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TS ALigner Jr.

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Forum topic by electricalD posted 12-17-2012 06:21 PM 3627 views 3 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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electricalD

116 posts in 2503 days


12-17-2012 06:21 PM

Looking to buy a TS Aligner Jr. Anyone have one that is looking to sell it?

Regards,
Dan P.

-- If there were no God, there would be no atheists, G. K. Chesterton


19 replies so far

View IrreverentJack's profile

IrreverentJack

724 posts in 2237 days


#1 posted 12-27-2012 05:13 PM

Dan I just saw one on Ebay. -Jack

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NiteWalker

2735 posts in 1970 days


#2 posted 12-28-2012 12:20 AM

Those are a waste of money (the table saw aligner jigs). You can get your saw to within .001 with a miter gauge, scrap of wood, and set of $4 feeler gauges. I splurged a bit and spent $10 on a dial indicator from harbor freight.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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electricalD

116 posts in 2503 days


#3 posted 12-28-2012 12:18 PM

Hey Jack,

They won’t ship to Canada.

Dan

-- If there were no God, there would be no atheists, G. K. Chesterton

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 2237 days


#4 posted 12-28-2012 05:42 PM

Dan, I think Rick and NiteWalker have a point. When I bought my TS Aligner Jr there wasn’t as much good information available as there is now. Search table saw alignment on LJs. Always check out Matthias Wandel’s Woodgears.ca. Ed Bennett’s Table Saw Alignment site and the JR’s instruction video will teach the concepts you need without having to wait the better part of a year and spend close to $200. The TS Jr works great and is a well made tool. Spending the money on it isn’t a waste but I agree it isn’t necessary for good results. Does Harbor Freight ship to Canada?

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electricalD

116 posts in 2503 days


#5 posted 12-29-2012 10:13 AM

Hey Guys,

I am not an experienced woodworker at all. I have just finished my shop and I haven’t even cut a dovetail yet. But I am very familiar with machinery. I have read through Ed Bennet’s web site and yes the man is a bit on the bold side and yes his tool costs money but I have not seen a solid argument to refute his device. I know that people will argue that you can get good cuts with a saw using the trial and error method or using a device like a dial indicator and a stick and even Ed Bennet admits this can get you to accuracy over time. But I am after accuracy with no doubts and after reading Ed Bennet’s web site, I know that mathematically his device is sound. I don’t want to mess around with a dial indicator on a stick that I have to devise myself or come up with a makeshift way of doing things. I want a device dedicated for the job and something that is accurate the first time. So Jack, if you truly feel that, “there wasn’t as much good information available as there is now”, then are you willing to part with yours? Not to be provocative here but I think Mr. Bennett’s device is accurate and a dedicated device that works.

Regards,
Dan P.

-- If there were no God, there would be no atheists, G. K. Chesterton

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 2237 days


#6 posted 12-29-2012 06:27 PM

The TS Jr works great and is a well made tool

When I was trying to improve my old POS saw (15yrs ago?) the most common info/advise I came across was to purchase an aluminium plate that was somehow machined PERFECTLY flat (and could magically stay that way) and use it as a reference when it was attached to the arbor. This was less useful than old car mechanics that would say all you needed to gap plugs and points was a matchbook cover and/or a tooth pick. Discovering Ed Bennett’s products and site was a breath of fresh air. The TS Jr was and might still be the best of that type of tool. My son and I have two of them(they are not for sale). That said, even though his site may have the best information and his products are beautifully conceived and manufactured, purchasing a TS Aligner Jr from Ed can be a PITA. What Rick and NiteWalker suggested is true- There are cheaper ways to to the same job. -Jack

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NiteWalker

2735 posts in 1970 days


#7 posted 12-29-2012 11:01 PM

Also, keep in mind Dan, that the $130 tsaligner will not get you any closer than a $.05 brass screw.

From Howard Acheson, a woodworking and finishing guru:
“Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and teach to my students now.

Make 3/4×3/4×12” hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8×1” round head wood screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn’t, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and one front trunnion bolt. Slightly loosen the other front trunnion bolt and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

For cabinet saws, loosen the bolts that hold the tabletop and tap one corner until things come into alignment.

