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Is 1/3 ea Boiled linseed oil/Poly/MS ok for sealing exposed edges of Mdf?

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Forum topic by ndbuck posted 102 days ago 199 views 1 time favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites
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ndbuck

9 posts in 126 days


102 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question mdf sealing

As a newbie, I love this “Church” i.e lumberjocks but, I don’t know if I am in the right “Pew” for this question. forgive me if it isn’t.

I have never used mdf before.

I recently bought a commercial Router table Top. It is made of 1 1/8 mdf. The fence system subfences are made of mdf as well. The top and bottom surfaces of the table top are laminate, as are the faces of the subfences.

There are numerous t-track and miter guage tracks inlaid (in routed grooves in the mdf) into the table surface and the subfence surfaces. The ends and tops/bottoms of the subfences are “Raw” mdf as well. There is a routed out recess for a mounting plate insert. The edge(s) of The table proper are covered by a resiliant (sp) material that appears to be glued on.

While somebody has told me I don’t have to worry about it—with mdf—I was unwilling leave all of this raw mdf unsealed against humidity changes / moisture absorbtion.

I removed all t-tracks and using the BlO/Poly/Mineral spirit mix saturated all raw mdf. I used the mix because I wanted the sealant to be thin for penetration (wow, did the mdf soak that stuff up). I did this over the course of an hour or so yesterday (Using a brush I just went round robin keepng the surfaces wet for about four passes over everything. I let the above application dry over night, and put an additional coat on today.

Is this enough? Did I use the wrong appproach? Should I wait for several day before reassemblying to let the BLO cure.

Should I wait several days and then put a coat of straight Poly on?

Any input would be appreciated.

-- Nelson

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tenontim

960 posts in 281 days


102 days ago

I use mdf a lot for steam bending forms, jigs of various types and patterns. I’ve found the best thing to seal them with is shellac. I usually put 2 or 3 coats on with a brush and even my steam bending forms are still like the day I made them. Since you’ve already put the oil varnish mix on, it should provide the protection you need. It won’t hurt to final coat with straight poly.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

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BeechPilotBarry

410 posts in 239 days


102 days ago

I think it’ll work fine. The goal is to simply seal the cut edges, and that’s done!

-- - Real men read directions

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Joey

229 posts in 352 days


101 days ago

sand it and use straight poly. I use the mixture your talking about. it’s great for bringing out the grain in wood and give it a warm look. but minieral spirits thins the poly and takes more coats to build up.
poly builds faster, Remember MDF is basically compressed paper, that’s why it soaks it up so fast. Gloss poly will seal it pretty good and then build up.
My work bench has a built up mdf top. 3 layers 2 1/4 inch thick and it’s coated with gloss poly

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

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