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New Old Table Saw - Grizzly G1022

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Forum topic by Bill Hall posted 08-22-2008 09:28 PM 22200 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


08-22-2008 09:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw

So, I just skipped out of work for an hour to pick up a Grizzly G1022 contractor table saw. Hey, I eat lunch at my desk. Anyway, I paid $100. I think I got a great deal. What do you think?

So, does anyone have any experience with this saw? Likes? Dislikes? Suggestions for upgrades/maintenance? I’ve only ever owned and used my Crapsman benchtop saw.

Happy Friday!

-- http://www.tenoclockwoodworks.com


32 replies so far

View edp's profile

edp

109 posts in 2612 days


#1 posted 08-23-2008 04:24 AM

This will be a great step up for you though you may not be very happy with the stock fence. That is probably the second thing for you to update. The first thing is to change to a segmented belt. That will really smooth out the operation.

-- Come on in, the beer is cold and the wood is dry. www.crookedlittletree.com

View Bill Hall's profile

Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


#2 posted 08-26-2008 08:24 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I’m definitely going to get a segmented belt after I get this bugger set up and running. Any suggestions on a fence upgrade?

-- http://www.tenoclockwoodworks.com

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1852 posts in 2212 days


#3 posted 08-27-2008 02:29 AM

Suggest one of the first things to do is check the alignment of the saw blade to the miter slot. A dime to a donut is that it is off. Check this website for good information on how to get it right: ts-aligner.com. Also there is a product called PALS which replace the rear trunnion bolts that really help getting the alignment without all kinds of trial and error. Check in-lineindustries.com. On my saw, I had to turn it upside down, take it all apart to enlarge the trunnion mounting holes (with a file) because there wasn’t enough slop to get it adjusted. BTW – you should align the blade both at 90 degrees and 45 degrees with the belt installed and tensioned. If you align it with the belt off, the alignment will change when you put the belt on.

-- Joe

View marcb's profile

marcb

762 posts in 2324 days


#4 posted 08-27-2008 09:10 AM

First thing I suggest is skipping the $40 linked belt and buying a $7 Gates Hi-Power. Trust me. Put the other 30+ into the fence or the new blade.

View Bill Hall's profile

Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


#5 posted 08-27-2008 03:25 PM

Wow, Marc you’re the first person to recommend against the linked belt. What experience have you had with them that would make you shy away?

ajosephg, thanks for all the links. I will definitely be giving them a look. I checked the alignment of the blade to the miter slot and was surprised to find it was square front to back. Granted, I only used a steel rule on the metric side with the same tooth on the front and back.

-- http://www.tenoclockwoodworks.com

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1852 posts in 2212 days


#6 posted 08-27-2008 03:47 PM

For years and years I used various techniques to check alignment including steel rules, dial calipers, strips of wood clamped together, combination squares etc. As my skill level (bad as it is) increased I never was confident that the thing was accurate based on the way things fit – such as miter joints. Finally bought a dial indicator a month or so ago (0.001 resolution) and made a simple jig to be able to be able to make measurements off the miter slot and voila – the blade was off by 0.010. As I mentioned in the previousl post I never was able to get it better than 0.005 until I modified the trunnions and installed the PALs. (One of the problems was that I couldn’t keep it aligned no matter what techniques I tried when the mounting bolts were tightened.) Since then I have bought a reference square and TS-Alignment Jr from Edward Bennett company which really helps with making the measurements without all the “messing” around.

Guess what – my combination “square” is not square, my framing “square” is not even close to being square. Unbelieveably my cheapo rafter square was dead on as well as a cheap Stanley 6 inch square.

-- Joe

View Bill Hall's profile

Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


#7 posted 08-27-2008 04:35 PM

Here’s a pic of the saw finally assembled and cleaned. I’m still working on getting all the stains off the top. It was black when I got it.

Grizzly G1022

-- http://www.tenoclockwoodworks.com

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 2537 days


#8 posted 08-27-2008 05:21 PM

Sounds like you got a nice saw sure hope the upgrades don’t break the bank.

marcb: Thanks for the tip on the belt, $7 Gates Hi-Power.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View Bill Hall's profile

Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


#9 posted 08-27-2008 05:56 PM

The fence on this is WAY better than what was on my benchtop. It’ll probably be a long while before I consider upgrading unless I find a super deal. I’ll probably just upgrade the saw in the future.

marcb: Where do you purchase your Hi-Power belts?

-- http://www.tenoclockwoodworks.com

View motthunter's profile

motthunter

2141 posts in 2450 days


#10 posted 08-27-2008 06:06 PM

The fence should be fine. I have a grizzly cabinet saw and the fence on it is always on. I never need to adjustit at all.

This was a great buy for you. Use this upgrade to make beautiful things. I wish you luck.

-- making sawdust....

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

891 posts in 2264 days


#11 posted 08-27-2008 08:30 PM

For $100, great deal!

Not sure I would worry about that fence! While looking for replacement fences for my Craftsman saw, this style was one I thought of buying. It is similar to Delta/Rockwell designs that show up on e-bay. I used a friend’s on his old Rockwell table saw and saw nothing wrong with it. Beisemeier fences are vastly overrated and vastly overpriced!

Link belts are also overrated and overpriced. My 40+ year-old saw still runs on the original V-belt and passes the nickel test. If you have a good quality V-belt (I’ll keep that Gates Hi-power in mind) they won’t take a set that causes vibration when they sit for long periods of time.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Bill Hall's profile

Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


#12 posted 08-27-2008 08:36 PM

View marcb's profile

marcb

762 posts in 2324 days


#13 posted 08-27-2008 08:59 PM

What experience have I had? I spent the money on one and it didn’t do anything more than a cheap Gates belt. Note Gates is different from the cheap OEM ones and what you get at Ace Hardware or something, but its still inexpensive.

If you are sold on using a link belt I got one I’ll sell you for half off.

RockAuto Parts (http://www.rockauto.com/) sells them for between 5 and 7 dollars. For a saw get an AX series, they’re cogged and do better with the smaller pulleys. Just click on Part number search, select Gates as the supplier and type in AX## where ## is the ID of the belt (note that 4L is the OD so if you use a 4L46 you want a AX44)

The only thing inherent in the link belts which helps control vibration is the lack of memory (it won’t permanently deform if left on) which the material used by Gates and other good belts doesn’t have an issue with.

The hard sides of the link belt on the other hand gives you a higher potential for slippage if you have your belt properly tightened to not stress the motor.

View marcb's profile

marcb

762 posts in 2324 days


#14 posted 08-27-2008 09:01 PM

Nickel test – can you balance a nickel on its edge and start the saw and let the saw run with out the nickel becoming unbalanced.

I use a gates belt with machined pulleys and I can CUT with 3 or 4 nickels balanced.

I’m anti snake oil, so you’ll see me in a band saw thread about “cool blocks” too ;)

View Bill Hall's profile

Bill Hall

166 posts in 2517 days


#15 posted 08-27-2008 09:09 PM

marcb, Thank you very much for that info. I love to hear that kind of first-hand experience with a given product. I think I’ll be investing $7.05 in my saw very soon. Thanks also for the links and part numbers for rockauto.

-- http://www.tenoclockwoodworks.com

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