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poly or laquer?

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Forum topic by shelly_b posted 614 days ago 910 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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shelly_b

841 posts in 754 days


614 days ago

What are the benefits of each and what do you prefer? I am finishing some cherry paper towel holders and am using a base of shelac then a few coats of poly. I have some laquer, which seems like it would be easier since you don’t have to sand between coats but am afraid to use it. I have done the shellac/poly on cherry before when i made my end table and love the results. I would hate to ruin these xmas gifts(yes they will be a little late lol) by ruining the finish. Thanks!


20 replies so far

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1449 days


#1 posted 614 days ago

I prefer lacquer for its ease of use, and quick drying time.
However, in this case I would deal with the slow dry time and opt for poly because it has better protection against water. I sprayed Deft Poly on my front door, and it worked great. Takes forever to dry, but otherwise a great product.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13848 posts in 974 days


#2 posted 614 days ago

I use Danish oil and water based poly for most. Water based poly dries clear versus oil based that slightly yellows. My mother is 83 and has been using oil based for evr and just plans for the color change. I also prefer the clean up for water based.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

View shelly_b's profile

shelly_b

841 posts in 754 days


#3 posted 614 days ago

I just got some rub on poly in hopes of avoiding drips since there are so many corners. I have never used it before so will probably test it out on a scrap first. Hopefully it will work as good as the brush/spray on kind. If so, I will be using it alot more. I love the depth of the cherry end table I made. It almost has a 3D look to it. I find my self staring at it sometimes lol.

View cutworm's profile

cutworm

1064 posts in 1429 days


#4 posted 614 days ago

To me lacquer is much more forgiving and easier to apply. If you mess up wait about 30 minutes and sand and repeat.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

886 posts in 746 days


#5 posted 614 days ago

I have some polyurethane that acts like lacquer…

http://www.kwickkleen.com/product_info.php/fast-drying-polyurethane-p-1164

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View Gshepherd's profile

Gshepherd

1466 posts in 838 days


#6 posted 614 days ago

I really like Laquer cause it really brings out the beauty of wood. Dries quickly, easy touch up’s later if needed.

-- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3107 posts in 1312 days


#7 posted 614 days ago

As stated above lacquer is very forgiving. It is easily repaired but it is not as durable. Poly is tough. Probably the toughest finish we have available today. It has all kinds of suggestions on the can but I have thinned it about 25% with paint thinner and sprayed it. I have applied a second coat in 20 or 3 hours. This might vary with the climate. I don’t mind working with it. Lacquer doesn’t run badly and is easy to apply. it isn’t as durable but on the other hand, I have a cedar chest with lacquer on it. It has not been handled roughly but the finish is still in great shape and it was applied in 1964. Of course if you are rough enough on cedar to mess up the lacquer finish you have probably messed up the soft cedar under it. I went to a seminat once. they were dealing with antiques. The man talked about all the finishes and finally said if I were going to use this table everyday, I would apply poly because it offers the very best in protection. If you want an antique then strip the poly and put the original finish back on it but dont use it every day.

View MarkwithaK's profile

MarkwithaK

370 posts in 1814 days


#8 posted 614 days ago

I’d always been a big fan of gel poly and still prefer it on certain things. Recently I decided to try a wipe on poly for a new table I was building for my kitchen. Three coats over a couple of coats of shellac and it turned great.

-- If at first you don't succeed then maybe skydiving isn't for you.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10759 posts in 1326 days


#9 posted 614 days ago

You really don’t need the shellac. Make your own wipe on poly by mixing poly?mineral spirits at 2:1 ratio. Just wipe it on and wipe it off. Repeat when dry til you’re happy with the finish.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Joseph Jossem's profile

Joseph Jossem

376 posts in 905 days


#10 posted 614 days ago

I have used both over the last 15 years I prefer laquer faster easier and easier to refinish.

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1176 posts in 1260 days


#11 posted 614 days ago

The look and feel of Lacuer IMO is superior. The durability of Poly can not be beat. Use the product that best fits the project.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View cathyb's profile

cathyb

757 posts in 1880 days


#12 posted 614 days ago

First let me congratulate you for taking up woodworking. Soon your home will be filled with your work.
As for finishes, I think I’ve tried them all, but I always go back to polyurethane. These days I use General semi-gloss from Woodcraft. Usually I spray it on with a Prevail can. That poly is thin enough to spray without reducing with mineral spirits. The sprayers available at most hardware stores and are just great. Since you are using cherry, you don’t have to work as much about filling the pores of the wood prior to achieving your final top coat. I would still spray a minimum of three coats. I usually will spray in one plane at a time. So I continually am rotating the piece to get the next side. The General poly can be recoated in 4 hours, but is not going to run after 30 or 40 minutes. So I turn the piece to the next side after that time and spray again. I also will hold up a piece of cardboard or a small piece of 1/4 ply (whatever I have lying around that I can sacrifice) and shield the the side that I sprayed previously to avoid overspray from the new plane of spray. I always use 400 grit sandpaper between coats on each side (after that 4 hour recoat wait time). If I start early in the morning, I can spray all 4 sides two times in one day. Don’t forget to wear a good mask, a smock and a painters hood-or a hazmat suit if you’d prefer with any finish. Good luck….......

-- cathyb, Hawaii, www.cathyswoodworking.com

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 991 days


#13 posted 614 days ago

Grandpa,

It really depends on the grade of lacquer that you buy, there are actually several different grades, I use a professional lacquer that you can only get at a handful of dealers around, none of which are actually all that close to where I live, but they deliver so…

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View shelly_b's profile

shelly_b

841 posts in 754 days


#14 posted 614 days ago

thanks everyone:) i have never thought of making my own wipe on poly, probably b/c i didn’t know you could lol. but i will definately be giving that a try. if any kind of wipe on finish works/looks as good as a spray/brush on then i am all for it. i am a little…ok, very ocd when i finish my projects. there can’t be any drips, sags, brush marks or blemishes of any sort. if there are then i have extra sanding time lol so it can get time consuming. thank you cathy:) i have some spray cans of poly and laquer and would like to eventually get a sprayer. i am horrible about not using safety equipment. masks drive me crazy, i feel like i am suffocating, but i know i really need to start using them.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3423 posts in 2597 days


#15 posted 614 days ago

Just remember that shellac s a sealer is great as lond as ya use a dewaxed shellac. I use Seal Coat from Zinnser.
Rattle can lacquer is a good product for smaller projects. Quick and easy to apply/repair.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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