how best to fix this wood tear out?

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Forum topic by Randy_ATX posted 12-29-2012 04:20 PM 4519 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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878 posts in 2406 days

12-29-2012 04:20 PM

What is the best way to approach this? Unfortunately it is on the front of large frame I have been working on. If it were on the back, I wouldn’t care so much. Routing it over is out of the question as I am going for a sharp corner look. Thanks for your suggestions in advance.

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

7 replies so far

View Cosmicsniper's profile


2202 posts in 3122 days

#1 posted 12-29-2012 04:31 PM

I would be inclined to use a gouge and remove the torn-out area. I would use the same gouge on a matching piece of walnut and glue that on, then plane it back down. The fix should look very transparent if done correctly.

-- jay,

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Francisco Luna

943 posts in 3357 days

#2 posted 12-29-2012 04:33 PM

It happens lots of times to me when sanding jobs…...
I always do this: I take a piece with the same grain pattern/color shade and try to find a section that match that specific spot. Then, with a knife or round sole spoke shave, I take the damage out, in a kind of round cut. then with a belt sander I make an small piece that matches the section. Then I grab a fine sand paper and placing it between the two surfaces to be glued, I start to sand the concave surface with the pressure of the convex one, so it helps to get the right fit. Then I just glue the little part with the help of masking tape. When dry, block planning and sanding block will finish the job.

-- Nature is my manifestation of God. I go to nature every day for inspiration in the day's work. I follow in building the principles which nature has used in its domain" Frank Lloyd Wright

View a1Jim's profile


117061 posts in 3541 days

#3 posted 12-29-2012 04:50 PM

I really can’t tell where this is on what kind of furniture or how wide the edge is from the photo provided?
I would to tend to try and do a patch with matching wood grain. I would router out a section chisel the corners an tape on the new piece using white glue because it dries clear . To eliminate more tear out I would first use some super glue on the tear out to prevent it from tearing out more. The larger the piece you can add the less obvious it will be. I’ve even just added a different contrasting wood to make it look like a design element, of course that would mean you would have to do the whole inside edge .

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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878 posts in 2406 days

#4 posted 12-29-2012 05:02 PM

Thanks, guys. These are some good suggestions to get me headed in the right direction. I am going to head out to the workshop later today and get started on the repair. I will add this to my projects once it is finished. :)

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

20280 posts in 3069 days

#5 posted 12-30-2012 02:17 AM

I secdond what Jim said. I would try to fix it with wood of the same grain pattern and use clear glue..Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Bernie's profile


422 posts in 2801 days

#6 posted 12-30-2012 03:36 AM

All are good solutions and a blend is best. Jim’s method is what I’ve done in situations like yours’ – squaring off the corners with a chisel and gluing in the fix. Make sure the fix is just a tad taller then what you need so snading will blend it in.

I’m intrigued by Francisco’s method of sanding the convex surface with a concave block. I hope I never have to try it but since I plan on doing more wood working, I’ll probably give it a try next time. Thanks Francisco. A good wood worker never produces the perfect piece, he or she simply knows how to correct and hide their mistakes.

-- Bernie: It never gets hot or cold in New Hampshire, just seasonal!

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2656 posts in 3490 days

#7 posted 12-30-2012 04:19 AM an added option there is always sawdust and epoxy. Using these two will hide many opps’s and only the very real pros can tell if a repair was made. It sands nicely and disapears with the finish is applied.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

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