How do you like your 1.75 Hp sawstop

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by GT350 posted 12-24-2012 04:31 AM 2397 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View GT350's profile


362 posts in 1949 days

12-24-2012 04:31 AM

I am looking at buying the 1.75hp sawstop cabinet saw. My question is for those of you that own this saw is are you happy with the power and given the chance would you rather have the 3hp. If it is not enough power what is it that you cut that is too much for this saw. I am making furniture and misc. smaller projects usually 4/4 or smaller but occasionally 8/4.

12 replies so far

View NiteWalker's profile


2736 posts in 2545 days

#1 posted 12-24-2012 04:55 AM

If you have 220, go for the 3HP. This is a lifelong purchase, so I’d not worry about the extra few $$ spent up front. If you don’t have 220, the 1.75HP is fine. I have a 1.5HP contractor saw and occasionally rip 8/4 stock with no problems.

So given the chance, I’d take the 3HP, but wouldn’t mind the 1.75 at all.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

392 posts in 2153 days

#2 posted 12-24-2012 06:01 AM

I’ve cut 8/4 maple easily on mine. It is built the same way a the cabinet saw just make sure you get the 36” fence and not the 30” one. it is much better. Today i cut some 12/4 oak and it got the job done.

View GT350's profile


362 posts in 1949 days

#3 posted 12-25-2012 02:57 AM

I do have 220v in my shop, I would have to rewire that outlet for the 220v though. I’m just not sure if it is worth the extra money, not being able to move it into the garage if I need to and I think I may end up with more kickback issues. Cole, thanks for the info on your saw, I am also able to cut 8/4 oak with my old 1970’s Craftsman that has the same motor but I haven’t tried anything thicker. Was there any burning or binding on the 12/4?

View knotscott's profile


7980 posts in 3343 days

#4 posted 12-25-2012 03:32 AM

My 2hp contractor saw and 1.75 hybrid saw could cut just about anything with proper blade selection and good alignment, but they do labor harder, and are much more sensitive to blade and alignment variations. The 3hp motor won’t work nearly as hard as a 1.75hp, so in theory, the 3hp should last longer.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

392 posts in 2153 days

#5 posted 12-25-2012 06:27 AM

There was a little burning but a surprisingly small amount. Nothing that couldn’t be sanded. Knotscott has a good point about the motor lasting longer though. I didn’t even think of that

View Gator's profile


383 posts in 3644 days

#6 posted 12-25-2012 10:21 AM

I went from a 1.5 to a 3hp saw, and am glad I did. I use a lot of 8/4 material, and never have an issue. Like NiteWalker said, this is a life time purchase – you will be glad you did.


-- Master designer of precision sawdust and one of a kind slivers.

View GT350's profile


362 posts in 1949 days

#7 posted 12-25-2012 03:05 PM

I think if I was doing a lot of cutting over 4/4 or 5/4 the decision to go with the 3 hp would be easy. Since mine is mostly not that thick and I usually only do a few large projects a year I’m not sure if the larger motor will matter much. Mostly what I am going for with the cabinet saw is the accuracy.

View NiteWalker's profile


2736 posts in 2545 days

#8 posted 12-25-2012 03:38 PM

The accuracy you’ll get with either the 1.75 or 3; with what you described you’ll be i=fine with the 1.75.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View History's profile


399 posts in 1949 days

#9 posted 12-25-2012 03:45 PM

I have an American made Delta 34-444, with a 30” Unifence, and a full size mobile base that I bought new in 1995 ( 34-445X package ) I wired it for 220V and use a good full kerf ripping blade. I have no plans of selling the saw anytime soon, if ever. It’s a well made machine that holds it’s settings and has plenty of power. As mostly a hobbiest it’s all I need. In my opinion the used Delta Contractor’s saws are a great buy right now. People are droping out of the hobby because they don’t have the time for it anymore and the saws are selling cheap, the same goes for the Powermatics. I’ll also add that I’m not a fan of SawStop at all. I do not care for a CEO that tries to force his products onto the American public, and refuses to support American jobs, the saws are made in Taiwan.

View MrRon's profile


4719 posts in 3211 days

#10 posted 12-25-2012 04:47 PM

It’s all about the blade. With a proper sharp blade, it will cut anything on any saw of any power. Even a 5 hp saw with a dull blade won’t cut well.

View DavidNJ's profile


389 posts in 1961 days

#11 posted 12-25-2012 07:37 PM

This was also a big topic on a tread I started. The difference is $430. The motor can be upgraded later for about $600 in parts. However, I believe (or at least was told by Woodcraft and in the pictures on the SawStop website) that the 3hp includes the dust extraction blade guard which is a $139 option on the 1.75hp). That cuts the price difference to $290 (you should be using dust collection on the blade guard, a topic included in another thread I started on dust collection).

From various posts people made both work. There posts indicated that 3hp allows a faster feed speed in harder woods and greater blade selection since thin kerf, which reduces the power needed, isn’t the same issue.

If the saw is ever sold, the market for 3hp cabinet saws is much larger than the market for 1.75hp cabinet saws. One glance at the posts on the forum indicate that few woodworkers buying a used saw are looking for 1.75hp.

If you don’t currently have dust collection, the price of the dust collection should also be factored in. From my online reading, including the articles in Fine Woodworking a cyclone is necessary to maintain effective dust collection. Note: nearly all home vacuums are now cyclones. Based on the dust collection thread I’d say the Grizzly 1.5hp cyclone (G0703P, $725 plus shipping) is probably the lowest price point I’d consider. PennStateInd, Oneida, ClearVue Cyclones also have cyclone 2-stage dust collection. A Cyclone can be added to dust collectors that don’t have them, but the configuration is not as good; the units designed for cyclones typically have the impeller and motor above the cyclone and feed the outlet into the top of the fllters, dust collectors not designed for cyclones run all the dust through the impeller and outlet between the filter and dust collection bag/bin.

The 30” fence from SawStop is a price leader; everyone says you need the upgrade. That said, instead of the upgrade, you may want to consider an aftermarket fence instead.

View burlman's profile


4 posts in 1946 days

#12 posted 12-26-2012 01:46 PM

A 220 volt motor will run cooler as the amperage used is just about cut in half. This is the main reason the 220 volt motor should last longer! Getting what you are comfortable with is also important. If possible try out the different saws at the store prior to purchase. Most quality woodworking stores will have a workshop and allow you to give it a go, Woodcraft stores come to mind. The 220 line is well worth the small added expense and you can use it for other 220v tools as well

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics