New Old Table Saw - Grizzly G1022

This will be a great step up for you though you may not be very happy with the stock fence. That is probably the second thing for you to update. The first thing is to change to a segmented belt. That will really smooth out the operation.

-- Come on in, the beer is cold and the wood is dry. www.crookedlittletree.com

Thanks for the feedback. I’m definitely going to get a segmented belt after I get this bugger set up and running. Any suggestions on a fence upgrade?

biesmeier…..................

-- hey honey! watch this!

Suggest one of the first things to do is check the alignment of the saw blade to the miter slot. A dime to a donut is that it is off. Check this website for good information on how to get it right: ts-aligner.com. Also there is a product called PALS which replace the rear trunnion bolts that really help getting the alignment without all kinds of trial and error. Check in-lineindustries.com. On my saw, I had to turn it upside down, take it all apart to enlarge the trunnion mounting holes (with a file) because there wasn’t enough slop to get it adjusted. BTW – you should align the blade both at 90 degrees and 45 degrees with the belt installed and tensioned. If you align it with the belt off, the alignment will change when you put the belt on.

-- Joe

First thing I suggest is skipping the $40 linked belt and buying a $7 Gates Hi-Power. Trust me. Put the other 30+ into the fence or the new blade.

Wow, Marc you’re the first person to recommend against the linked belt. What experience have you had with them that would make you shy away?

ajosephg, thanks for all the links. I will definitely be giving them a look. I checked the alignment of the blade to the miter slot and was surprised to find it was square front to back. Granted, I only used a steel rule on the metric side with the same tooth on the front and back.

For years and years I used various techniques to check alignment including steel rules, dial calipers, strips of wood clamped together, combination squares etc. As my skill level (bad as it is) increased I never was confident that the thing was accurate based on the way things fit – such as miter joints. Finally bought a dial indicator a month or so ago (0.001 resolution) and made a simple jig to be able to be able to make measurements off the miter slot and voila – the blade was off by 0.010. As I mentioned in the previousl post I never was able to get it better than 0.005 until I modified the trunnions and installed the PALs. (One of the problems was that I couldn’t keep it aligned no matter what techniques I tried when the mounting bolts were tightened.) Since then I have bought a reference square and TS-Alignment Jr from Edward Bennett company which really helps with making the measurements without all the “messing” around.

Guess what – my combination “square” is not square, my framing “square” is not even close to being square. Unbelieveably my cheapo rafter square was dead on as well as a cheap Stanley 6 inch square.

-- Joe

Here’s a pic of the saw finally assembled and cleaned. I’m still working on getting all the stains off the top. It was black when I got it.

I wouldnt change a thing. that fence is plenty servicable. tune it up and use it! :-] at 100 buck its a gloat as is.

skeez

-- hey honey! watch this!

Sounds like you got a nice saw sure hope the upgrades don’t break the bank.

marcb: Thanks for the tip on the belt, $7 Gates Hi-Power.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

The fence on this is WAY better than what was on my benchtop. It’ll probably be a long while before I consider upgrading unless I find a super deal. I’ll probably just upgrade the saw in the future.

marcb: Where do you purchase your Hi-Power belts?

The fence should be fine. I have a grizzly cabinet saw and the fence on it is always on. I never need to adjustit at all.

This was a great buy for you. Use this upgrade to make beautiful things. I wish you luck.

-- making sawdust....

For $100, great deal!

Not sure I would worry about that fence! While looking for replacement fences for my Craftsman saw, this style was one I thought of buying. It is similar to Delta/Rockwell designs that show up on e-bay. I used a friend’s on his old Rockwell table saw and saw nothing wrong with it. Beisemeier fences are vastly overrated and vastly overpriced!

Link belts are also overrated and overpriced. My 40+ year-old saw still runs on the original V-belt and passes the nickel test. If you have a good quality V-belt (I’ll keep that Gates Hi-power in mind) they won’t take a set that causes vibration when they sit for long periods of time.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

Nickel test?

What experience have I had? I spent the money on one and it didn’t do anything more than a cheap Gates belt. Note Gates is different from the cheap OEM ones and what you get at Ace Hardware or something, but its still inexpensive.

If you are sold on using a link belt I got one I’ll sell you for half off.

