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Forum topic by yellabret posted 575 days ago 1439 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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yellabret

43 posts in 801 days


575 days ago

we are a familiy of modest means so a nicey nice table saw of my dreams will always be just that, especially with my other financially draining hobbies (cameras, surfboards, and mountain bikes) just cant do it all. so my son pooled the wife and sister together, did a ton of research, and found the above table saw for a very sweet price – IMHO anyway. from what he found and i have verified is this is an old respected workhorse that has set the standard for many other step-ups to follow. the gentleman he bought it from is a college prof. and had 2, his other had an upgraded fence so he wanted to unload this one. my son knew nothing going in but being a bright young mech. eng. you can trust his abilities to dig through the muck. he did some refurbishing and the thing looks very sweet indeed, especially for the money.

the fence is stock, so the far side is not tracked and when you clamp the fence it shifts a tad. for the time being i can apply pressure when clamping down to keep it straight, but i definitely want to upgrade the fence. i will not be making fine cabinetry, mostly chopping blocks from exotic woods, and small tables/shelves out of 8/4 live edge slabs (using this for some joinery (dados, rabbets, m&t, etc. NOT trying to work with 6’ slabs on this)

so things i need to know are:

1) what is the best upgrade fence for the money for my purpose? i have researched a bit and it is confusing to figure out if i have to modify the saw or fence to work right etc…...

2) i am also confused about whether a riving knife will fit on this. it looks like there is a mount (see photo), but i am no TS expert but am knowledgeable on safe operation and want this badly, but have read somewhere where people have traded theirs in because of lack of a riving knife

(i am a contributor and student of the “lets see some damage” thread” – should be required reading!) ;-)

3) will likely rewire to 220V, should this be able to cut 8/4 oak? short cuts in 12/4? (1-1/2 HP)

4) obviously need a blade guard as well.

5) any advice for a router table extension?

6) the location of the on/off switch is insane. is a foot switch the best option?

hope all had a great holiday…..!!

David


22 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1974 days


#1 posted 575 days ago

Love the story. The saw looks great….congrats on a nice saw and a great family! With good alignment and the right saw blade, you should have little trouble with 8/4”, and you just might get through 12/4” too. The blade that’s on it needs a good cleaning, and has too many teeth to rip 8/4”, but might work ok for thinner materials if it’s still sharp. Decent blades start at under $30.

The Delta T2 is often regarded as the best bang for the buck going….it’s roughly $168 shipped from Tools-plus.com. You can sell the stock fence to offset costs. Being a Delta saw, the T2 might even be a direct bolt on.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View History's profile

History

395 posts in 580 days


#2 posted 575 days ago

I have had several Delta Contractor’s table saws that I have bought, cleaned up, and sold, and I currently have one in my shop that I bought new in 1995. Like Scott says, the Delta T2 fence is probably the best bang for the buck in a fence and should be fairly easy to bolt up to your saw. A Freud 24 tooth ripping blade would be my choice for a blade, and there are alot of other fairly inexpensive upgrades that you can do the saw as well that I highly recommend. Adding a set of machined pulleys and a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt will help the saw run noticeably smoother, adding a large paddle switch under the fence rail is more convieniant to reach, and the old location of the tiny toggle switch and electrical box tend to fill up with dust. Plugging the saw into a 20 amp, 120V dedicated circuit, or switching the motor over for a 15 amp, 240 V circuit will give the motor the proper electrical power that it needs. Limit the size that you use for an extension cord to the proper gauge for the length used. Also a coat of Johnson’s or Minwax paste Hardwood floor wax occasionally will preserve the cast iron top. If you do all of these things you will have a saw that could be the last saw that you’ll ever need, assuming that the arbor bearings are good, and that the arbor threads don’t have alot of wear from blade changes. The American made Delta Contractor’s table saws are some of the best, if not the best Contractor’s saws made. A riving knife is not adaptable to the older saws because of the mechanics of the saw. The riving knife is fairly new to the United States market and requires a different internal mechanism which raises and lowers with the blade, these older saws where designed for a fixed splitter. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I also specialize in dust collection for these saws should you ever get to that point.

View mrg's profile

mrg

519 posts in 1598 days


#3 posted 575 days ago

The T2 as mentioned is a direct bolt on fence. You can swap out the fence in less than 30 minutes. Leestyron.com offers a splitter and guard for this saw for $150 if I rember the price correctly off the top of my head. He has a 6 to 8 week turnaround on them at the moment. This saw does not have the capability for a riving knife.

Lots a luck with the saw, I have one like that and it still going strong..

