all's i want for christmas

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by younggrasshopper posted 12-20-2012 03:17 PM 938 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View younggrasshopper's profile


4 posts in 1401 days

12-20-2012 03:17 PM

okay so being a new guy on the block I was wondering what kinda able saw to go for. I currently own a small 6 in
delta jointer and a 10 in delta planer and that is about as far as I have made it. I assume the next thing in line would be the table saw. I want a good one and have a limited budget for now until I can convince my wife I really need the power tools. Thank you

12 replies so far

View patron's profile


13524 posts in 2759 days

#1 posted 12-20-2012 03:32 PM

off the top
in your situation
sears might be the best for now saws?storeId=10153&catalogId=12605&vName=Tools&cName=Bench+%26+Stationary+Power+Tools

when you get more established later
you will find better to work with

there is always craigs list too

if you make a drop table for a cheap saw
it will be safer and easier to use

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View derosa's profile


1568 posts in 2253 days

#2 posted 12-20-2012 05:45 PM

Just how limited is your budget and how serious are you looking to get. I started with a craftsman benchtop model and it was the worst thing ever; I’d never buy another. I replaced with with a good contractor’s saw similar to the Ridgid and while I would love bigger and better do not consider what I have to be a necessity to replace until I can afford a sawstop. I would actually start by looking at the ridgid in hope depot that is typically in the 500.00 range. The belt drive is sturdier then the direct drive bench tops, the miter slots on the contractor are usually a universal size so that you can use the same jigs and accessories at the cabinet saws and although dust collection isn’t ideal it is way ahead of the benchtop models. This is one of those items that I would absolutely looked for used and drive a 100 miles to get over buying a benchtop model.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View DKV's profile


3940 posts in 1922 days

#3 posted 12-20-2012 05:58 PM

Grasshopper, we need some help here so we can help you.
1. What kind of budget do you have?
2. What kind of projects are you going to do?
3. What’s your wife like?
Help us…

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

View Rick M.'s profile (online now)

Rick M.

7680 posts in 1798 days

#4 posted 12-20-2012 06:27 PM

A cheap bandsaw is better than a cheap tablesaw, food for thought.


View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 1591 days

#5 posted 12-20-2012 08:07 PM

IMHO , you should get a band saw.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Tedstor's profile


1625 posts in 2050 days

#6 posted 12-20-2012 08:37 PM

Check Craigslist and get a craftsman 113 series saw. Prolly pay around $100-150. The stock fence sucks, but the rest of the machine is pretty stout. You can add a delta T2 fence later as your skills and budget allow. At that point, you’ll have a machine that you won’t soon outgrow.
This is the route I took and am very happy with it. I don’t see myself replacing my 113 until I can afford a cabinet saw.

View runswithscissors's profile


2127 posts in 1443 days

#7 posted 12-20-2012 08:48 PM

Another possibility: the Ryobi BT 3100. (Not the BT3000, as it has a weaker motor). This is a medium duty saw with a sliding crosscut table and provision to attach a router and make it into a routing station. Though it has a universal motor (never as robust or durable as a good induction motor), it nevertheless is a good performer. For what it’s worth, it’s the only 10” saw I know of that can cut a 4×4 in one pass. I’m not sure whether Ryobi still makes it, but they show up on CL pretty often. Sears markets a Craftsman version, made for them by Ryobi, but I am deeply disillusioned by almost everything from Sears. The BT3100 is a bit too big and heavy to be a true portable saw, but it is moveable, which is nice in a small shop. One downside: they don’t have a standard miter gauge slot, though it can be retrofitted. You shouldn’t expect to pay more than $150 to $200, though for a lightly used one you might go for $250. I would avoid the lesser saws in Ryobi’s lineup. Good luck in your search.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View younggrasshopper's profile


4 posts in 1401 days

#8 posted 12-20-2012 11:29 PM

okay well….I was looking into a grizzly hybrid series I think it’s called it retailed for around 795.00 with out tax which I could save up an it would take me about a month. I would like to get into general woodworking cabinets and so forth to start with. So I am preparing myself for the bill on a table saw I just want to get a nice reasonable one for the money

View toolie's profile


2009 posts in 2046 days

#9 posted 12-22-2012 12:53 AM

+1 on comments from derosa and tedstor. either way will get you a saw that will do just about whatever you need it to do without breaking the bank. and that ridgid LSA means never having to pay to have it fixed should a problem develop.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Loren's profile


8158 posts in 3065 days

#10 posted 12-22-2012 01:29 AM

Band saw is a nice investment for making furniture and,
actually, just about everything except straight-forward
casework like cabinets and bookshelf units.

I’d avoid the entry level table saws unless you want to
do home improvement projects. A small vintage table
saw with a belt drive will run quieter and cut accurate
tenon shoulders and so forth. While a big ol’ table saw
saves a lot of sweat if you are processing a great deal
of material, the space requirements to get cuts which
are actually (not theoretically) straight are considerable.

With a jointer and planer you can straighten a rough board
edge, rough cut a frame part off it with a tool as crude as
a sawzall, and then run it through the planer on edge
to make the other edge parallel. While the idea with
a table saw is that you would be able to joint and rip
in a 1-2 sequence and be done with it, the reality is
the frame part frequently moves and needs to be
jointed and made parallel afterwards anyway.

View Rick M.'s profile (online now)

Rick M.

7680 posts in 1798 days

#11 posted 12-22-2012 03:47 AM

The Grizzlys are well regarded for their price range. Many people recommend the Craftsman and Rigid but if you read through other threads here you’ll see there are a number of known problems with them, I would go with the Grizzly or spend a little more and buy a Jet which has a 5 year warranty or even a little more and get a Powermatic.


View kizerpea's profile


774 posts in 1785 days

#12 posted 12-22-2012 11:59 AM

Welcome grasshopper!!!!


Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics