Best TS blades. Freud vs. Diablo - any difference?

I have a Freud thin kerf and I see no reason to try anything else.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

These are two distinct lines, that only share a handful of comparable blades, and they’re marketed differently. The Diablo series only offers thin kerf blades AFAIK, and caters more to the construction business and homeowners. The Industrial series often offers both full and some thin kerf, and caters more to industrial shops, and serious hobbyists. According to Charles McCracken from Freud, the blades that are similar design that are offered by both lines are made from the same materials on the same machines to the same standards. All made in Italy. The Industrial series offers more carbide, which can be sharpened more times….and often more elaborate anti-noise/anti-vibration slots when both series offer a comparable blade, which only pertains to a handful of them. The amount of carbide shouldn’t make a difference in cutting performance, but the an/av slots could.

There are other isolated differences too….ie: the 24T 10” ripping blades – the Diablo D1024X has an ATB grind, whereas the LU87R010 thin kerf Industrial rip blade uses a flat top grind (FTG), which tends to be more efficient plus leaves a flat bottom….the grinds, and therefore the performance, are not the same.

Is the price difference justified? ....that’s a matter of opinion, and it depends a lot on what that price difference is. If it’s reasonably close, the Industrial line owns all the other advantages.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

Still with us Dustdog?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

So, which do you think gives a better or cleaner cut, like for glue ups for table tops and the like? I used to use a 24 tooth Freud back in the day…. LM something, I forget now. Unfortuneately I’ve been away from woodworking for many years, but plan to get back into it :o)

I like them both. I have a Diablo thin kerf rip blade as my main tablesaw blade. If you are one who tends to replace blades, rather than have them sharpened, the Diablo is for you. I also have a 50 tooth industrial Freud combination blade that I use for joinery cuts like making grooves for frame and panel assemblies. It cuts a nice flat bottom, and can be sharpened multiple times.
The Diablo produces cuts that are ready for glueups. Every bit as good as my jointer. The industrial blade tends to burn more, because it is a full kerf blade in my 1-3/4 hp saw. In a 3-5 hp cabinet saw it would probably work fine.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

Scott- Are you certain that the Diablo 24 tooth has ATB. I thought they were flat?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

Andy, the Diablo has an ATB.. I bought one and I hate it. I needed to cut a bunch of Bodark and after about 20 cuts that blade is toast.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

Dallas, I cut Bodark with my 24 tooth Diablo and it holds up well??? Maybe your Bodark has accumulated more silica than mine (Ks Bodark vs. Tx Bodark?)

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

”So, which do you think gives a better or cleaner cut, like for glue ups for table tops and the like?”

Getting the best cut is more a matter of choosing the correct blade for the task, than Freud Diablo vs Freud Industrial. In cases where the blades are nearly identical, like the Diablo D1040X vs the LU86R010, there shouldn’t be much of a difference in cut quality…the LU86 has more carbide and can be resharpened more times. An 80T blade from both lines will leave a cleaner cut if it doesn’t burn the heck out of the wood, but more teeth also means more resistance, more heat, etc…..there’s never a free lunch….always a trade off of one performance advantage vs another….sort of like dragsters vs Indy cars – which is better? Tips for picking saw blades. (some reading for you if you want to learn more)

”Scott- Are you certain that the Diablo 24 tooth has ATB. I thought they were flat?”

Yep….the LU87 also had ATB teeth at one time, but they changed it to an FTG a few years ago, so now it’s a TK version of the LM72.
From the Diablo website:
”D1024X 10” Table Saw Ripping 24 ATB 5/8” .098” 15º”

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

Thanks Scott. I can’t believe I questioned you! LOL

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

Andy, it’s quite possible our Bodark has more silica.

We are on top of an iron formation where a minor little meteorite splashed down around the Yucatan a few years back and killed the dinosaurs.

Cutting a small cherry tree into strips for splines and small boards almost did it in. I had to go back to my old Oshlun saw blade to get finished.

The Diablo was less than 3 weeks old.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

Getting the best cut is more a matter of choosing the correct blade for the task, than Freud Diablo vs Freud Industrial. In cases where the blades are nearly identical, like the Diablo D1040X vs the LU86R010, there shouldn’t be much of a difference in cut quality…the LU86 has more carbide and can be resharpened more times.

I agree, right blade for the right job. I’d been using the thicker kerf 24T Freud blades specifically designed for ripping glue ups. I have about 380 BF of ash to rip and plane for extention jams, casings and base and think I’ll try a thin kerf now. Just getting a shop set up in the basement, so dust collection is 1st on my short list!!

Thanks Knotscott