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| Forum topic by Elizabeth | posted 196 days ago | 978 views | 0 times favorited | 24 replies | ![]() |
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196 days ago |
Hi all, I may need to cut some acrylic sheets (aka Plexiglas, etc) for a furniture/modification project and I am wondering what type of blade I should get to ensure a smooth finish. I have a Sawstop; as far as I know I don’t have to bypass the safety features to cut, this since it’s nonconductive, but please correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks! (Edited to remove reference to Lexan, which is a different substance!) |
24 replies so far
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#1 posted 196 days ago |
Can’t comment on the sawstop issue. I cut plexiglass with my regular Frued combo blade and get a nice smooth cut. -- Visualize whirled peas |
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#2 posted 196 days ago |
Doesnt the plexiglass melt onto the blade? -- My terrible signature... |
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#3 posted 196 days ago |
Cannot comment on the sawstop either but have cut it on a few saws.Slow feed rate and you will be fine. -- They just don't get my chub on.-Bertha on modern handplanes |
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#4 posted 196 days ago |
Nope. At least not in my experience. I just feed it like I would a piece of 1/8 in. plywood and it seems to work fine. -- Visualize whirled peas |
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#5 posted 196 days ago |
no prob. go slow there will be build up of melted Plexiglas under plex. so watch for it. carb. blade is ok. If the edges need to be clear dust them with a torch But be careful !! -- Al, South E. Az., But it's a dry heat. |
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#6 posted 196 days ago |
The blade doesn’t matter too much, as long as it’s sharp. You’ll still have to sand the edges to get them smoooooth. A small amount will “melt” onto the blade but will also pop right off. -- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"! |
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#7 posted 196 days ago |
Most people I know use a fine tooth blade turned around so it runs backwards. I would also apply some masking tape on the cut line. This will help eliminate chipping. Make sure the plastic is held down tightly to the table and use a zero clearance insert. Another way would be to sandwich the plastic between two thin pieces of plywood and feed slowly. |
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#8 posted 196 days ago |
I cut lexan with a normal Freud blade, but in an abundance of caution I do it in two passes to prevent shattering. I raise blade height to half the thickness of the lexan, cut one side, then flip the workpiece and finish the other. -- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11. |
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#9 posted 196 days ago |
That’s a good idea, Dan. MrRon, I don’t have a zero clearance insert, but I could sandwich the plastic. Or maybe it’s time to get a zero clearance insert… |
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#10 posted 196 days ago |
Make sure your plexi is “cast.” otherwise it will melt on the blade. |
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#11 posted 196 days ago |
Oh yeah, I also use a ZCI. -- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11. |
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#12 posted 196 days ago |
I cut Plexiglas with my Forrest Woodworker II blade all the time. It does not melt the plex the but the chips are full of static and stick everywhere. I have cut plex with other blades that required a score cut before a complete cut to eliminate chip out but my Forrest blade doesn’t require that! Using my Forrest blade leaves the edges smooth enough that a progression of sandpaper to 400 W/D paper will clear them up. If I want it super clear edge I use the polishing compound Novus in its various grades! -- "I never met a board I didn't like!" |
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#13 posted 196 days ago |
You have to be very careful cutting Plexiglas /Lexan on a TS. -- Bert |
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#14 posted 196 days ago |
Good to know, Bert, thanks – I’ll wear one! |
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#15 posted 196 days ago |
I hope you don’t have to cut a lot of that stuff, its toxic as heck. I’d use a plain old steel panel blade. Something with like 180 teeth cuts great and less risk of fracture. If its thicker than about 3/4 inch I’d go with a Freud thin kerf rip blade. I’ve cut this stuff before and it’s not fun. Be sure to wear a face shield. -- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy. |
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