Removing Ridges and/or Router Bit Suggestion

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Forum topic by mattm posted 08-24-2008 03:28 PM 1313 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View mattm's profile


27 posts in 3613 days

08-24-2008 03:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jig maple router sanding milling

Since these questions may be linked, I decided to make them a 2-for-1 topic.

Anyway, since I don’t currently have a planer, I built a planing jig for my router that is a lot like this one, except my router is screwed onto a double layer of metal strips instead of using metal rods:

To my surprise, this method actually seems to work fairly well. I move the router side to side over the board in a “cross cutting” fashion, instead of taking long passes from bottom to top, since it is easier to control that way. The problem is that this leaves a bunch of ridges on the board.

I have been sanding it by hand with 100 grit paper in a sanding block and then finishing up with a card scraper. This has made things flat and smooth, but no matter how hard or long I seem to sand the board, I can never quite get rid of some of the streaks or lines that are left-over from where the ridges used to be. This is with hard maple, if that matters.

So, I’m wondering if I need to just keep on sanding, or if I actually need something like a palm or random orbital sander to get the job done here. Or am I just stuck with these streaks?

Alternatively, is there a router bit that won’t leave these ridges? I’ve been using the straight bit that was included with my Triton router for this.

Thanks much for any insights.

4 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4184 days

#1 posted 08-24-2008 03:41 PM

I don’t have any experience using a router planing jig, but I can tell you this much for sure: If those ridges aren’t going away, you aren’t sanding enough. A decent random orbit sander isn’t very expensive, and it will save you tons of time and elbow grease.

If you can feel the ridges with your fingertips before you atart sanding, I would start with 80 grit, then 150, and finally 220. If you prefer a card scraper to provise your final smoothing, that’s great. Just sand out those ridges first! Even with a power sander, it is easy to make the mistake of not spending enough time with your coarse grit.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Roper's profile


1389 posts in 3679 days

#2 posted 08-24-2008 04:40 PM

you could also use a number 6 hand plane to get rid of the ridges then just sand as you are.

-- Roper - Master of sawdust-

View ChicoWoodnut's profile


904 posts in 3781 days

#3 posted 08-24-2008 05:09 PM

I have not used this technique so don’t take this as gospel but thinking through it you might check to see if the router is level on the jig. I seems to me that if one side of the bit is “tipped lower” than the other side you might experience the ridges you are describing.

Just a thought.

-- Scott - Chico California

View mattm's profile


27 posts in 3613 days

#4 posted 08-27-2008 11:34 PM

Excellent suggestions, thank you much. I shall have to give these techniques a shot and see how things turn out.

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