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Forum topic by sawedoff posted 12-24-2012 11:50 PM 2334 views 1 time favorited 31 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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155 posts in 2388 days

12-24-2012 11:50 PM

The PM66 I just bought doesn’t have a blade so I will be needing to buy one or two. I am looking for recommendations for a good blade or two. I mainly work with 4/4 and 8/4 hardwood. I have been making a lot of cutting boards. My current saw is a cheapo skil table saw. I know Forrest has a good reputation but I have been told by several people that they are overpriced. Looking for a good recommendation for a blade for hardwood and one for plywood.


-- still wet behind the ears.....

31 replies so far

View RogerM's profile


792 posts in 2367 days

#1 posted 12-25-2012 01:01 AM

In my opinion you often get what you pay for. I have run the Forrest Woodworker II in my Delta Unisaw for over 4 years with one resharpening. I work mostly hardwoods (elm, hickory, oak, pecan, cherry and walnut) and do a lot of cross cuts and rip cuts. These are blades that simply work real well with little to no hassle. Buy one of these and virtually forget about saw blades for a long time. I have both the regular blade and the thin kerf blade but prefer the regular blade. I also have the blade stabilizers but have not found them real beneficial. Hope that you find a good blade.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View Dan Krager's profile (online now)

Dan Krager

3968 posts in 2202 days

#2 posted 12-25-2012 01:39 AM

Well, maybe I’m just easy, but my Forrest WWII has run almost 25 years with one resharpening. I’ve cut untold thousands of linear feet of kerf with that blade, and the only maintenance I do is wax it about once a year. It rips and cross cuts extremely smoothly and very little pressure is required to move material through the blade. While I too work mostly with hardwoods and hardwood ply, I just finished ripping over 1000 BF of wet pine as prep for T&G paneling and the blade was then used to rip some cherry without cleaning; no burns. It’s the only blade I have for the Unisaw. If you price a blade by the number of LF it will cut before service is needed, then you will REALLY appreciate the “expensive” ones. Priced this way they are really very inexpensive.

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL One should always prefer the probable impossible to the improbable possible.

View Loren's profile (online now)


10278 posts in 3616 days

#3 posted 12-25-2012 02:09 AM

With a Forrest or other really well made blade you can hold
a straight edge to the side of the plate anywhere and
the blade will be flat. Brazing on the carbide teeth make
the blades warp a little and the best blade makers
meticulously re-tension the blades after the brazing
is done.

I have been impressed with Forrest and Systimatic. Tenryu
is supposed to be good. CMT has a good rep too.

Onrsud closes out some pretty nice blades on ebay.

View sawedoff's profile


155 posts in 2388 days

#4 posted 12-25-2012 02:14 AM

Dan….... that is very impressive! I will look at the WWII now.

-- still wet behind the ears.....

View thedude50's profile


3603 posts in 2446 days

#5 posted 12-25-2012 02:24 AM

the Forrest is a good blade and is one of my go to blades. We have tested several blades including sets of blades on our website take the time to read the reviews that are on the site you may get a set of blades that performs very well for less. I personally dont like combination blades.

-- Please check out my new stores and

View knotscott's profile


7981 posts in 3344 days

#6 posted 12-25-2012 03:26 AM

Forrest makes some great blades, but so do several others. It’s definitely worth putting a good blade on your saw, but I wouldn’t shell out for something like a Forrest for it. Ripping 8/4” material is a tall order for that saw…it’d benefit from a decent 24T thin kerf blade….Freud Industrial or Diablo, Infinity, CMT Industrial, Irwin Marples series, DeWalt Precision Trim series….all good blades. For plywood (and fine crosscuts) I’d go with a Hi-ATB grind – 60T to 80T would be ideal.

