LumberJocks

Removing Ridges and/or Router Bit Suggestion

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by mattm posted 08-24-2008 03:28 PM 880 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View mattm's profile

mattm

27 posts in 2304 days


08-24-2008 03:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jig maple router sanding milling

Since these questions may be linked, I decided to make them a 2-for-1 topic.

Anyway, since I don’t currently have a planer, I built a planing jig for my router that is a lot like this one, except my router is screwed onto a double layer of metal strips instead of using metal rods:

http://www.woodzone.com/tips/planerjig.htm

To my surprise, this method actually seems to work fairly well. I move the router side to side over the board in a “cross cutting” fashion, instead of taking long passes from bottom to top, since it is easier to control that way. The problem is that this leaves a bunch of ridges on the board.

I have been sanding it by hand with 100 grit paper in a sanding block and then finishing up with a card scraper. This has made things flat and smooth, but no matter how hard or long I seem to sand the board, I can never quite get rid of some of the streaks or lines that are left-over from where the ridges used to be. This is with hard maple, if that matters.

So, I’m wondering if I need to just keep on sanding, or if I actually need something like a palm or random orbital sander to get the job done here. Or am I just stuck with these streaks?

Alternatively, is there a router bit that won’t leave these ridges? I’ve been using the straight bit that was included with my Triton router for this.

Thanks much for any insights.


4 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15698 posts in 2876 days


#1 posted 08-24-2008 03:41 PM

I don’t have any experience using a router planing jig, but I can tell you this much for sure: If those ridges aren’t going away, you aren’t sanding enough. A decent random orbit sander isn’t very expensive, and it will save you tons of time and elbow grease.

If you can feel the ridges with your fingertips before you atart sanding, I would start with 80 grit, then 150, and finally 220. If you prefer a card scraper to provise your final smoothing, that’s great. Just sand out those ridges first! Even with a power sander, it is easy to make the mistake of not spending enough time with your coarse grit.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Roper's profile

Roper

1359 posts in 2370 days


#2 posted 08-24-2008 04:40 PM

you could also use a number 6 hand plane to get rid of the ridges then just sand as you are.

-- Roper - Master of sawdust- www.roperwoodturning.com

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

904 posts in 2473 days


#3 posted 08-24-2008 05:09 PM

I have not used this technique so don’t take this as gospel but thinking through it you might check to see if the router is level on the jig. I seems to me that if one side of the bit is “tipped lower” than the other side you might experience the ridges you are describing.

Just a thought.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

View mattm's profile

mattm

27 posts in 2304 days


#4 posted 08-27-2008 11:34 PM

Excellent suggestions, thank you much. I shall have to give these techniques a shot and see how things turn out.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase