So I am attempting my first cutting board. It is the standard staggered end grain like the woodwhisperer video.
I jointed and planed all my pieces to ensure they were uniform in size. I clamped them up with my Jorgensen Cabinet Master clamps and used cauls on the ends. It looked pretty good when I was finished clamping everything. THough it was difficult to tell exactly because of the squeeze out.
However, when I checked on it in the morning, it was very uneven. I am not sure exactly what happened. If the parts slipped or maybe warped slightly. I didn't move it after clamp up though.
I was able to get the board fairly level after 30 minutes of sanding with 60 grit on a ROS.
Anyone have any tips on keeping the pieces level to one another when the glue is drying?
Thanks
I'm not familiar with Marc's video on this but it sounds like you glued it all up at once . Maybe if you glued half or a third at a time you would have better success. Scott's idea about cauls is a good idea too.
You may have applied too much pressure. If you use too much it can force the wood to move out of alignment. There is bound to be some movement and it is unrealistic (at least in my experience) to expect things to come out of the clamps perfectly smooth, you will always have to do some post glue sanding. To aid alignment you could use biscuits when doing the final glue. The biscuits will help keep everything aligned. If you don't have a biscuit jointer you could also just use some splines although you would see those on the ends of the board. If you used a contrasting wood it might not be bad though. 30 minutes w/ 60 grit paper does seem like an excessive amount of sanding, maybe someone else will weigh in with another solution.
I think it's really strange that you had that much of a problem when using cauls. Stupid question but have you checked to make sure your cauls are flat? Maybe next time add more cauls and clamp along the length of the cauls as well as at the ends.
When I make cutting boards I glue them up all at once and have never had any trouble doing it that way.
I have also read about people applying the glue to the strips, then pinning them in place with a 23G pin nailer (just until the glue sets) and, finally, clamping all the pieces together. The pins (one at each end of the strip) prevent the slippage you experienced. I have never done this, so take it for what it is worth.
I noticed on the Wood Whisperer video that OP refered to that he hardly uses any clamping pressure. I think because he went to so much effort to make sure all pieces were true that it wasn't necessary to bear down on the clamps. Most people over tighten the clamps, causing wood to slip out…plus using a variety of clamps makes for unequal pressure application. On the video, he uses a minimum of clamps and they match.
I actually did joint the cauls. The unevenness was further towards the center of the board.
The more I think about it, the more I think it was too much clamping pressure. I re-watched the WW video, and I didn't position the clamps like he did either.
One other thought, it appears that you only clamped the cauls on the ends. Unless your cauls have a convex edge, any pressure at the ends will cause them to bow up in the middle, or at least provide less clamping pressure there than at the ends. That, combined with excessive clamping pressure on your pipe clamps could cause movement before the glue sets. Wood under pressure, like water, follows the path of least resistance. Good luck with the next one!
if you jointed your cauls, but only clamped them at the ends - they could bow, leaving the center area un-clampped (by the cauls) which would then be free to move out of alignment, especially if you apply a lot of clamping pressure.
you should either make sure your cauls are convex properly and clamp on their ends, or if you use jointed cauls, make sure you clamp all along them.
I've gone to cutting hardwood 5/4 pieces very flat and using them in three places to clamp the wood down flat while I'm gluing them up. There is going to be a little unevenness but nothing like what I had without it. Just a couple thick walnut pieces cut absolutely straight with shipping tape on them to keep them from sticking to the glue.
Try it.
Would a thickness planer and the cutting board stabilized on a plywood sled not also work? Once the top is flattened, flip it over and plane the other side (sans plywood), then sand with the ROS.
Is this crazy talk? I've been known to speak it from time to time.
I know you shouldn't send end grain through the planer. But I guess you could after the first glue up because it will still be long grain. The thing I was wondering with that is if the all the glue squeeze out would damage the planer knives.
I feel your frustration, My first cutting board turned out the same. Then after a few frustrating attempts and some research online, I started to pin everything with little dowels.. Works Perfect--
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