The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel—if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 – .002.

You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.

Bottom line, there is no need to spend more than the $0.05 for the brass screw. “

Also, get a copy of kelly mehler's The Table Saw Book.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View RogerInColorado's profile

RogerInColorado

321 posts in 1348 days


#8 posted 01-23-2013 03:18 AM

I tried to buy one of Ed Bennett’s accurate machinist’s squares a couple of years ago. After no response what-so-ever to three e-mails and 4 phone calls (into an answering machine) It occurred to me that if I needed support after the sale, I would have no way of getting it. I gave up.

Garageworks.com has a super slick way of doing it.

View GregH's profile

GregH

36 posts in 597 days


#9 posted 06-25-2016 05:20 PM

For all those, like me, who were considering the TS-Aligner:
It’s June, 2016 and the price list on ts-aligner.com is from 2008. Ed Bennett’s tablesawalignment.com blog hasn’t been updated since 2009 and new members to the list never get an actual login – they just use the temporary credentials automatically emailed to them.
I sent an email to Ed but have not received a reply. Based on everything I’ve read he is no longer in production. Even though the website remains active I fear it is really just a ghost.

-- I was in the market for a new obsession and wound up here.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1050 posts in 3007 days


#10 posted 06-27-2016 02:11 AM

NiteWalker is right!
It doesn’t take any more than this to align your saw!

Those threaded portions are just the simple parts you can find at the hardware store with threads on one end and a lag screw on the other end.

All the dial indicators I have used have a tab with a hole in it on the back that can be used to mount it:

A couple of nuts and voila!

Note that the miter slot slide on mine is attached with a couple of thumbscrews. I have other jigs for alignment or measuring that I can attach this base to with the thumbscrews. The threads on both ends allow flexibility in mounting the dial indicator. You’ll find a lot of uses for the dial indicator when you have one!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View GregH's profile

GregH

36 posts in 597 days


#11 posted 06-27-2016 09:14 PM

EEngineer,
Thanks for the pictures. How did you ensure you were perpendicular to the miter slot?

-- I was in the market for a new obsession and wound up here.

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EEngineer

1050 posts in 3007 days


#12 posted 06-30-2016 09:43 AM

I line it up with a square. Note that the slider that fits in the miter slot is attached with thumb screws – there’s a little give. The plywood base is cut square and the block that holds the dial indicator was set square to one side of it.

But it really doesn’t matter – small differences in the angle don’t affect adjustment. What you care about is the relative difference from one end of the blade to the other. Take a measurement at the front end of the blade, making sure that the slider is held tight against the side of the miter slot closest to the blade. Take another measurement at the rear of the blade, again making sure that the slider is held tight against the side of the miter slot closest to the blade. Any difference between the two is what you want to trim out. Having the dial indicator perfectly perpendicular to the blade or miter slot is not critical.

Once you have the blade parallel to the miter slot, use the same method to set your fence.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

869 posts in 1429 days


#13 posted 06-30-2016 02:26 PM

None of these do you ANY good if your fence won’t STAY lined up.

That’s my problem; a cheapo crap fence on a Rigid TS.

I have one of the Aligner Tools, and I like it, but like folks say, you can do the same thing with a lot less money.

-- "woodworker with an asterisk"

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

5598 posts in 2761 days


#14 posted 06-30-2016 05:28 PM

EEngineer, hit the nail on the head, that is the simplest and best way to do alingment!
Remember the KISS,, Keep It Simple Stupid, principle!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View GregH's profile

GregH

36 posts in 597 days


#15 posted 07-02-2016 03:07 PM

Thanks for the guidance. I have a Ridgid R4512 TS and I like the saw but the fence has to be re-aligned every time it is moved. I’m frustrated with the accuracy when using a combination square. Using a dial indicator seems the way to go. It’s good to know I don’t have to spend $200 to get a straight cut.
I truly appreciate the wisdom on this board because when it comes to ‘KISS’ I believe I’m the second ‘S’! :-D

-- I was in the market for a new obsession and wound up here.

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