-- mrg

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toolie

1717 posts in 1227 days


#4 posted 574 days ago

echoes here on knotscott’s comments. too bad it wasn’t a left tilt saw. you didn’t mention it’s cost, so does it qualify for gloat status? also, MRG’s comments on the shark guard from leestyron.com are on the money. but if you want a splitter and aren’t too concerned about a blade guard, this delta splitter, from the sawcenter, might be a direct bolt on for < $70 to your door (check here for Delta Splitter, item number: 1349941):

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View History's profile

History

395 posts in 580 days


#5 posted 574 days ago

I need to clarify that my earlier electricty recommendations are for the stock 1 1/2 hp motor. Since someone painted yours orange I’m not sure if it is the stock motor. If it was my saw I’d paint the motor the original color which was gray like the saw, but if you don’t want to go through the time and extra expense to try to match the paint, you could paint it black like the newer saws were. I’ll also add that the motor belt guard and guard mount are still available, I can’t remember where, but I just bought a belt guard last summer for a saw that I refurbished and sold. Left tilt, right tilt, in my opinion is just another marketing ploy by the manufacturers to get people to buy new imported saws. The left verses right tilt isn’t that big of a deal. If you have a right tilt saw, move your fence to the left of the blade and you basically have the same results. The splitter/guard and mounting hardware that came with the Delta Contractor’s saw that I bought new in 1995 is still in the factory packaging and has never been mounted to the saw.

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

43 posts in 801 days


#6 posted 573 days ago

this is the fence? http://www.tools-plus.com/delta-36-t30.html

unfortunately out of stock, and $199 thru amazon. i’ll wait a little and see if they restock. so i assume this fence is more accurate and locks at a true parallel to the blade?

geeze and the splitter toolie recommends is out of stock too. with ya’lls experience with these places do they typically restock soon?

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1231 days


#7 posted 573 days ago

I have the T2 on my craftsman. Its an absolute gem, turning my mediocre saw into a very capable machine. The T2 has recently been available for $168 +/-, however it appears that supplies are quickly dwindling. Knowing what I know now about the T2 goodness, I’d gladly pay the $199 (extra $31).

Delta corp has been bought and sold 2-3 times recently. Product lines seem to have changed a bit too. No way of knowing when or IF the fence when be available at all in the future, much less for $168. Theres a fair chance that we’ll be soon be talking about the “good ole days” when a the mighty T2 could be had for $199. LOL.

$199 is still a VERY reasonable price for the T2- especially if it will be a direct bolt-on to your current saw. If the budget will allow, I’d buy it. That saw your family got you is a quality machine. No reason, it shouldn’t last for decades. Same can be said for the T2. In a year, you won’t even remember (or care) paying an extra $31. And the fence can be transferred to any future saw you might purchase.

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

43 posts in 801 days


#8 posted 573 days ago

actually just scored one. there is an amazingly good private tool company just 5 miles away that had it in stock for $209 – skipping shipping charges and having it on the spot made it worth it !

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1231 days


#9 posted 573 days ago

Great news. I’d gladly have paid a bit extra for instant gratification, and more importantly, to support a local biz.

View shampeon's profile (online now)

shampeon

1284 posts in 782 days


#10 posted 573 days ago

I’ve got basically the same saw, and added a T2 a few months back. Good fence, good price.

The upgrades I made were adding a paddle switch ($15 from Grizzly):

making a sled:

putting it on a mobile base, and making a bunch of zero clearance inserts for my blades.

Also, Unisaw cast iron extensions are bolt-ons for this saw.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

894 posts in 623 days


#11 posted 573 days ago

Google BORKstore to find out about an after market riving knife (BORK stands for bolt on riving knife). I am probably going to get one for my old Unisaw, unless I can figure out how to make one myself. The purpose of the riving knife is to prevent kickback, which is one of the most common dangers with a TS.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1974 days


#12 posted 573 days ago

Bob Ross has made some nice upgrades to the BORK recently. The new ones are stainless steel and have some nice design updates. I really like my BORK on my Shop Fox saw.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

43 posts in 801 days


#13 posted 572 days ago

so are there a couple of different sizes for the T-2? i got the 30”, thats the distance across, but the guy said something about the didtance from the blade to the end – of the table i guess. we,, thats only 22”, excluding extensions. so when i lay it all out, the only way the holes match up leave the guage well off the blade and they all stick out further than i expected. i am assuming i need a smaller size, which mean shorter mounting brackets?

View History's profile

History

395 posts in 580 days


#14 posted 572 days ago

A 30” fence means, it’s designed to cut a sheet of material 30” wide. You will probably have to make an extension wing or table to the right side of the saw. Did you read the directions ?

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2364 posts in 2036 days


#15 posted 572 days ago

That’s my identical saw I’ve had since the (late 80’s)?? Mine has always worked great. With a good blade it will cut 8/4 hard wood. I regularly work with maple, oak, and walnut. It did have a safety shield on it and I use that little bolt and metal clamp behind the blade to hold a homemade aluminum riving knife/splitter. I use the same fence and find that it cuts straight. I will confess that I use the saw almost exclusively for ripping wood. I have a very nice 12” bosch miter saw for my cross cut stuff. The combination of the two works out well for me. If you find that it runs rough, bounces; replace the belt or put one of those link belts on. This saw will run very, very smoothly with a good belt.

You can adjust that small screw on the top of the far end of the fence. If you do it won’t shift even a tad and the way the locking lever is made it locks the fence at a solid 90 degrees. If you think it’s binding when putting wood through it’s probably that the wood is curved and needs to be put through a jointer first. I initially ran into that issue and after learning how to properly prepare wood I realized that it wasn’t the saw, it was me.

It’s an old workhorse and does the job for me. If all is well with your saw it should be a very doable addition to your shop and let you do so me good work. This saw originally cost about $575 new.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

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