RockAuto Parts (http://www.rockauto.com/) sells them for between 5 and 7 dollars. For a saw get an AX series, they’re cogged and do better with the smaller pulleys. Just click on Part number search, select Gates as the supplier and type in AX## where ## is the ID of the belt (note that 4L is the OD so if you use a 4L46 you want a AX44)

The only thing inherent in the link belts which helps control vibration is the lack of memory (it won’t permanently deform if left on) which the material used by Gates and other good belts doesn’t have an issue with.

The hard sides of the link belt on the other hand gives you a higher potential for slippage if you have your belt properly tightened to not stress the motor.

Nickel test – can you balance a nickel on its edge and start the saw and let the saw run with out the nickel becoming unbalanced.

I use a gates belt with machined pulleys and I can CUT with 3 or 4 nickels balanced.

I’m anti snake oil, so you’ll see me in a band saw thread about “cool blocks” too ;)

marcb, Thank you very much for that info. I love to hear that kind of first-hand experience with a given product. I think I’ll be investing $7.05 in my saw very soon. Thanks also for the links and part numbers for rockauto.

Bill – that’s a nice find, and a great saw at an excellent price. – Enjoy the prize!

marcb – thanx for sharing the Gates belt info – nice to see there are other alternatives out there of equal quality at better pricing! especially when you provide first hand experience – that is priceless.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Purplev,

No problem. I’ve personally been taken by more than one tool snake oil. I’ve become a bit bitter. Link belts, cool blocks, “detensioning” etc. Get me worked up.

marcb -hahaha… probably sending you to the IWF wouldn’t be such a great idea huh? lol

either way – it’s refreshing to hear a different point of view – something we sometimes don’t have enough of.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

marcb – I couldn’t agree more. Too much snake oil. Link belts are a particular pet peeve of mine. It always seemed (to me, anyway) to be a solution to problems caused by buying the cheapest shit belt in the first place – but they cost more than the most expensive V-belts that I ever bought! Let anyone mention table saw fences and see how many Beisemeyer plugs you get. While researching a replacement fence for my saw I used one personally on a friend’s saw and I just wasn’t that impressed with it. I ended up with a used Ridgid AC1036 that I am much happier with.

I see you also filled out my comments about belt set and the nickel test – I was under the gun at work again and haven’t been to the site for a while.

And snake oil isn’t just in the tool trade. Another love of mine is audio equipment – try “oxygen-free” speaker cables (“allow ample break in time” – right!), $500 wooden volume knobs and >$1000 power cords that so-called audiophiles rave about!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

Oh man, some of the audio phile stuff I’ve seen out there is outrageous.

I’ve never used a Beisemeyer so I can’t recommend fences. I use a Delta T2 and while its nice, the slight curve to the aluminum faces sometimes gets to me. I think it can be swapped out and I’m thinking of jointing up a nice piece of hard maple or a piece of MDF which I guess makes it more like the Bies pic’s I’ve seen.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I just got the same deal on the same saw over CL. I upgraded the fence to a Delta T2. I haven’t had a chance to use it yet but I can already tell that it was worth the price of the upgrade, slides across the top smooth as butter. I had the same problem getting the blade at 90 degrees to the top. I started to do the file thing but I quickly realized that it was not a great solution. I chose to take add a shim to the inside of one of the steel shafts (sorry don’t know what it is called) that links connects the truneons together. That put me close enough to set it up square. Seems like a great saw but taking it apart to adjust the blade to table really stunk. Anyway, mine is cleaned up and sprayed down with T-9 and ready to get an application of Ren. Wax. Can’t wait to try it. I will upgrade the belt after reading this…thanks.

The 2 bars must be made parallel. You can usually get this by loosening the bolts and twisting them around. I had a pdf but can’t seem to find it. It was from Delta.

So, I don’t know anything about belts. My current belt says A 44 on it. I looked up A 44 v-belts on google and got back results for a variety of belts with a similar number that are 46”. Can I safely assume my belt is 46”?

Yes and is an A44 so if you order one of the above mentioned gates you can get an AX44.

I had that same saw, only the fence was cheaper, had it 10 years and no troble, then I sold it for 100.00 and replaced it with a grizzly cabinet saw with a shop fox fence, their top of the line. I have never been happer.I have all but 2 grizzly tools and 1 of them will be replaced the next time it breaks down, It is a delta jointer, one of there cheap models
Chuck

-- Chuck, wiswood2 www.wisconsinwoodchuck.com