Cure time for blo mix

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Forum topic by Weatherman posted 12-15-2012 04:18 PM 1204 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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18 posts in 2651 days

12-15-2012 04:18 PM

I apologize if this has been posted elsewhere, but I couldn’t find a direct answer in my searching. I’m finishing up my crib build for my first child (due Jan 10th). The crib is solid cherry. For the finish, I just put on a coat of blo/mineral spirits/varnish (equal parts) to make it pop. I’ve used this mix before on cherry and I love it. I know some people use tung oil as well, but I didn’t have any on hand. I’ve used this on a smaller scale (cabinet doors and such), but never on something as big a this crib. I had planned on using general finishes high performance satin (water based). I know I need to let the blo mix cure completely before applying and that it depends on temperature, but I’m going to be down to the wire here soon and the wife is itching to have the baby room done. I’m outside Houston so the temps have been relatively warm. How long do you guys think I should wait before spraying the topcoat?


-- Brian

7 replies so far

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

4197 posts in 2433 days

#1 posted 12-15-2012 04:31 PM

IMHO, you’re asking for trouble spraying a water based finish over an oil base. It can be done, but I am not comfortable spraying a water base on an oil base less than 48 hours old, assuming thin application, warm temps (above 65) and low humidity (less than 40%). If you can smell it or if it bleeds under local heat (hot air gun) it is definitely not ready. I just don’t like the adhesion risk factor in mix and match gambles.
I would try a sample before doing the whole thing! Maybe a bottom side if a sample isn’t available. A coat of quick dry sealer may help you out.

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL Now there's a face that would stop a clock! And seriously mess with small watches.

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3776 days

#2 posted 12-15-2012 04:36 PM

Given your dealing with cherry it is very prone to blotching this means you need to use a conditioner on first to help control the possibility of blotching. The most effective conditioner is one made by Charles Neil a finishing and woodworking expert .Here’s a review I did on it. The other thing blotch control does is it allows plywood and hardwood to have the same color otherwise the two look very different . Charles is also coming out with a book that covers all aspects of finishing that would be a great aid for finishing on future projects.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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18 posts in 2651 days

#3 posted 12-15-2012 04:48 PM

I agree Dan, it’s not my first choice for something like this. I was planning on probably a week drying time or so at a minimum. I have another project that I’m building for a friend for Christmas. I should have that one built and in stain in a few days. I was going to spray both at the same time so i only have to build a spray booth in my garage once. Thats one reason I like the water based finish as it dries so quickly. There’s less chance of dust nibs finding their way in there. I have a couple test pieces that I made when I did the oil on the crib so I’ll test those first and see how the drying is going. I’ve had fans on the pieces 24/7 and actually moved them in the house to help keep the humidity down a bit (wife wasn’t too happy on that one).

Jim, thanks for the info. I’ve been meaning to order some of Charles’s blotch control. I’ve been using a 1lb cut of shellac for a while on some of the blotchier hardwoods. I’d like to try his out.

-- Brian

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2457 posts in 4069 days

#4 posted 12-15-2012 05:12 PM

If I was doing this, first I would not have used BLO , there are better products that will give the pop you want and dry much bettter. That said now that its on I would let it dry at least a week and give it a light coat of shellac, the shellac will ensure you have good adhesion, with the water base ,a 1lb cut is all you need. FYI the spray cans of shellac are 1lb cut

While your doing this, try some shellac as the grain popper on a scrap, it will dry duller than the BLO , but will be dry in a few hours, 2 coats wouldnt hurt either. When the top coat is applied the pop will be there. Works well
The pop , or warming is a result of the solvent reaction with the wood, oil’s contribute little to no color, again its the solvent reaction, try the oil on some thing like plain white maple, it has far less tannins than cherry, let the oil dry and you got zip for color,. The shellac has alcohol so it will also react, the difference with the shellac is it dries faster , so the darkening is not quite as much as a slower drying oil, which I like on natural cherry , the slower drying oils while a little darker , also blotch it in many cases . The cherry will darken on its own, so the difference between the shellac and oil is slight, in a week or 2 the cherry color will be the same irrespective of what you use. shellac is just quick, fast and the results are assured.

If you want a oil as a first coat , I suggest either Arm R Seal or Formbys tung oil in a gloss , both will do what you want and be dry in a couple to 3 days.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5173 posts in 2692 days

#5 posted 12-15-2012 05:40 PM

If that varnish in your mix was a polyurethane forumula, you would most certainly want to give it a coat of dewaxed shellac (such as Sealcoat, or mix your own) prior to applying a waterborne. If you use the shellac, a day or 2 of drying will be plenty.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2560 days

#6 posted 12-16-2012 05:02 PM

The concoction you used is a problematic finish (BLO is only good for starting fires). I would scrub it down with naptha and maroon scotchbrite to eliminate as much of the gunk as possible, wait a week, and hit it with the waterborne.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

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18 posts in 2651 days

#7 posted 12-16-2012 07:30 PM

Thanks for the help everyone!

-- Brian

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