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| Forum topic by Ben | posted 151 days ago | 1268 views | 0 times favorited | 18 replies | ![]() |
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151 days ago |
Is there a place for plywood flat panels in a “high end” stain grade kitchen? I’m wondering if the plywood takes a finish the same as the solid wood door frame and face frame. Would it be better to get my own veneer and apply it to 1/4” MDF? How to design my cabinet doors is really making my head spin. Flat or raised? Cope and stick or find a way to do real mortise and tenon? But the short question here is how nice can a plywood panel look? Would you guys be able to walk into the room and immediately tell it’s plywood? Thanks! |
18 replies so far
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#1 posted 151 days ago |
You do not indicate where you are located so I don’t know if this will work. I got several 1/4” and 3/4” cherry plywood sheets (4X8) two years ago from Peachstate Lumber in Atlanta. Excellent people to work with. The panels were defect free and I used them to make the bodies and the back panels of a set of book cases. They finish well and were an excellent match with the cherry face frames. -- Roger M, Aiken, SC |
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#2 posted 150 days ago |
A woodworker would look at a panel and see the (most common) rotary cut grain pattern…but most of the world does not. Plywood has a lot of advantages, IMHO. Gluing it into the door frame as you mention is one of them, but it does limit you to flat panel doors. If you want to dress the flat panels up you can use an applied molding around the edge. A good grade of plywood is just that: good. I’ve had good luck with Columbia Forest Products stuff, or maybe look for State Industries. -- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard) |
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#3 posted 150 days ago |
Be prepared. I bought a 4×4 piece of cherry ply for 54$. Thats a lot of money for one 4×4x1/2”. -- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy. |
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#4 posted 150 days ago |
The price Russel quotes is right on par with what I regularly spend for cherry plywood. However, IMO, it’s worth every penny. -- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt |
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#5 posted 150 days ago |
For one of the most inherently beautiful solid woods, rotary cut cherry veneer is as boring as boring gets. -- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate |
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#6 posted 150 days ago |
Also you mentioned ply, which can be a layered plywood, or you can go MDF core which is usually cheaper, Dress them up with Applied Mouldings or Fancier Rail and Style design as well. -- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........ |
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#7 posted 150 days ago |
Nothing wrong with using a good grade cherry plywood for the boxes of the cabinets. We are involved with a kitchen upgrade at my house, and some of the most hi-end cabinets out there use plywood for the cabinet boxes and solids for the face-frames and doors. Use a cabinet grade plywood and you will be just fine. -- Wayne - Plymouth MN |
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#8 posted 150 days ago |
The choices are, in cherry ply, rotary cut or plain sliced. Your taste dictates your preference. As for cope and stick, we’ve been doing it for many years and it works just fine. Gluing the panel in is possible, but squeezeout can be annoying and even heartbreaking. Production shops typically angle some brads in to keep the panel from rattling. You could go one better and putty the nail holes : ) Bear in mind that the skinny ply you get will be 5.2mm, not 1/4 in, so your shaper setup needs to plow that dimension for you. I can’t see the benefit in going to mortise and tenon for the doors unless you really like to sand frames. Here is a piece with plain sliced red oak ply panels:
Kindly, Lee -- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It" |
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#9 posted 150 days ago |
That’s a nice looking piece, Lee. Thanks for all the other good replies. |
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#10 posted 150 days ago |
The only place I use cherry ply is in a exposed upper cabinet with glass doors, uppers flanked by the range hood and refridge end panels.3/4 inch stuff works well in these areas .1/4 ply for door panels sound cheap when closed. We use space balls to stop the rattle and soft close hinges.We tried to double the thickness of the panels and then you have to go to 1 inch styles and rails= retooling =PIA.I still recomend out sourcing your doors. 12 bucks for a 12×12 raised panel soild door 100’s of choices for style and rail ,panels and outside edges, sanded ready to finish. Add up material costs and REAL time to build and I dont see how you can go wrong. Dan -- nelson woodcrafters |
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#11 posted 150 days ago |
there are a few kinds of plywood you can substitute in IF you are good enough at color matching which is in itself an art. -- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them. |
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#12 posted 150 days ago |
I wouldn’t. If you’re going through the time and expense to make cherry panel doors I’d use hardwood for the panels so it will perfectly match the frames. You DO NOT want a rigid, glued in panel, it will crack your glue joints eventually. Cut the panel 1/4” overall smaller than the dado and use rubber space balls to act as expansion joints and will stop rattle. Plywood is always smaller than it’s advertised size. Thus a piece of cherry ply would be loose in the dado unless you glued veneer to it to make it a full 1/4 thick. You also do not need to use mortise and tendons in the joints unless you want to for looks. A well glued and clamped rail/cope joint will be stonger than the wood itself. Rick |
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#13 posted 150 days ago |
Just buy premium cabinet grade plywood, not rotary peel plywood. Just glue the ply panels in your door frames, and it will be solid as a rock. -- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush |
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#14 posted 150 days ago |
you are’t supposed to cut the panels to match exactly, you are supposed to leave soem space. I use a product called space balls to space my panels in their dados, so that they don’t move, but also won’t crack the frames, cheap, but the only source I have for them is a company from california called cabinetmaker’s suply, which is online, but the shipping usually doubles my cost on them :/ -- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them. |
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#15 posted 149 days ago |
I live in Marietta,Ga. and I too go to Peachstate Lumber and highly recommend them .. just ask for Keith,he is very knowledgeable and helpful… the cherry plywood looks very nice and stable… should work for you very nicely -- the dumbest question is the one you dont ask !! |
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