Need Advice: The New (To Me) Jet JTAS-10XL-1 Cabinet Saw Project

Wow sounds like a big job to me.I’m not much of a mechanic so I’m afraid I’m not much help. My solution would be to replace it ,but I know lots of other folks would fix it and do a grand job of bringing it back to good operating condition.
Good luck.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Thx Jim. Buddy of mine is quite mechanically adapt, although he’s not a woodworker. Figure if I get in over my head he’ll be happy to laugh while I thrash about. And eventually pitch in.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

It’s more of a sure thing to have a machine shop do the bearings, but it’ll also be more expensive, and not necessarily ”better” than if you do it….just easier. You should be able to isolate the source of the sound by removing the belt and spinning the arbor, then the motor separately.

I’d get some good new belts while you’re at it….high quality cogged rubber belts would be my pick for a cabinet saw with a triple v-belt system.

Get a good blade or two for the new saw….it’ll only cut as well as the blade you put on it. Wax it, align it, get a new insert (ZCI), build a crosscut sled and/or buy a precision miter gauge, and you should be good to go. Enjoy….and post some pics!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

Thx Knotscott.

Any suggestions where to get those belts?

Will post some photos as soon as I get back home. Think I’ll give that electrician a call to get that 220 line installed ASAP.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

Goodyear cogged v-belts ordered.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

My suggestion is to get the Goodyear cogged v-belts! ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

I’ve got Goodyear rubber for my compressor hose and was impressed with the quality. Great minds, etc.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

I took off the belts and saw this: http://mnik.net/external/setscrews_001.jpg

Yep that’s a missing set screw on the right and what I believe to be a a wrong sized one on the left.
Having discovered the source of the noise problem I’m delighted. The arbor pulley rocks making a clicking sound when turned by hand. When powered up that would surely be the unsettling noise I heard when quickly examining the saw for purchase.

Can anyone confirm that that these screws are not supposed to extend into the channel?
From the looks of it, it appears that someone replaced the set screws -forcing them in. Over time (and probably not much) the one on the right fell out.

I’m deciding if it’s worth the trouble to replace the bearings now or just leave well enough alone. What do folks think?
I’m waiting for my electrician to install the 220 line, so it’s not like I’m in any hurry. What’s more I have a perfectly fine working contractor’s saw. Thoughts appreciated.

Lastly, should I take the motor case off and and blow it out? Or will that just force dust into the bearings and other places it shouldn’t be? Maybe take to to the repair shop and have them do it? I’ve read reports about how these particular motors tend to get caked in dust on the inside. Especially around the capacitor Whatever that is.

Thanks folks. I appreciate it.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

Two 50 cent set screws from the local hardware store and like that the arbor slippage’s gone. As I mentioned earlier, I am still waiting for my electrician to install the 220 in the basement, so I haven’t powered it up yet. But pretty that’ll take care of the noise I heard during the purchase.

$601 for a nice cabinet saw? Sweet.

The bearings are on their way, but unless it makes noise while running think I’ll leave well enough alone and not change them out.

Will do a thorough cleaning though.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

My only question would be whether that “channel” you refer to was actually supposed to have a key in it, and the set screws bear down on that?

Underdog, I was wondering the same thing last night. Fortunately the saw’s parts list has the size listed: “SOCKET SET SCREW 1/4-20X3/8” The set screws are pretty recessed into the pulley’s “channel.” As a matter of fact, the ones in the motor pulley are set so deep they’re almost impossible to see even with a flashlight.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

The channel, or keyway, probably should have a key. Your hardware store will have them (no need for a Jet brand—they just get their’s at some hardware store). But measure width first, as keys come in different sizes. I had an old Rockwell contractor’s saw (no, they don’t build them the way they used to—thank God). The arbor pulley liked to creep out on the shaft no matter how tightly I drove in the set screw. Fought it for years (it had other issues too), and was so happy to get rid of it. Like a divorce after a disastrous marriage. What a relief.
When you first posted, I immediately suspected the pulley had shifted over just like mine had done. You bearings may be just fine.

Thank you Run. Yep. There is a key and keyway: http://mnik.net/external/key.png

I looked and looks like I lucked out: the key’s in there: http://mnik.net/external/key.jpg

I appreciate your help and belated congratulations on your contractor’s saw divorce.

Any thoughts on opening up the motor case and blowing it out?

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

D’oh! Not so fast. I was looking a the wrong pulley in regards to the key and keyway. The arbor shaft keyway is concealed. Seeing as it didn’t rock much more than 1/32” when a loosened the set screws again to suss out the situation, I’ve decided to leave well enough alone and not disassemble the arbor. When I get juice down in the shop we’ll see what she does under power and take it from there.

Moving onto the next problem to solve:

In my hurry to get this beast on to my truck we removed the cast iron table and wings. So, yep, you guessed it. There were factory ring shims a couple of the bolts and I have no idea which a one.

Looks like this may help: http://books.google.com/books?id=s_YDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA33&dq=american%20woodworker%20supertune%20your%20tablesaw&pg=PA30#v=onepage&q&f=false

As well as Grizzly’s manual for it’s 1023s which has a description of the process.

One thing’s for sure, not pleasant reading search results for “leveling table saw” and going through post after post about folks trying to make their saw tables exactly level with the floor (?!).

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.

Saw’s up!

http://instagram.com/p/Ur_p5Ji7he/

Also, re: the shim issue as described above: I was able to determine which corners had the shims based on the eroded paint marks in the cabinet base.

-- Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it. But that's my other hobby.