Tips for picking saw blades

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View pintodeluxe's profile


5623 posts in 2781 days

#7 posted 12-25-2012 03:38 AM

The Freud Diablo 24 tooth will rip 8/4 hardwood with the best of them. For plywood, a 50 tooth combination or an 80 tooth fine crosscut work great. All my blades are Freud.
As far as Forrest… Is a Lamborgini better than a Porsche? I may never know.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View RussellAP's profile


3103 posts in 2255 days

#8 posted 12-25-2012 04:35 AM

Freud makes a thin kerf that is amazing and less waste for breadboard work. It’s around 90$. It bites in a ‘V’ pattern instead of a square pattern which makes for really clean cuts. It has a ring which stabilizes the blade so it won’t warp when it gets hot.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View ShaneA's profile


6912 posts in 2566 days

#9 posted 12-25-2012 04:44 AM

I am a Forrest believer. They hold an edge a long time, and leave smooth edges. Maybe someone can chime in on weight of some of these blades. Seems like the first time I ever picked up a Forrest, I thought it was significantly heavier than other blades, and it was a thin kerf. Blades and sharpness are critical stuff, the money is well spent on Forrest. However, some may get you close for less money.

View sawedoff's profile


155 posts in 2388 days

#10 posted 12-25-2012 04:51 AM

Well, I went ahead and ordered a WWII. Lots of good reviews both here and where I ordered. Thx for all who offered advice!

-- still wet behind the ears.....

View HillbillyShooter's profile


5811 posts in 2260 days

#11 posted 12-25-2012 04:51 AM

These would be my recommendations since Systematic blades are no longer available:

After 18 years of use, I’ve supplemented my old Systematic blades with these and like them as well if not better, especially the second blade, Forrest’s new plywood blade. By the way I use these on my 18-year old PM Model 66 which is still dead on, having never been adjusted since it was originally set up.

Best wishes on your decision, and Merry Christmas!

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2882 days

#12 posted 12-25-2012 12:54 PM

My personal best choice is the Freud LM72M010 24T Heavy Duty Rip blade. I like it so much that I bought a second one for back up. This thing has ZERO issues ripping rough sawn 8/4 hardwood. And I swear I can get glue ready rips off of this thing more often than not.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Woodknack's profile


11486 posts in 2348 days

#13 posted 12-25-2012 12:59 PM

The Forrest blades always get top marks in saw blade tests but the Freud comes in a close second at almost half the price. The Freuds are what I buy. Also some Amana blades have done well in those tests.

-- Rick M,

View Woodbum's profile


808 posts in 3033 days

#14 posted 12-25-2012 03:44 PM

If you want the best from an American owned and operated family business, buy Forrest. Saying something is “overpriced” is very subjective. Some might think a PM 66 is overpriced too, but you get what you pay for.
You can call Forrest blades and actually talk to someone named Forrest. They are excellent in production, customer service and product value, which is more important than just price. You will not be disappointed with Forrest. They have a full line of blades for all applications. I have had my first for nearly 10 years, and bought a scond to have a backup to use when sending the first for resharpening from Forrest, or in case of emergency. I also have their 8” Dado King. It is a smooth splinter free set.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View History's profile


399 posts in 1949 days

#15 posted 12-25-2012 03:50 PM

It really amazes me how many of you crosscut on a table saw. Someone recently made a comment about poorly made miter gauges that come with table saws, well a table saws main job is for ripping, not crosscutting thats why they don’t put alot of effort into miter gauges. And while I’m at it, I’m surprised that no one recommended a Harbor Freight saw blade considering all the hoopla I’ve heard about them lately, personally I’m really tired of hearing about the junk. Anyway I use a Systematic full kerf 24 tooth saw blade in a Delta Contractor’s saw thats wired for 220V and has a Unifence. Works great, what moire do I need as a hobbiest woodworker ? I’m not rich, I would consider myself as an average woodworker, I don’t have the best, but I don’t buy junk either. The constant preasure for people to buy stationary Industrial Cabinet saws is another rediculous subject also, sure, if everyone was rich and could afford a dedicated shop where they didn’t have to move machinery around there would be no boundries of what they would buy, but unfortunately I have to buy according to my situation ( 2 stall garage that we still park our vehicles in ) and whats the most appropriate to get the job done at a reasonable cost. It’s only a hobby for me, In the 30 years that I’ve been a woodworker I’ve come to realize that it’s next to impossible to make a respectable buck doing it. Buy wisely. I’m with Horizontal Mike on this one, buy a good affordable ripping blade, the Freud looks like a good choice. Save your crosscuts for the miter saw, it’s a more appropriate machine for the job..

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