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Questions on finishing with mineral oil

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Forum topic by Sergio posted 572 days ago 1125 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sergio

400 posts in 1278 days


572 days ago

Hello dear Jocks,
I am having my first experiment with mineral oil (and any other oil) since I have only used sealants and varnish for finishing.
I have made this muddler for caipirinha ( to see what caipirinha is go to this: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Caipirinha ) and sanded it to 600 grit. I took care to really sand it in proper way but from the pictures you can see a big difference between the two ends of the piece. One is very even,
the other has dark spots.
Any thoughts on how it happened and what should I do for the next trial?
Tks !!


-- - Greetings from Brazil - --


11 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2163 days


#1 posted 571 days ago

Well first of all Mineral oil is not really a finish it’s just a way to condition wood. I thinks Charles Neil has a very detailed explanation on this in this post ,hope this clears things up for you.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/42936

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3214 posts in 1399 days


#2 posted 571 days ago

Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner is one to try for a non-film forming food-safe finish. The hyphens, like the advise is always free.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2824 posts in 834 days


#3 posted 571 days ago

Heat the mineral oil. It goes deeper, quicker when hot. Don’t put it in a microwave or boil it! I take out my wife’s crock pot (shhh, don’t tell her), fill it with water and then toss the bottle of mineral oil in it (heating the oil while still in the bottle)

Save your money on the commercial “butcher block” finishes. They are all either straight mineral oil, or mineral oil and beeswax. I make my own mineral oil/wax mix in a double boiler. Once I apply it, I pour it back into the mineral oil bottle it came from. The next time I need to use it, I just heat the bottle in the crock pot full of water again.

To Jim’s point, mineral oil is not a finish. There is a debate over the food safe properties of film building finishes, but I believe (and the science supports) that once a finish is cured, it’s food safe. I like to use mineral oil it because I don’t see the point in wasting a film building finish on something I am going to hack up with a knife then scrub vigorously with soap and hot water. The cutting board will need reapplications of something regularly. You can’t really reapply a film building finish, so at some point the board will end up slathered in mineral oil anyway. Save yourself the hassle upfront and skip the thinned poly.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1369 posts in 947 days


#4 posted 571 days ago

Mineral oil is a laxative, not a finish. Nyuk nyuk

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View Sergio's profile

Sergio

400 posts in 1278 days


#5 posted 570 days ago

Well well, sorry, it is not finishing, so I am conditioning the wood, that´s clear. It is also clear that I don´t intend to drink the mineral oil, so I will not run to the ” throne” as Clint has suggested.
The question however remains: Why did I get those dark spots?

-- - Greetings from Brazil - --

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2935 posts in 873 days


#6 posted 570 days ago

That is called blotch. It happens when different densities of wood are exposed to liquid. The softer stuff soaks up more. They sell conditioners for that.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View rum's profile

rum

148 posts in 1172 days


#7 posted 570 days ago

I believe that it was likely due to inconsistent sanding on the endgrain in this case (or at least that explained the difference between the two). I would bet that the blotchier piece wasn’t sanded down as far and so the open grain picked up more oil.

Your solutions here are to either sand less finely (yeah sounds weird but play along) and let it soak up a lot of oil all over then polish it out, this will definitely leave the end darker but probably more consistently so sand more and be careful to sand the entire end grain to a higher polish than the rest.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

939 posts in 721 days


#8 posted 570 days ago

i do not think you did anything wrong, those spots are in the wood!

-- Bill

View ChesapeakeBob's profile

ChesapeakeBob

341 posts in 2069 days


#9 posted 570 days ago

Howard Butcher Block Conditioner says it is made of food grade mineral oil stabilized with vitamin E, beeswax, and canauba wax. Last night and by accident, I wiped a piece of teak with it and then, after I discovered what was on the rag, wiped the entire piece with more of the Howard’s. The results look great and feel great this morning! You just want to touch and rub your hands over the wood. Now my question is this: If I wanted to make my own version, say to use on teak in a boat cabin for instance, what proportions would I use and is mineral oil the right oil to be using? Would I just use an old pot on the stove?

-- Chesapeake Bob, Southern Maryland

View LikeWatch's profile

LikeWatch

4 posts in 458 days


#10 posted 402 days ago

Gorgeous cutting board – what type of wood?

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2235 days


#11 posted 402 days ago

these spots have nothing to do with your sanding- they are part of the natural wood. some natural and normal irregularities in the wood will cause some spots to be more absorbent than other areas causing these “spots” which are nothing more than density differences in the wood fibers.

unless you are going for the clean museum type look, I would leave those in and not worry about them, makes the wood projects remind us these are made of wood and are alive and warm and not plasticy and engineered.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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