into the chuck and help keep it from coming off of the chuck.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View lew's profile

lew

10100 posts in 2452 days


#2 posted 01-01-2013 04:09 PM

Looks like a pretty good deal. Although I haven’t personally used this particular brand, the reviews look positive.

As for your question about square blanks, no- they don’t have to be perfectly square. Here is a link to an adapter to help hold blanks such as you describe:
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/AuxPenJaws/auxiliarypenblank_jaws.htm

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View tyskkvinna's profile

tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1682 days


#3 posted 01-01-2013 04:21 PM

If your blank is not perfectly square – or if you manage to mount it without it being square. Once you drill the hole and mount it again, you will make it round and lose any excess that was on the larger side of the not-square.

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View jeepturner's profile

jeepturner

925 posts in 1489 days


#4 posted 01-01-2013 04:25 PM

I have a similar chuck. It requires two hands to insert the rods to tighten the chuck. I will soon be purchasing a chuck that I can tighten with one hand while helping to hold the position on the work piece. I don’t know where you shop but Rockler has a chuck on sale right now also but it is $213.00 Oneway Talon chuck. The Nova at Woodcraft is $150. I know that they cost more, but from my perspective I purchased the one I have now for ninety bucks but as the holes used for tightening get looser and looser and the promise on one that works better is still out there, I know that eventually I will spend the addition money to buy the better chuck.

-- Mel,

View dpoisson's profile

dpoisson

172 posts in 1611 days


#5 posted 01-01-2013 05:59 PM

tyskkvinna: So, I’d just be loosing a bit of material, but I would still be able to drill a hole in it.

jeepturner: I am aware that it requires two hands to tighten, but alas, I can’t aford a oneway (or better) chuck right now. So far, the stuff I got from PSI has worked fairly well.

I’m still perplex as to my question regarding what can and cannot be “grabbed” by the included jaws though.
It comes with the following jaws:

#1 Step jaw gripping: External: 3/32” to 1-7/8”, Internal: 11/16” to 3-3/8” #2 Standard Jaw gripping: External: 1-1/2” to 3-1/8”, Internal: 2” to 3-7/8”

From what I can see, I could easily grab onto a call blank (external) with either. What about a bowl or platter. Are either of these jaws grabbing a dovetail recess (is that how they are called?) in a bowl or platter?

Thanks!

Fish

-- http://picasaweb.google.ca/dpoisson

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5450 posts in 2281 days


#6 posted 01-01-2013 06:27 PM

There is such a chuck selling here with a lot of jaws for a similar price I have never used one but there is also another very similar cheap chuck called a Fox chuck comes with a set of jaws sells here for about eighty pounds plus del.I bought one and must honestly say it was one of the worst investments I made in woodturning. Everything I tried to hold on it eventually worked it’s way loose and came flying out towards my face.I ended up giving it explaining what I felt about it to a friend who wanted it for a spare, but I would say chucking is very important to get right first time.Please rethink your ideas and buy a better one imho and you won’t regret your purchase like I did. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View REO's profile

REO

631 posts in 770 days


#7 posted 01-01-2013 07:43 PM

if they give an inside and outside gripping range they will have been made with a gripping surface on both the inside and outside. They will grip a tenon or a recess. I have one that I have used for several years and it still works well. although it is important to get your workpiece tight it is not necessary that you tighten it until until the part dies again. over time you will get a feel for it. chucking out of square parts will be a little iffy there is a good chance for movement. someone else posted a good workaround by turning the end round between centers first. there is no need to remove the chuck and then reinstall it. just get a spur drive that has a straight section next to the working end (many do) and chuck it up in the fourjaw.

View bake's profile

bake

357 posts in 2374 days


#8 posted 01-01-2013 08:00 PM

David,
I have the chuck you are interested in, and it works fine. They sell a pen drilling jaw set for it that would work well for your game calls and such.
As Tyskkvinna said your wood does not have to be perfectly square. I use the pen jaws to drill all kinds of stuff, lots of deer antler.

-- I love the smell of Home Depot in the morning, it smells like.......carpentry. Bake, Bar Lazy U Woodworks, Lehi,UT.

View Kreegan's profile

Kreegan

1452 posts in 843 days


#9 posted 01-02-2013 02:04 AM

I have that chuck set and have used it for bowls and a platter. I’ve used the #2 jaws to grip a tenon. I have also used the woodworm screw to hold a bowl blank in place while turning a recess on the bottom then using the step jaws.

View dpoisson's profile

dpoisson

172 posts in 1611 days


#10 posted 01-15-2013 06:45 PM

thanks everyone for your replies.

I have a final question that’s related: Can any 4 jaw set grab externally a square or round (dowel) piece of wood?

Cheers!

-- http://picasaweb.google.ca/dpoisson

View Kreegan's profile

Kreegan

1452 posts in 843 days


#11 posted 01-15-2013 06:59 PM

No, not well enough that you’d actually want to use it. For example, with the PSI utility chuck you get a set of pin jaws. I would not use those to hold wood on the outside. The interior gripping surface is too small and the danger of the wood getting pulled off too high. With most jaw sets, there will be measurements telling you the interior and exterior holding capabilities. If the jaws don’t have interior or exterior, that means you shouldn’t use them to hold wood that way.

View dpoisson's profile

dpoisson

172 posts in 1611 days


#12 posted 01-15-2013 07:26 PM

Kreegan: Maybe I wasn’t clear, my bad. I understand that for each set of jaw, there is going to be a range of interior and exterior sizes it can grab. I was more concerned with the shape of what it can grab.

I’m guessing it can grab round and squares without problem, since you’re drilling a square block and you would grab a round recess to turn a bowl. Right?

Fish

-- http://picasaweb.google.ca/dpoisson

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2627 posts in 1048 days


#13 posted 01-15-2013 08:06 PM

First chuck the square end in your chuck and put a live center in the tail stock and turn a cylinder at the tail end. Then swap ends, complete the cylinder and finish your turning. Then remove live center and replace w/ drill chuck and drill away. It it doesn’t have to be perfectly square for this to work but it helps if it is reasonably square and you should mark centers on both ends before you start.

-- Bondo Gaposis

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase