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1990 38-802 unisaw 1 1/2 to 2hp. Yay or nay?!

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Forum topic by Tony_nubee posted 01-01-2013 06:17 AM 1519 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


01-01-2013 06:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

Hello all
I don’t know what it says about me doing this in the new year eve but here we go:

I just found a right tilting 10” Delta Unisaw /tilting Arbor Saw. It’s a 38-801 with 1 1/2 go on 110v or 2hp on 220v. Serial #90C17880. Built in 1990 (heard from seller)and it says made in USA on it. The guy says it has the trunnion installed to cabinet not the table and its not a single pulley belt ( has 3). I was concerned since I had heard the tilting arbor saw is not the real unisaw and it on the lable on this saw it says “unisaw 10” tilting arbor saw”. The saw looks in good condition but does not come with fence, extention table, or motor cover. Also I don’t see any type of blade guard or any mechanism to prevent binding such as a riwing knife n such. The guy is asking $500 and says is flexible on price a bit. What y’all think. Is this a saw I want to have?
Extention table with drawers, Biesemeyer Fence ( 47D x 72w), Kreg Miter Fence / Cross Cut Attachment, Heavy duty magnetic cover board, Dado Set, Multiple Extra Blades, Low Clearance Rolling Stand. He wants $1050

There is another nice looking unisaw from 1968 that is US made, 83-621, 115 volts (1.5 HP) or 230 Volts (3 HP), has everything such as

A bit pricy? What do you think. Which one to buy if any and howmuch to offer on each?

Thanks for your help


13 replies so far

View LukieB's profile

LukieB

921 posts in 988 days


#1 posted 01-01-2013 06:26 AM

Ha….probably the same thing it says about me relying a couple mins later, LOL

Point out all those flaws and offer him 300. When he says no, work your way up to 350…...walk away at 375.

Unless you need all those acessories, but seems like you could get all that stuff new for around the same price.

-- Lucas, "Someday woodworks will be my real job, until then, there's this http://www.melbrownfarmsupply.com"

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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


#2 posted 01-01-2013 03:47 PM

Thanks LukieB. That sounds like a good plan. I wonder what would be a ok price for the expensive one. Since I want to have a extension table and biesmeyer fence bigger than 36 and a mobile base. I guess I have to find out howmuch they cost me to bring the cheaper saw up to the level I want. I also wanted to make sure that the cheaper saw I’d the real deal and not the tilting arbor but since it has the trunnion attached to cabinet it should be a real unisaw, right? Although it has 2hp motor as oppose to the usual 3 go and up.

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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


#3 posted 01-01-2013 03:50 PM

Sorry the damn spell check on my phone keeps changing my words :) hence all the typos in the previous post.

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

804 posts in 769 days


#4 posted 01-01-2013 03:52 PM

From reading your post I understand that the HP changes with the voltage? From college engineering classes I thought that HP was fixed and changing the voltage changed the current draw. Am I misunderstanding?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

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toolie

1762 posts in 1287 days


#5 posted 01-01-2013 04:27 PM

some motors do develope more HP in higher voltages, but double seems a bit much. from the OP’s description of those saws, they don’t “feel” legit i’d keep looking.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1817 days


#6 posted 01-01-2013 06:04 PM

The first saw you mentioned is a hybrid Unisaw…it’s worth every bit of his asking price depending on condition and accessories. It should look like my 1993 3hp Unisaw pictured here…

I’d venture to say that the one listed will be the same saw as mine except for the motor.

It can be hard getting a relatively recent vintage Unisaw, regardless of motor-type, for prices in that range. Beats putting the same money down on a saw at a big box store.

I would offer $400 since it doesn’t have a fence. I consider that a blessing since you can spend less on the saw and add exactly the fence you want. Extensions can be built (or added with the fence) and motor covers are often lost with these saws. Again, motor covers are easily built…and I recommend doing that anyway because then you can customize it with the right dust collection ports.

Definitely try to get him down a little because of the need to replace what’s missing, but don’t insult him.

The second one is less of a good deal because you just don’t know what you are getting condition-wise with all the accessories. Plus, a saw that age does have some risk that, IMO, isn’t worth that kind of money.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View lowellmk's profile

lowellmk

61 posts in 630 days


#7 posted 01-01-2013 06:36 PM

I have to agree with Jesse regarding the HP.

I also think this was the hybrid saw. I had one and sold it a few years back. Had issues with alignment and accuracy – could have been a lemon saw.

I also agree with the $350 upper limit. Don’t forget, you are going to have to run around, collecting replacement pieces to make this saw whole. At the end of the day, you’ll be paying close to the price of a new saw but will have no warrantee.

-- Wag more, bark less.

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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


#8 posted 01-01-2013 11:22 PM

So here is my question. Don’t the hybrid versions have their trunnion attached to the table instead of cabinet. This one’s trunnion is attached to the cabinet and has the 3 pulley belt ( says the owner says) !

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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


#9 posted 01-01-2013 11:28 PM

Honestly, I have considered a new grizzly such as the G0690 or the g1023. However, I keep hearing so much about the unisaw that makes it hard to make a decision.

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toolie

1762 posts in 1287 days


#10 posted 01-02-2013 04:17 PM

However, I keep hearing so much about the unisaw that makes it hard to make a decision.

i’m not sure if you’re referring to the older unisaw (produced relatively unchanged for ~70 years till ~2009) or the recently redesigned unit with a riving knife and front mounted controls. the older saw is the saw that the griz 0691 is modelled after. almost the same yoke configuration and it’s probably the griz i would look at if i ever wanted a new cabinet saw.

my recent experience with refurbishing a ‘72 3hp baldor motored unisaw sort of satisfied my desire to get to know what all the fuss surrounding unsaws was all about. i learned they are well built but can be expensive to repair when things go wrong. when i completed the refurb, it was a great performer, but i opted, for reasons of space and task flexibility, to keep 2 emerson electric built 10” contractor saws instead.

depending on what you want to do, you may be able to get by with, dare i say it, a lesser tool, like a griz 0715 (a true hybrid) or a similar but much less expensive ridgid 4512 (best bang for the buck hybrid available today). and you are right about the trunion defining the nature of the saw. cabinet saws have cabinet mounted trunions and hybrids have table mounted trunions (the ridgid 4511- granite topped saw no longer in production not withstanding. it had cabinet mounted trunions but was considered a hybrid, i suppose because it didn’t have a 3 hp motor).

what has led you to focus on older cabinet saws? have you considered a saw like the 4512, which is a true 1.5hp dual voltage CI topped hybrid which can be had, at a HD that accepts the harbor freight “20% off any single item” coupon, for $400?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


#11 posted 01-02-2013 09:17 PM

Thanks for the insight toolie! Yes I had been looking at the older unisaws as I cannot afford the new ones. I agree with the fact the a hybrid saw might be all I need now. I just thought if I’m going to have to upgrade later I might as well spend ones. I’m hoping to be able to build some cabinets in future and I want them to look professionally built. Of course I want to do general wood working as a hubby as well. I am really looking harder at the grizzly saws. I do however want something with decent dust collection and heard stuff about some saws having contained blade and trunnions which look like a better design as oppose to ones that let the dust fall to the buttom of the cabinet. I do also been thinking about the fact that with the older saws things might go wrong and I rather not deal with a possible lemon n such. The contractor saw ( or hybrid) would have been good since I know I will be moving to another state on 2 years or so and am already stressing about how to move a 600+ pounds saw :) so I guess I have a decision to make here. If I knew I could built decent cabinets and furniture with a lets say ridgid saw I would go that route for sure. I just don’t have enough experience I guess!

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toolie

1762 posts in 1287 days


#12 posted 01-03-2013 06:35 PM

I’m hoping to be able to build some cabinets in future and I want them to look professionally built.

a cabinet style table saw alone won’t make this happen. the best table saw, with the worst user technique, will result in cabinets whose appearance is commensurate with the the attention to detail of the user.

stressing about how to move a 600+ pounds saw

that shouldn’t be a concern. they can all be disassembled to a point where the components are eminently manageable.

If I knew I could built decent cabinets and furniture with a lets say ridgid saw I would go that route for sure.

a 4512 would definitely be capable of delivering professional level performance, assuming you’re not continuously ripping hardwoods for 12 hours a day. the ability of the 4512 to deliver cabinet grade performance is in the hands of the operator, in terms of tool set up and project layout .

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Tony_nubee

10 posts in 630 days


#13 posted 01-04-2013 10:54 AM

You are correct toolie. I am willing to take my time to learn as much as I can before tackling serious projects. I also know that when it comes to attention to detail I surpase the expected level to the point of obsessiveness at times :) my pure concern was the quality of cuts and their precision. I have an old craftsman contractor saw that I bought cheap in Craig’s list. I have paid more than I paid for the saw for tools to help me adjust things for precision. However when I noticed a wobble in my blade due to arbor issues on this direct drive saw as well as a fence that has to be manually setup and measured everytime I decided to buy something I can really work with as oppose to putting money in my old saw. I do hear good things about the ridgid and what you said confirmed things for me. I wish they still had the 4511 as I like the trunnion to cabinet attachment based on what I hear. Thanks for taking the time to help. At this point I have a decision to make to go with ridgid or bite the bulet and just buy a new grizzly. I do like something with good dust collection and I hear the grizzly 1023 has a shroud around the blade which could be good in that department. I guess I’ll sleep on it for couple of nights to figure out what I want to do.

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