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Jointer question....almost there!!

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Forum topic by dakremer posted 12-30-2012 08:56 PM 1091 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dakremer

2491 posts in 1811 days


12-30-2012 08:56 PM

So some of you have been following my other forum topics involving my jointer. (click link to see my jointer) I had a lot of trouble getting the bolts out (rusted) to replace the knives. Finally had to cut them off with my Dremel. Couldnt find any bolts that were only 1/4” long. So got 3/8” (grade 8) bolts and cut them down (using a nut and Dremel) to 1/4”.

I just installed the knives using the Rockwell Jointer Jig…

here are some pics of the knives installed (with the new bolts)....

So after getting them installed….I ran a few boards through it…here is the turn out….

I’m getting little ripples in the wood…..I’m not sure if you can see it.

The wood seems pretty smooth and joins pretty nicely but I can see the ripples….is this a problem? should I just run it through the planer to smooth it out??? What is going on? Whats the fix?

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!


20 replies so far

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3193 posts in 1395 days


#1 posted 12-30-2012 09:00 PM

The head is turning too slow or you are feeding too fast. It takes a lot of HP to plane a face like you are doing. That alone will slow the speed of the head and motor. Try feeding it slow. My Craftsman jointer has the same size sheaves on the motor and the cutter head. I am thinking the motor turns at 3450 RPM but I would have to check that. I just might do that for you.

Yes that is 3450 RPM

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dakremer

2491 posts in 1811 days


#2 posted 12-30-2012 09:03 PM

I am running it through the same speed as I did before putting the new knives on, and didnt seem to have that problem before (with the old knives) Maybe I did, and I just didnt notice it…...

also the board i ran through it (pictured above) was only like 1.5” wide….should be able to handle that!?

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

636 posts in 2811 days


#3 posted 12-30-2012 09:10 PM

Double check you knives height. They should all be the same. If one of them were slightly higher, then I expect the ripple your pic shows.

Just a thought…

-- Nicky

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bbc557ci

543 posts in 793 days


#4 posted 12-30-2012 09:25 PM

I’ve found the jigs used to set jointer knives can be a bit tedious. What I do is… while the knife is just loose enough to move I set the jig/magnet in place and rock the cutter head back and forth, so the knife moves front to back about 1/16th of an inch, then snug the bolts. Then I check/double check the entire knife to make sure it’s the same for the entire length. Then do the same on the remaining two knives.

Not sure if that is the proper or best way to set the knives, but it works pretty well for me. Hope this helps dak.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

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Roger

15039 posts in 1523 days


#5 posted 12-30-2012 10:01 PM

There has to be a simple answer. Looks like a good piece o equipment. Just needs a bit o finessin. You’ll get it. Keep playin with it.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Miles King's profile

Miles King

28 posts in 1411 days


#6 posted 12-30-2012 10:32 PM

My jointer will sometimes leave little ripples on the surface after jointing an edge. I was told (sorry I don’t remember who told me or perhaps I just made this up all by myself) that the ripples are the result of the jointer knives impacting the wood and leaving behind compression marks. My experience is that some woods show these compression ripples more than others and is most likely has something to do with the density of the wood. I never noticed any problems in panel glue ups from these ripples but I usually finish up a surface off the jointer with a hand plane. If the surface has these ripples I can feel them being removed with the plane and it feels something like hand planning a washboard. mk

-- Miles

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1688 days


#7 posted 12-30-2012 11:01 PM

The usual suspects are

Knife height uneven

too fast a feed rate

not enough downward pressure above cutter block

Sorry I’ve nothing new to add to what everyone else said.

What’s it like if you just take a whisker off for a final pass? and are you getting any snipe at the end?

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2169 posts in 1570 days


#8 posted 12-31-2012 01:09 AM

Proper term is chatter. Rate of feed is top o’ my list of causes.

Run the board through again, as you have, and then again but cut the feed rate down. Presto!

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Don W's profile

Don W

15401 posts in 1287 days


#9 posted 12-31-2012 01:24 AM

Take a good straight edge, raise the bed so when one blade it just touches the straight edge when flat against the bed. Now rotate to the other 2 blade and chech the height. They need to be identical and check both sides of the bed.

If they are the same height and feed rate don’t help, I’m not sure what else there is.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View burlman's profile

burlman

4 posts in 698 days


#10 posted 12-31-2012 01:33 AM

run it through, nice and slow after all you control the feed rate and thusly the amount of “cuts per inch” This should remove the chatter IF the machine and knives are truly adjusted well.
Hope this helps, Burlman

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2200 days


#11 posted 12-31-2012 01:45 AM

The only other thing I could add, is to be sure the bed of the jointer is flat and smooth and keep the bed waxed so the wood slides freely. There appears to be some rust in the pictures. Not sure if thats affecting the flatness of the bed. The slightest uneven area of the bed can cause an uneven area on the wood.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11347 posts in 1409 days


#12 posted 12-31-2012 03:23 AM

I take VERY shallow cuts. It takes longer but I feel the improved surface quality is worth the extra time.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View oluf's profile

oluf

257 posts in 1758 days


#13 posted 12-31-2012 03:27 AM

I don’t like the looks of the way that blade is sharpened. It looks like the person who sharpened it put a secondary bevel on it. This will not work on plainer or jointer blades. The blades are set in the cutter heads at such an angle that a secondary bevel can prevent the cutting edge of the blade from contacting the wood surface first. It doesn’t shave off the wood it beats it off.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

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Grandpa

3193 posts in 1395 days


#14 posted 12-31-2012 03:57 AM

I was thinking you said you had bought this jointer recently. If that is the case, how do you know all the parts are correct so you are turning the correct RPM?? That is what I was eluding to. Are we sure everything is correct or has someone just put parts on the jointer at some point in its life?

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2169 posts in 1570 days


#15 posted 12-31-2012 05:12 PM

quote: I don’t like the looks of the way that blade is sharpened. It looks like the person who sharpened it put a secondary bevel on it. This will not work on plainer or jointer blades. The blades are set in the cutter heads at such an angle that a secondary bevel can prevent the cutting edge of the blade from contacting the wood surface first. It doesn’t shave off the wood it beats it off.

Keen observation, Oluf. I think this could be it.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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