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Forum topic by wraith posted 99 days ago 289 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites
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wraith

16 posts in 99 days


99 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question joining

A question for those of you with more experience than I: I’m getting married soon and decided to build our marriage bed myself. Pictures are forthcoming. The sides of my headboard taper towards the top leaving me with a face angled at 84 degrees. I have a top board with a double roman ogee routed around the front and sides. it overhangs the sides and front of the headboard. Here’s my problem – I’d like to have a dentil molding wrap around the sides and front, but if I cut my side pieces to 84 degrees and then miter them at 45 degrees, will they match up with the front? Thanks to all who can reply and help me out

-- The platypus is nature's way of saying "I made this thing out of spare parts I found on the floor, and it can still cripple you."

View Quixote's profile

Quixote

118 posts in 174 days


99 days ago

In my experience….

You asked…Will they match up in the front?

I’d imagine that your new bride would be curved more…

More experienced advice…
You may want to spend some time wallpapering a room or have your bride to be help you with the bed building. Don’t let her pick the colors…

You’ll learn more about being married in the next couple of hours than it takes most men years to experience…

About the angles for your molding…

I’m trying to picture a visual, but I’m thinking you’ll have to compensate for your 6 degree slant if you plan to keep your moldings paralell to the floor.

Square to the headboard itself should be ok with 45’s.

SInce I’m not clear on the design, for me, I’d make a test run with scrap to make sure it had the fit you needed. Adjust where needed.

Oh, by the way…welcome to Lumberjocks..

Q

-- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch."

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wraith

16 posts in 99 days


98 days ago

By the way, I saw someone had a sketchup photo shown – I tried photobucket but I can’t upload sketchup views to it. How do I upload a sketchup view? I used that program to give me a starting blueprint and it would help explain my question a little better if I could just show you the plan – Thank you all

-- The platypus is nature's way of saying "I made this thing out of spare parts I found on the floor, and it can still cripple you."

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

605 posts in 290 days


98 days ago

If you are not using the pro version you basicly have to export as a picture. I basicly get the view of the project I want in Sketchup. I the press alt+print screen the project has to have focus. Then open Paint up and paste into it. I then crop down to what I want out of the picture and then save as a jpg. Hope this helps, let me know if I can help you more with this.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

4577 posts in 754 days


98 days ago

I’m getting married soon and decided to build our marriage bed myself. Pictures are forthcoming.

Okay, but just remember… this is a family website. :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View wraith's profile

wraith

16 posts in 99 days


97 days ago

So here’s my problem:
headboard problem
Hey the pic trick worked great! Thanks sIke!

-- The platypus is nature's way of saying "I made this thing out of spare parts I found on the floor, and it can still cripple you."

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

194 posts in 273 days


97 days ago

This is a very simple cut to make. Set the saw at 45 degrees for both cuts. The face is cut at 90 degrees and the side piece is cut at the desired angle. The side cut, with the slight angle, is called a compound angle cut.
You will need to also cut the face board edges to the corresponding side angle in order to have it sit properly in relation to the side board. For example. Say your side angle is 5 degrees. Then your face board will need the bevel cut at 5 degrees on the top and bottom edges and at the correct width so they mate up with the side board. Sometimes the bottom of the face board is left at 90 degrees in relation to the face for design purposes or for attaching doors. This would allow the door and face board to have a proper alignment when viewed from the side. Hop this helps.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View grumpycarp's profile

grumpycarp

208 posts in 282 days


97 days ago

Additionally, the “sprung” molding (the molding that is not plumb, in this case the front) needs to begin life wider if you want the bottom edges to remain horizontal because it is beveled both top and bottom to remain on the same horizon as the sides. It becomes in essence a parallelogram. If you add a profile to the molding, then you will have additional problems with the detail lining up, which is what you might be asking about. I see a couple of ways around this if this is what you’re asking but you just can’t marry a plumb cut with a miter and still maintain the same “horizon” without additional massage.

Also, dentil molding is generally not seen on an overhanging or reclining surface. (anyone have an example otherwise?) You could make it work by adding a fillet to the back side and making it once again plumb. But ask yourself why you are adding a dentil molding to this design to begin with.

If I’m on the same page with you drop me a line and I’ll line out a couple of options.

View wraith's profile

wraith

16 posts in 99 days


95 days ago

Thanks for the advice on the compound angle cut. To answer your question about why dentil, the bed itself is a pretty straightforward, no nonsense design. I knew I wanted an overhanging “cap” on the headboard, so when I cut and routed it to size I took my cast off piece to a home center. Out of all the different moldings they had, the dentil just seemed to make the cap jump out. Everything else just seemed bland compared to that.

-- The platypus is nature's way of saying "I made this thing out of spare parts I found on the floor, and it can still cripple you."

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