Snipe on short pieces w/ the DW735x

unfortunately that’s the physics of the planer, and with shorter pieces you WILL get snipe.

you could work around it by gluing 2 longer strips on both sides of the short board , then running that through the planer. the longer strips will maintain proper contact with the rollers and will control the snipe on the shorter “middle” piece you are planing.

it does take an extra few steps though, but if you are stuck with shorter pieces to work with, this is a good alternative.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Use a “slave” board and double sided tape.
I do it a lot with my 733.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

Start with a”scrap’ board. As soon as the roller starts the board through, start a good board. At the end of each run of good boards, be sure to run another scrap board. That way, all the snipe gets snipped into the scrap.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

Well, glad to hear I am not alone at least.

A question for you about the slave board Bill. Do you put up pressure on the in/out feed of the board as well? Or is the extra contract w/ the planer bed enough to keep it from tipping and so its planed as if it was the middle of a long board?

Doesn’t the 735 have a head lock like the Delta 22-580?

I have the Delta and once I lock the head at a given depth there is no snipe.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

I have found that if I take TINY cuts, the snipe issue is almost gone. It takes quite a bit longer to get the piece planed, but it seems to be working forme.

And no, the 735 doesnt have the head lock. I belivie it’s the 734 that has it.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

I used a brand new 735 all last summer and never had any problems with snipe. I was very please with the planer. It could be the feed rollers are exerting too much pressure and need to lightened up a bit.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

I barely can take more than 1/32 off without getting snipe with my planer. I’ve also had issues with it moving from the set height. Maybe I have a dud.

the 735 doesnt have a headlock because with it’s 4 post design it doesn’t need to lock the head (it’s sort of automatically done by the columns). the problem with the snipe in this case isn’t the cutterhead, but the rollers – since the pieces are short, they are only being supported by 1 of the rollers which tilts the parts into the cutterhead resulting in snipe. this would happen on any other planer as well regardless of how small of a bite you setup the planer to take. the solution is to use buddy-boards that will maintain proper pressure against both rollers (can be glued, tacked, or screwed to your good board, although only gluing will keep it from having left over holes.

the part about your planer moving from set height is an all different issue…

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

I just got off the phone w/ Dewalt. They suggested taking it back and exchange it since its under 90 days old. They were pretty adamant that I had a dud and there is no reason I should be having the issues I have. Great service at least, hopefully the replacement will work out better.

Purplev,
The Delta has the 4 post design and when you lock the head the rollers no longer spring up or down, they are locked in place.
That means the tension on the board is equalized on both the top and the bottom so it won’t lift or lower as it goes through.

I often run short pieces 16” or less through with no snipe whatsoever.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

if the board isn’t too wide I find sending it through at an angle can help stop the snipe. Not certain why a corner hitting first would get snipe on the corner but it almost never does. Upside is it also seems to reduce tear out on more figured wood.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

I just got a 735 slightly used and i love it. Especially b/c it’s my first planer. Quick question though: when planing short boards, can’t you use a long piece of scrap and feed that in first, then put your short pieces in while the long scrap is still being fed to reduce snipe?

Sirgreggins,
YES. That is the buddy board someone mentioned earlier. The buddy board should be long enough to engage the rollers during infeed & outfeed of the workpiece.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow!

sweet. i’m still a newbie to woodworking. i guess i thought a buddy board was something else. i’m gonna give that a try.