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Undermount Slides Specs?

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Forum topic by Ben posted 12-09-2012 01:57 AM 1994 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


12-09-2012 01:57 AM

Having a hard time understanding the PDFs on these drawer slides.
For the Blum Tandem Undermounts, am I understanding correctly that they require a 1/2” recess below the drawer bottom?

Is Accuride the same? Basically I’m looking for a full extension undermount slide with the slimmest clearance requirements.

Thanks.


14 replies so far

View cutworm's profile

cutworm

1064 posts in 1450 days


#1 posted 12-09-2012 02:06 AM

As far as I know they are all 1/2”. I’ve used Blum and Grass and they seem pretty much the same.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

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Wdwerker

333 posts in 890 days


#2 posted 12-09-2012 02:09 AM

You need at least that much room to support the drawer bottoms no matter how thick they are, solid wood or ply.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


#3 posted 12-09-2012 02:10 AM

Right. As long as they are no more than 1/2” I’ll be fine.
Much more than that, and with a 1/2” thick bottom, hardly any actual drawer!

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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


#4 posted 12-09-2012 02:17 AM

ruh-roh, roy

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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


#5 posted 12-09-2012 02:26 AM

Dang, that sucks. So in my 5 1/2” drawer opening, I’d really have 3 7/16” on the inside?

Looks like I might do wood slides after all…

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Wdwerker

333 posts in 890 days


#6 posted 12-09-2012 02:33 AM

I have made the recessed bottom deeper to reduce the visible gap. Don’t get too wrapped up in trying to reclaim space required by quality hardware, accept it as fact and move on. I always do the math and even do a test fit mock ups to make sure how much space to leave for the slides.
Extreme care must be taken for the case and drawers to be very square. Crooked cases and out of square drawers will be much harder to install.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


#7 posted 12-09-2012 03:34 AM

Have you guys ever used something like this? http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=882_883_894&product_id=10399

Looks like that would allow me to build a traditional box with an integral front, tight to the opening.

Bit more money per pair and I’d only get 75lbs. capacity instead of 100.

This drawer design is killing me.

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Wdwerker

333 posts in 890 days


#8 posted 12-09-2012 03:41 AM

What you gain in height you loose in side clearance. Price on those Accurides seems a bit high to me, but I use KV slides for side mount. The off brand undermount slides are cheaper and harder to install with less adjustments built in, save your money and pay with time and aggravation, your choice!

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


#9 posted 12-09-2012 03:43 AM

Wdwerker, take another look. Those slides can be “flat-mounted” underneath the box.
Rated at 75lbs pair installed this way.

Probably save 1/2” in height or so, but more important, I can build an integral drawer front.

View hooky's profile

hooky

361 posts in 1975 days


#10 posted 12-09-2012 06:18 AM

persevere with the blum tamdem runners if you can understand draw build because they are the best double extension soft close runners you can use (being a cabinet maker i have used a lot )

you dont have to rebate the bottom the half inch but if you do the runner will be wont be seen when the draw is open

Hooky

-- Happiness is a way of travel , not a destination (Roy Goodman)

View Wdwerker's profile

Wdwerker

333 posts in 890 days


#11 posted 12-09-2012 07:34 AM

You will get some sag if you flat mount those slides, I have tried it and was not happy with the results. What is the advantage to an integral drawer front? An applied front can be sized and adjusted for near perfect margins.
There are adjustments on the Blum undermount slides to level and square the drawer to the face of the opening.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

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Ben

203 posts in 1514 days


#12 posted 12-09-2012 03:01 PM

Ok guys. I’ll get the Blum Tandems.
One more question:

From my outside face frame to inside back of cabinet is 23 1/4” (because I have a 3/4” back).

I want to inset my drawer faces. Do I get a 21” slide?
And also, since my drawer will be inset, do I still get the full extension, or really is the extension cut short the thickness of my face? Do these slides have “overtravel?”

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Wdwerker

333 posts in 890 days


#13 posted 12-09-2012 04:13 PM

You will have to mount the slides in from the front edge of your face frame about 7/8”. The slide will travel just a tiny bit more than the front end of the slide , so when inset mounted the back edge of the drawer will be inside your face frame. You should still have full access to the contents of the drawer. Get the template and drill bits! Install is much more accurate with them.
There are left and right locking devices that mount on the underside of the drawer box, they are sold seperatly. A depth adjustable version is available to allow you to fine tune the inset front to be perfectly flush, they cost more than the regular ones.
Wholesale the slides come in a package of 6 slides, by the time you add locking devices they cost me $168 or $28 a pair. If you can buy them in single pairs someone is breaking a box and marking them up to a higher price.
There are also heavy duty versions but I haven’t used them.
And yes, use a 21” slide I just did the math. Get your slides, build a mock up , install a set, then build your drawers.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

View dgage's profile

dgage

31 posts in 1627 days


#14 posted 12-10-2012 02:50 AM

To try to answer some of your questions:
  • The Blums do not have over travel
  • The 21” is what they make for standard 24” cabinets
  • I think with an inset drawer, you will lose the thickness of your drawer front unless you notch your drawer front some so that the lever attachments are actually attached to the drawer front.

In my kitchen I have some big drawers that I’m building including one 36” wide by 30” deep. I am using 1/4” for the drawer bottom to maximize drawer space inside and then I’m using the 1/2” space in the middle of the drawer to put some reinforcement. The 1/2” depth requirement is only needed for the edges where the drawer attaches to the rails. That leaves the rest of the interior empty or in my case, I put 1/2” reinforcement at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 drawer width. So I get to use cheaper 1/4” ply, gain a 1/4” of interior drawer space vs 1/2” bottom, and still have a strong drawer due to reinforcement. The empty space I’m referring to is circled red in the diagram above.

Also, between the Accurides and Blum, I like the Tandems better.

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