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Forum topic by NyTxTrialAtty posted 12-31-2012 12:54 AM 838 views 0 times favorited 31 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 636 days


12-31-2012 12:54 AM

Topic tags/keywords: plane refurbishing milling

Looking to purchase my first planer. The project I am currently undertaking will be to plane about 350 1” x 2” boards from bowling lanes that I am prying apart.

I do not have enough space for a gigantic planer, so that is one concern. The other concern I have is that I need it to be durable enough to be able to handle these boards which have a tongue and groove to each side and lots of hardened glue on it.

I will admit that I am young and not very experienced (although I am learning as much as I can) with planers and planing boards. In fact, I am not sure if they can even plan these boards with the hard glue on them or if it will tear up the blades???

Either way, I would prefer not to spend more than $750, if that is possible.

Thoughts on a make and model and reasons why you would like it would be really beneficial to me.

Thanks.

Happy New Year….


31 replies so far

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TheDane

3781 posts in 2318 days


#1 posted 12-31-2012 01:08 AM

The glue won’t do the planer knives any good … glue and paint tend to dull the blades.

The greater concern I would have is hardware (e.g. ring-shank nails) you may encounter. I worked at a bowling alley equipped with AMF pinsetters and lanes many years ago. The maple in our lanes was not glued … it was tongue-and-groove with ring-shank nails every few inches.

Have you considered the DeWalt DW735? It is a 13”, 3 knife planer that tends to get pretty strong reviews.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 636 days


#2 posted 12-31-2012 01:36 AM

Thanks Gerry. I was actually looking at the DW 735 and reading the reviews on it before you replied. I am concerned about the ring-shank nails, but these boards are both glued & nailed. There are nails every 8-10” all along the length of the board.

I am concerned with the shards of the nails that I don’t see or are not visible to the eye as they are embedded in the wood.

Thoughts on getting that glue off the most efficient way?

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burlman

4 posts in 633 days


#3 posted 12-31-2012 01:38 AM

Take your time with a SHARP chisel and work the glue loose. Do not be in a hurry….after all those boards were in play for quite a while!. You should be able to remove the majority of the old glue and smoothe sufficiently to plane the boards. I agree with Gerry….check the boards with a metal detector or at least a free hanging magnet to at least find any hidden iron!
Burlman

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NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 636 days


#4 posted 12-31-2012 01:41 AM

I hope the chisel will free up most of the glue. Getting it out of the grooves is going to be a very tricky task. I wish there was a faster, more efficient, manner…

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TheDane

3781 posts in 2318 days


#5 posted 12-31-2012 01:44 AM

During our summer shutdowns for resurfacing, part of my job was to replace damaged boards with a router and trammel jig. It is hard to describe the sensation you get when the router bit tangles with a ring-shank nail, but it sure gets your attention!

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 636 days


#6 posted 12-31-2012 01:50 AM

Yes…that is one that I would prefer not to have to deal with. Let me ask you this – were the lanes you worked at applied with a veneer on top or a finish? I ask b/c these lanes I have do not have any finish on them. They have a veneer on top of the SYP or Maple (depending on which part of the lane it is).

But I seem to recall that the lanes either had a finish or were a veneered top. But not sure the historical significance of either. Which came first? Or lasT?

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2135 days


#7 posted 12-31-2012 01:50 AM

I agree with TheDane. The Dewalt 735 is a great planer. I have planed hundreds of board ft of wood with mine and not much seems to slow it down. The blades are easy to change too. It has a nice chip blower and two speeds which is a plus. Get yourself a metal detector used in shops to find the nails.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 636 days


#8 posted 12-31-2012 02:00 AM

Thanks Wayne. I am going to check it out…

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3781 posts in 2318 days


#9 posted 12-31-2012 02:35 AM

Our lanes were 1×4 maple boards standing on edge, T&G, and nailed. No veneer or plastic. The finish we used after annual sanding was a varnish. The lanes were cleaned daily with a linaduster, then topped with a light oil.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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bullhead1

228 posts in 903 days


#10 posted 12-31-2012 03:04 AM

I also have a Dewalt and love it. My question is the wood venereered? If it is Im not sure I would go through the effort to plain it depending how thick the veneer is. I agree with others in that the finish will raise havoc with your planer blades. If it’s solid maple that is a different story.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10874 posts in 1345 days


#11 posted 12-31-2012 03:19 AM

A drum sander with 24 to 50 grit paper is my choice for dealing with removal of hard glue, wood floor finish, and serious debris. This grit of paper makes it go a lot faster then you would think. I use this technique to thickness highly figured woods that don’t like to be planed as well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Grandpa

3133 posts in 1330 days


#12 posted 12-31-2012 04:12 AM

It will ruin planer blades before you get started. You need to look further in my opinion. I have tried this. Not a good experience. I was using a 24 inch industrial grade planer.

View PaulLL's profile

PaulLL

148 posts in 631 days


#13 posted 12-31-2012 04:31 AM

Im not sure where you’re located, but best price I could find for the DW735 was a busy bee tools here in Calgary. $585 with an extra set of knives and the out feed tables. HD and Lowes are $699 just for the planer.

Oh and Busy bee has locations across canada in case you arent in Calgary

View mbs's profile

mbs

1438 posts in 1595 days


#14 posted 12-31-2012 04:36 AM

I like gfadvm’s idea.

Another thought is to get a used planer with a Byrd shelix head with rotatable insert cutters. After the nails are removed and checked with a metal detecter run the boards through to get rid of the glue / finish then rotate the inserts and give the boards a final pass with new the new edge of the inserts.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 636 days


#15 posted 12-31-2012 04:54 AM

@ Gerry – 1×4???? Wow. That must have been pretty impressive lanes. These are just the 1×2s I seem to find in most places that are selling bowling lane wood (Craig’s List) and most local lanes.

As for the veneer…it is a 1/4” sheet wood with a plastic veneer glued to it. Some lanes are stripped to the original 1×2s but still have remnants of the glue on them.

PaulLL - here in Houston HD they have the 735 for $629 and that includes the extra set of knives and out feed tables.

gfadvm seems to have the most logical idea. I will get the 24-50 grit sandpaper and prep them first before I go ruining any planing blades.

Thanks guys.

showing 1 through 15 of 31 replies

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