Pocket Hole Setup Question

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Forum topic by Ben posted 12-08-2012 04:01 AM 1406 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Ben's profile


376 posts in 2883 days

12-08-2012 04:01 AM

This is maybe a silly question:

I have the Kreg Jig and am connecting 3/4” material. I set up the stop collar to the gauge for 3/4”.
But when I drill the hole, it doesn’t poke out of the end grain. Is it supposed to?

I used a friend’s older jig and set up the same way it always poked out the end grain.

It seems like my screws are exiting a little lower then center. I split a piece of Cherry today and am a bit concerned. It might just be because I used a coarse thread screw.
But I want to make sure I am setting this up correctly as I have a lot of face frame to join.


6 replies so far

View Lifesaver2000's profile


551 posts in 3138 days

#1 posted 12-08-2012 04:25 AM

I have the K4, and the holes do not come out of the end of the board.

Try this. With the jig and bit set up correctly, put the bit in the jig without a board in place. You will see that the end of the bit does not touch the bottom of the jig. In order for the hole to exit the wood, the bit would have to be drilling into the bottom of your jig.

I am not familiar with any other pocket hole jig or models, as the K4 is my first one and I haven’t really even used it much. I wouldn’t doubt that there are others out there that work by drilling all the way through.

View BenI's profile


333 posts in 2205 days

#2 posted 12-08-2012 06:28 AM

+1 what Lifesaver said.

With my Kreg Jig (the cheaper starter kit at least) for 3/4” material, the front of the jig should be flush with the edge of the board that the screws with be going thru. You should NOT see the exit hole after drilling with the jig. The screws are self tapping and will drill their own hole as you drive the screws.

-- Ben from IL

View casual1carpenter's profile


354 posts in 2502 days

#3 posted 12-08-2012 04:06 PM

Seems to me I remember reading that a us nickel approx 1/8” could be used to set the gap between the base of the jig, where the wood sits, and the step drill tips point, should get you close. Try in similar dimensioned material to insure that the point does not come out. It is my understanding that they do not want the drill to pierce the material one because it would drill the jig and two it could raise a ‘dimple’ on the contact surface. Remember that the step bits drill depth is related to the screw length.

View Jonathan's profile


2608 posts in 3077 days

#4 posted 12-08-2012 04:38 PM

+2 to Lifesaver2000. The bit should not exit the drilled piece of stock, if setup correctly. Also use a fine threaded screw for cherry. I also have the K4.

I’m not sure if you’re using a drill to put in the screws, or a screwdriver? I have had wood split on me before using a drill. I’ve found that for me, it works best to set your drill on a very low torque setting, then tighten the screws by hand with a screwdriver until it’s tight. You may also want to tighten in stages using this method. Tighten all the screws a bit, then go back through and tighten them a little more. Using a screwdriver will also allow you to have better control, as you’ll be able to instantly stop tightening if things begin to either feel or sound like you’ve gone far enough with your tightening efforts, if that makes sense.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View kizerpea's profile


774 posts in 2394 days

#5 posted 12-08-2012 07:51 PM

ITs the screw….coarse for softwood…fine for hardwood been there …done that


View Ben's profile


376 posts in 2883 days

#6 posted 12-09-2012 01:26 AM

Thanks All.
Switching to fine threads did indeed solve my problem.

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