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Forum topic by magicmark posted 12-23-2012 10:29 AM 972 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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magicmark

22 posts in 697 days


12-23-2012 10:29 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip jointer shaping shaker

I could use some advice here guys. I have an old jointer and I’m not sure I have it set up correctly. Is it possible to make a “u” shape ever so slightly when running the wood that some of the pieces don’t glue up right? ...or is my jointer just messed up?

Also, the middle of these boards are glued up great. There are just a few places on the ends that didn’t glue up or pulled away. The gap is less than a 32nd. Should I just fill them in with filler or cut through and re-glue and mess up my design?

-- Mark ~ Dixon, Kentucky "We're gonna get through this!"


22 replies so far

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crashn

518 posts in 1115 days


#1 posted 12-23-2012 12:31 PM

Totally possible to induce a U in the middle of the board. Could be either your technique or the jointer itself.

Do you use a push stick/block on the jointer? do you keep pressure on the outfeed side when finishing the board? Free hand?

When was the last time you tuned up the jointer, checking for square, level, parallel and co-planer? Knives set correctly?

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1004 days


#2 posted 12-23-2012 06:19 PM

your clamps are inadequate for that kind of multi-board glue up, if you take a good look, you will see they are also bent. you need to get a couple of bar clamps, aluminum clamps or I-beam clamps for that, They will provide you with a flat surface to glue on.

Now if that doesn’t fix the problem, you need to square the fence up, as it’s probably a shave out of square assuming uneven clamping preasure isn’t the culprate.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

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TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1004 days


#3 posted 12-23-2012 06:22 PM

P.S Crashn.

The tables on a jointer are parallel. There are two schools of jointing front and back table jointing, both work equally as well with no issues. However trying to tell a back table jointer to become a front table jointer is what almost made me lose a finger. I was lucky and fast enough just to get a cut on the tip of my finger, but I”m going to have to say something about the “safety” of trying to change the style of jointing someone does.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

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Don W

15017 posts in 1217 days


#4 posted 12-23-2012 06:24 PM

I’d go with everything said so far, especially TCCcabinetmaker’s remarks. I’d also add, dry fit your boards before gluing and make sure you have a good fit.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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pintodeluxe

3354 posts in 1463 days


#5 posted 12-23-2012 06:35 PM

If the ends don’t draw tight at glueup, it may be snipe from improper jointer setup.
Adjust the outfeed table level with your knives. Make sure the tables are co-planer to within .002”.
Set the infeed table for a light cut and try again.
Good luck.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1004 days


#6 posted 12-23-2012 06:48 PM

let him go through the simple stuff first before going to the most complicated stuff…. simple then go from there….

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

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magicmark

22 posts in 697 days


#7 posted 12-23-2012 09:05 PM

Thank you all. I will first get some better clamps. Before I try jointing any more wood, I will go over the jointer from stem to stern. I’ve already discovered that even though my fence is square to the table, my boards are coming out a degree off. So, I have a blade issue for sure. It’s also squeaking when in use so I may have a bearing issue as well. I’m going to cut these boards apart and use the wood where I can and start over on these drawer faces. I was actually able to pull some of these boards apart with my bare hands.

-- Mark ~ Dixon, Kentucky "We're gonna get through this!"

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magicmark

22 posts in 697 days


#8 posted 12-23-2012 09:11 PM

Oh, to answer the first question…I use a push block in my right hand and keep pressure on the board against the fence and down on the blade with my left. I’d say I keep the pressure on the back through the cut. I’ll listen to any advise on a better way. Thanks!

-- Mark ~ Dixon, Kentucky "We're gonna get through this!"

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cutworm

1064 posts in 1443 days


#9 posted 12-23-2012 09:22 PM

Ends of the boards not gluing up. Sounds like your knives may be set a little high – Outfeed table too low. Try to raise the outfeed table to where the knives just barely touch a straightedge laying on the outfeed table.
Go on The New Wookworker site. He has some good videos on jointer setup.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

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crashn

518 posts in 1115 days


#10 posted 12-24-2012 01:43 AM

MagicMark,
I was always taught to keep pressure on the outfeed side, keeping the freshly jointed face against the table once enough was present to get a push block on, then the right had just provides forward pressure enough to advance the piece. I might also say that your outfeed side may be below the TDC of the blades.

TC,
They should be parallel, but if the infeed side slants away from the cutter head (the first most portion of the infeed side), then they will not be parallel. In that case, one would have to shim the dovtail to get it back to parallel.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 947 days


#11 posted 12-24-2012 04:41 AM

yep looks like your underclamped there man you should have at least 4 clamps and get some cabinet grade clamps some that dont bend that mite help

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1004 days


#12 posted 12-24-2012 10:08 AM

crashn,

That’s still a more complicated issue, remember your kiss rule, if it’s one of the more simpler issues deal with that first, but if it’s still not working after he’s trouble shot the simple stuff, then we go on to the more complicated issues. And having almost lost a finger due to a stupid foreman not knowing that they should be parallel, I do take some serious exception to people saying it can only be done the one way…

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

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crashn

518 posts in 1115 days


#13 posted 12-24-2012 12:42 PM

TCC,
agreed. Start with the simple stuff for sure. I lost part of my finger (not woodworking related), so I can feel your pain with stupid supervisors !

crashn

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 947 days


#14 posted 12-24-2012 10:46 PM

you should take a smoothin plane and hit the center of your glue edge before glueup that makes sure your ends are not gapped if the bord is 24” long hit the inside13 or 14”justa couple lite passes

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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magicmark

22 posts in 697 days


#15 posted 12-28-2012 09:06 PM

I’m going to tear into the old jointer today…I’ll let you guys know what I end up with.

-- Mark ~ Dixon, Kentucky "We're gonna get through this!"

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

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