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Bandsaw Resawing help please

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Forum topic by Rob posted 11-28-2012 12:12 AM 2414 views 2 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rob

122 posts in 1673 days


11-28-2012 12:12 AM

I recently purchased a Craftsman BAS350 14” bandsaw with a 1hp motor. So far I like it. Thank you Stumpy for the opinion of the saw you gave in a different thread. I had never done any resawing so I bought a 1/2” blade that has 3 teeth per inch and thought I would give it a whirl. I had two 6” x 10” x 3/4” pieces of Hickory laying around so I thought I’d slice them in half for my first attempt. I used some scrap plywood to test for and compensate for drift and when I had that figured out and my fence set properly I began cutting. After the blade was in the wood about an inch or so, I could feel the board wanting to jump around a bit but I was able to hold it steady. I guess a better explanation would be that it felt like the blade was catching on the wood digging in, not digging in and so on. My feed rate was very slow. about an inch every 5-6 seconds. If I went any faster, the blade would actually stop until I pulled the board back slightly. When I finally made it through the wood, the cut was actually quite nice but from everything I’ve read or seen in videos about resawing, something isn’t right. I rechecked the blade tension and the deflection was a little less than a quarter inch and pinged so I’m pretty sure that wasn’t the issue. I can’t imagine the feed rate was too fast. It took almost a full minute to go through 10” of Hickory. Then I thought that maybe the saw speed was wrong. The BAS350 has two speeds, 1620 and 3340 and it was set at 1620. So is what I felt normal when resawing and should a blade actually stop with a slow feed rate like it did? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!


12 replies so far

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 963 days


#1 posted 11-28-2012 12:27 AM

Hey!

My bandsaw does the exact same thing. Small bandsaws can’t do that kind of work. Benchtop bandsaw’s are great for making a quick cut, or just doing small rip cuts. But they don’t do a very good job resawing.

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

View bullhead1's profile

bullhead1

228 posts in 935 days


#2 posted 11-28-2012 01:07 AM

I resaw wood once in a while and have come to the realization it takes longer than you think. You are also resawing wood that is one of the hardest and toughest on your blade and equipment. The thing I always keep in mind when I resaw is that I get two or more boards out of one and the minute it takes saves way more money than buying two or three boards.

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

811 posts in 797 days


#3 posted 11-28-2012 01:11 AM

I had the 12” craftsman bandsaw. It works great as a place for dust to settle or as a paper weight. As a bandsaw I ended up replacing it with a 17” Grizzly.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3169 posts in 2509 days


#4 posted 11-28-2012 01:22 AM

Just a note as to be care as not to pinch the board shut once the cut is pass the blade this will not allow the saw dust to escape causing the blade to bind up also causing a reduction of power.

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3032 posts in 1173 days


#5 posted 11-28-2012 01:28 AM

I have an old craftsman 12” BS with a 1 1/8HP motor. I use Olson 1/2” 3TPI for resawing including Bois DeArc up to 6” thick.
I think you have two problems, maybe three. The drive belt from motor to pulley may not be tight enough. The pulley speed is definitely too slow, set it for as fast as it will go and leave it there. The tension may look correct, but it will fool ya, tighten it up some more, if the blade is stopping but the motor isn’t, the blade is either slipping on the tires or the drive belt is slipping on the pulley.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1737 days


#6 posted 11-28-2012 01:49 AM

Rob,

Go to Fine Woodworking’s site and look up the article “Five Tips for Better Bandsawing” by Michael Fortune in the Nov/Dec 2004 issue and read it. Then do word for word what he says. Forget everything you ever heard about drift, tension and all the other stuff about bandsaws. Pay attention to every word he says and your problems will disappear forever. It takes a membership to read it, but they give you a free 2 week trial. If that’s too much trouble, pm me with your e-mail and I’ll send you the pdf.

Now your immediate situation: First, you probably dulled your blade resawing plywood. The glue is awfully hard. All is not lost, however. They don’t last forever but are a cinch to resharpen. Check here and read EVERYTHING ON THIS SITE—http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/sharpening.html or here for a simpler way if you have a Dremel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_akVVJo3G0M&feature=related

Bandsaw blades are surprisingly short-lived. Sharpening is easy. The other thing, hickory is really hard and what you describe is EXACTLY what happens with a dull blade. Sharpen it and it will last a long time. Here’s another one and the one I use most http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guhPJKuzER8&feature=related

You can resaw 6” hickory on your saw, but you will have to either buy blades by the dozen, or learn to sharpen. The info here is good stuff and will help, if you use it. I had worlds of trouble with mine at first and the Fortune article changed my life.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Dave G's profile

Dave G

176 posts in 734 days


#7 posted 11-28-2012 01:51 AM

Sorry I’m with Jesse. I wouldn’t wish one of those little bandsaws on an enemy. The blades keep jumping off! I put my little bandsaw out on the curb for somebody to take and bought a 14” Grizzly. Resaws well. I’ve done quite a bit of oak and maple resawing. There are tool reviews out there and the acid test is usually a resaw comparison. Spent about what I would for a table saw and it was worth it.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/band-saws/deluxe-bandsaws-models/

-- Dave, New England - “We are made to persist. that's how we find out who we are.” ― Tobias Wolff

View toolie's profile

toolie

1768 posts in 1315 days


#8 posted 11-28-2012 02:11 AM

i think dallas is on the right track. that’s a nice little BS built by the same company that produces rikons. that slow speed is for cutting non-ferrous metals. move to the faster speed, check the drive belt tension and if that’s the OEM blade you’re using, get a good 3 tpi .025” lennox blade from iturra design.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11226 posts in 1376 days


#9 posted 11-28-2012 03:28 AM

Dallas’ advice is spot on for the saw you have. I would use a single point resaw fence and follow a line rather than using your fence like the one on a tablesaw.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3278 posts in 860 days


#10 posted 11-28-2012 03:26 PM

You should have checked your speed and feed charts for the proper cutting rates.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Rob's profile

Rob

122 posts in 1673 days


#11 posted 11-28-2012 05:22 PM

blackcherry, I will keep that in mind when I resaw again but the blade was only an inch into the wood so it wasn’t pinching that caused the blade to stop

bullhead, that’s a good piece of advice about it being worth the time to get two or more boards out of one rather than buying more boards!

AJ, I will try another type of hard wood and see if there’s any improvement.

Dallas, I will check the drive belt for proper tension and tighten the blade more. I didn’t think of the belt tension possibility! Thanks.

fussy (Steve), Thanks for the FWW info. I will check it out. I only went into the plywood about 5”. Just enough to see that I was cutting the line I drew straight so I could adjust the fence for the drift. If the brand new blade dulled after 5” in plywood, I would think that the blade I bought should be taken off the market. I have seen videos on how to sharpen blades and I admit it was a cheap blade that was purchased at Sears. I bought it just to try my hand at resawing. I will be buying a much better blade once I get the hang of it.

Dave and Jesse, I bought the Craftsman saw because it is very similar to the Rikon that isn’t produced any more and the reviews I read were favorable. The deciding factor was the recommendation that Stumpy gave regarding this saw and I trust his judgement.

Surfside, I don’t have a feed chart. I only read that it’s more of a feel type of thing. Is there a specific chart that will help me figure out the rates for different types of wood?

Thanks to all that have posted. I’m getting a crash course on resawing!

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3278 posts in 860 days


#12 posted 11-28-2012 07:24 PM

I’m not really sure though . Try checking these sites

http://www.vortextool.com/images/chipLoadChart.pdf and https://www.onsrud.com/plusdocs/Doc/index.html?model.code=FeedSpeeds

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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