Shelf design

What do you mean by hanging shelves? If your worried about them sagging I’d suggest doing a piece across the front which will make it much stronger.

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

Double it up. Make ‘em 1” thick and hope for the best. Even on 16” centers, 1/2” OSB will sag under heavier loads.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

You could make a frame with 2×4s and then use the USB for the shelving. I don’t have a link, but that’s where my head went. If you want them off the ground, you could use some of the lumber rack designs, which are essentially heavy brackets, and run the MDF across them….

My 2 cents worth.

S

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

I have a lumber rack in my projects. I used the design from wood whisperer. The long lag bolts to attach the uprights into the studs weren’t cheap though. You could make something like that, and then run the mdf across as shelves.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

Thanks for the thoughts – Hanging shelves would basically mean off the floor.

-- Dave in Minnesota - If it ain't broke, improve it!

I wouldn’t use osb for the reason mentioned above, it sags too much!

John

-- John -- Racine, WI -- Woodworking..."It's not just a Hobby, it's an Adventure"

If you are determined to use the OSB up on this project, maybe you should make it with a face frame. You could put a solid back on it that will take fasteners for hanging – with a piece underneath the unit attached to the wall so it can sit on it and take the weight. Use a 2×1 lipping for the front of the shelves to stiffen them up, put dividers in so you don’t have long spans which will sag under the weight, screw/glue on 3/4×3/4 supports inside the carcase around the sides and back and screw/glue the shelves to that. Shouldn’t give you any problems.

-- Do or do not, there is no try

Renners- exactly what I was thinking -this will work to hold small items. The heavy machine parts that I have are already on the steel shelves that are in place. Thanks for your thoughts.

-- Dave in Minnesota - If it ain't broke, improve it!

For 1/2 inch osb shelves up to 10 inches wide and 48 inches long with 2 corbels. The more wight you use on the shelf the wider you want to make the front support…usually up to 2 inches for this width and length self.
Put a corbel on each end.

-- Bruce http://plans.testsitem3.info http://www.sawmillgirls.com

Problem is you offset the cost of buying 3/4 mdf or plywood by buying material to beef up the OSB. I’d just use another material and save the OSB for later. If you’re intent on using it doubling it up and putting a 1X2 across the front will probably suffice.

I hate OSB for anything other than verticle “paneling” that will never get seen

I have used 7/16 for shelving many times. For the garage I cut it 16” wide screw a 2×3 to the wall studs and make a face frame of 2×3. the openings are 16” tall and the uprights are 48 oc. the osb making the shelf is screwed to the 2x at the wall and th3 horizontals of the face frame and they do just fine. Most of the stuff I store in totes so the bottom of the tote actually carries the span load but I have had one opening with four 2 hp motors in it for three years. that one opening has only sagged 1/4” front to back the rest are still flat.

Hey,

Thanks for all the good ideas. I have about six full sheets of OSB and about 20-30 1×2s along with some other 1.5” pine. I see no reason that, with proper support, OSB can’t be used for the shelving material. I really don’t want to go out and buy more material – especially with all the stuff I currently have. It is a matter of using the material that I have on hand in an appropriate manner. Thanks for all the good ideas. If there is anything else out there, please feel free to let me know. I will post photos once finished. I am hurrying to get heat out in the workshop before it gets too cold to trench.

Thanks again!

-- Dave in Minnesota - If it ain't broke, improve it!